Missouri Mountain East Ridge

[shizupple]

Really glad I found this old post. I'm doing Bel/Ox tomorrow and was thinking about Missouri. I'm going to descend down Elkhead pass after I tackle Oxford regardless and make the decision at the route junction for the standard route up Missouri if I want to continue on to Missouri or not. I’ll definitely be staying away from the East Ridge despite there being better ways to do it. It doesn’t seem like it really saves much time and sounds sketchy as h*ck.

[Jeremy_Kreis]

I just did all 3 of these, and Missouri can be done pretty safely from Elkhead Pass. If you hug the base of the cliffs on the left side, there is a very mellow gully that will get you around the worst part of the ridge. It is full of loose rock, but it is pretty stable as long as you keep your weight dispersed. I'm thinking about doing a trip report on it, because information on this route seems to be scarce and uninformative.

[Monster5]

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... ki=Include

[Scott P]

I just did all 3 of these, and Missouri can be done pretty safely from Elkhead Pass. If you hug the base of the cliffs on the left side, there is a very mellow gully that will get you around the worst part of the ridge. It is full of loose rock, but it is pretty stable as long as you keep your weight dispersed. I'm thinking about doing a trip report on it, because information on this route seems to be scarce and uninformative.

It sound like Jeremy's variation is different from the one in the report?

If so, such a TR would be very useful.

[Monster5]

TR mentioned in that TR.
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Somebody re-bumped this thread instead of starting yet another, which is great. There's tons of beta out there.

[Jeremy_Kreis]

I read both of those reports before I did it. They didn't leave me feeling confident about the route outside of avoiding the headwall. I'm pretty sure I was in a different gully than the second one you posted.

[shizupple]

TR mentioned in that TR.
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Somebody re-bumped this thread instead of starting yet another, which is great. There's tons of beta out there.

I was going to try to hit all 3 last weekend. After Bel/Ox, I dropped over Elkhead Pass to the junction of Missouri Mtn at 11:30. There were some somewhat sketchy clouds rolling in so I bailed and I'm not too disappointed with that decision. Long day regardless.

[herdbull]

I'm not sure why people are so freaked out over this route? Maybe they're just not "ready" for it.

I did this route 2 summers ago and really didn't mind it all that much.I actually swung a bit to the south once half way or so up the east ridge. If memory serves me correctly the rock got a little better but steeper. Just couldn't see putting on the extra distance to drop back down to the standard route and up vs. some fun class 4 climbing.

Whatever you do though don't tell people on the trail your plans as they may try it too and then come on 14ers.com and blast you to pieces for it

[goingup]

It is so crazy to think I posted this over three years ago. This was like my 3rd 14er and mountain ever or something like that and I had NO idea what I was doing. At the time descending that ridge was the scariest thing I had ever done in my life. I wonder what it would be like to go back and do it now that I have been in a random gully on Crestone Needle in the middle of winter.

[cale_scales86]

I just completed the east ridge yesterday 6/23, and it was spectacular! Sketchy, wild, adventurous, hazardous, life-threatening, extreme, dicey, rotten would all be words well put to describe this route via the eastern ridge of Missouri. I caution anyone who attempts this route! The route finding alone demands an expert mountaineering awareness, combined with some of the most exposed, loose, rotten and crumbing rock I have ever climbed on. With that said, if you are a experienced mountaineer with solid class 4 mountain experience, this route is for you. I would advise the use of helmets, one thing I didn’t do and regretted greatly. If there is any other party on the route, the potential for rock fall is incredible. In all cases where I passed parties and the rock fall potential was present, it would have been me kicking rocks on to other parties who were off route. Do not follow scree gully’s down anywhere. Stick to the ridge as much as you can, unless the danger of fall/class 5 climbing becomes apparent, then follow the clear path of least danger, but for the most part try to stick to the stable and more soild ridge line. I went west to east, leaving the summit of Missouri to get Belford as well. A lot of risky, sloppy down climbing in places. East to west would be a lot safer in the climbing, but more demanding with route finding. I saw potential for solid class 5 climbing if you brought protection, experience, and confidence, but still, loose rock everywhere. Final warning: don’t bring anyone not confident in their ability; don’t bring your inexperienced friends. I saw 4 parties doing the route, and 2 looked like they were in serious trouble with route finding. They were down climbing scree gully’s to exit the ridge, adding miles on to the trip, and maximizing rock fall hazard potential. Be careful. Be safe. Get extreme. Have fun.

[MileHighAMC]

I tried to descend Missouri Mountain East Ridge. We had to quit. It was a terrifying experience! I am happy to have survived.

[MileHighAMC]

I did this exact same thing. It sounds like you are telling my story. This was the scariest experience of my life. Do not try this route! Be warned! I’m so thankful we all made it out alive. Be safe!