Capitol Conditions

[jared_j]

Thinking about doing the standard route. My intuition is that the ridge looks like a lot of other ridge routes right now, with some snow but rock mostly bare. Anyone have beta or reason for me to think this is not accurate? To appease the karma gods I promise to post a conditions report or TR in exchange for this beta solicitation if I end up heading out there.

[forbins_mtn]

Be careful, man. I know there hasn't been condition or trip reports for Cap in a while but there are very recent reports of the Bells and Snowmass. Plenty of snow up there. Going up there with assumptions of bare rock this year is a recipe for disaster. Plan for snow coverage and count any bare rock as a blessing and rest point

[BillMiddlebrook]

Be careful, man. I know there hasn't been condition or trip reports for Cap in a while but there are very recent reports of the Bells and Snowmass. Plenty of snow up there. Going up there with assumptions of bare rock this year is a recipe for disaster. Plan for snow coverage and count any bare rock as a blessing and rest point

+1
On Tuesday, snow high on Snowmass Mountain was bullet-proof early and greasy once the sun started cooking. Based on the aspect of Cap's standard route, I suspect you'll encounter similar conditions up high and the upper route will still have snow patches. Maybe you'll be lucky enough to find a reasonable line up through rock and not have to cross much snow, but I wouldn't count on it. So be prepared for some steep traversing on no-fall zone snow.

[myfeetrock]

Still snow from Daly to Capitol summit. Not as much as the pictures I posted 2 weeks ago, but it's there. I will get more pictures Saturday and post them when I get off work. http://14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43223" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[jared_j]

Thanks guys. My bigger concern was getting down, not up. I'm not too worried about steep snow going up early in the morning when things are firm, but more about coming back down the route later on when it is softening up. I'm gonna pass on this for this trip.

[Cool Hand Luke]

A friend and I climbed Capitol May 20th, 2012, and the down-climb was the hardest part. We made the summit around 11:30 AM and had to unexpectedly down-climb the ridge direct to K2 due to softening snow. A rope and webbing would have been helpful in two spots going down.

Capitol is known for solid rock, but in the snow-thaw cycle rockfall danger is often overlooked on the peak. From K2 we witnessed several softball size rocks let loose above the standard route. Luckily this was the only rockfall we heard; we took a 15-minute break on K2 to listen for more rockfall and decided if we heard another barrage we were turning around.

The soft snow also made the traverse back from K2 to Daly Saddle a nightmare. Our crampons were sliding and balling up, at one point I slid 15 ft before I could get my axe to purchase.

Climbing Capitol in snow is a rewarding experience and fun climb, but it is definitely not to be underestimated.

[jmanner]

Did anyone end up going up Capitol this weekend?

Partner and I had planned on climbing Capitol this weekend(June21/21). Curious to see what the conditions are like up there.

[JosephG]

From a distance, there appeared to be a fair amount of snow on Capitol's ridge. I'll see about uploading a picture tonight.

[jmanner]

From a distance, there appeared to be a fair amount of snow on Capitol's ridge. I'll see about uploading a picture tonight.

Yea couple of our 14er cohorts were on Snowmass yesterday and said there was plenty of snow on Cap... I am just wondering what the snow is like(first hand) from K2 on. Hate to go up there and find a cornice of doom on the top of the knife edge.

[jmanner]

bump...

[FireOnTheMountain]

What answer are you looking for exactly? That you dont need crampons, axes or snowshoes? I gurantee you will want the first 2 unless you are a 19yr old Candian sportin Reebox (joke starting to get old but not quite there yet).

If unsure, take your snowshoes and stash em if they become dead weight. You probably know that Cap is fairly serious so make sure you comfortable with traversing steep snow in no fall zones and the like.

Just get out there, have fun and be safe and be willing to learn. You know, that whole journey, not the final destination thing....

EDIT: The cornice of death you speak of will not be on the knife edge.

[jmanner]

EDIT: The cornice of death you speak of will not be on the knife edge.

That's my question, not all that other mess you projected on me.

Well, in regards to your dateless observation, folks(including my Cap climbing partner) were on Snowmass and saw snow all long the K2-Capitol ridge and I want to know if that was an illusion or if conditions are what they were like in spring of 11'. I like the snow climb aspect, otherwise I wouldn't be going back in spring.

Frankly, the "answer" I am looking for is this: 'I climbed Capitol on this day and the snow conditions were like this ____.' Considering all the Mount Elbert, Quandary, Shavano and Bierstady questions on the forum. I don't think that's too much to ask. Clearly I am wrong though...