Challenging summits
Forum rules
- This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
- Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
- Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
- Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
For more details, please see the Terms of Use you agreed to when joining the forum.
- DoctorBreaks
- Posts: 581
- Joined: 6/3/2014
- 14ers: 33 5
- 13ers: 6 2
- Trip Reports (0)
Challenging summits
Hey everyone, I just did Wetterhorn on Saturday and it was a very fun time. Wasn't as challenging as I had expected. Anyone have any suggestions for a step up in difficulty? I also, don't want to attempt anything too far over my head. Any input is greatly appreciated!
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
- screeman57
- Posts: 425
- Joined: 6/19/2012
- 14ers: 58 19
- 13ers: 79 12
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Challenging summits
Based on your experience on Tour D'Abyss and Wetterhorn, just go ahead and dive in to the more challenging routes. Seems like you're ready.
That said, seems like a good next step would be K.C./Challenger and the Crestones.
That said, seems like a good next step would be K.C./Challenger and the Crestones.
“To be is to do”—Socrates.
“To do is to be”—Jean-Paul Sartre.
“Do be do be do”—Frank Sinatra.
“To do is to be”—Jean-Paul Sartre.
“Do be do be do”—Frank Sinatra.
- DoctorBreaks
- Posts: 581
- Joined: 6/3/2014
- 14ers: 33 5
- 13ers: 6 2
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Challenging summits
Thanks man! Yeah always a bit nervous about how hard the more challenging ones really are. Was thinking of doing the Crestones, but kinda needed a bit of reassurance that they aren't too much for me. KC/Challenger is definitely on my list. KC is beautiful.screeman57 wrote:Based on your experience on Tour D'Abyss and Wetterhorn, just go ahead and dive in to the more challenging routes. Seems like you're ready.
That said, seems like a good next step would be K.C./Challenger and the Crestones.
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
Re: Challenging summits
I agree, if you cruised Wetterhorn you'd likely be fine on any of the standard 14er routes. Pyramid and both Crestones are super fun, and they aren't a huge step up.
“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe
"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
- DoctorBreaks
- Posts: 581
- Joined: 6/3/2014
- 14ers: 33 5
- 13ers: 6 2
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Challenging summits
Also might be helpful if I note that my final trip of the season, most likely first week of September will be the Chicago Basin 14er circuit. Was hoping that my experience until then would prepare me for them. Thanks again
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
- DoctorBreaks
- Posts: 581
- Joined: 6/3/2014
- 14ers: 33 5
- 13ers: 6 2
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Challenging summits
Always so hard to tell from the pictures, but yeah Wetterhorn was a blast! Example, whenever I see Little Bear's Hourglass I am like nope lol. Going to make that one of my last, but don't know how steep it really is since I've never been there.SurfNTurf wrote:I agree, if you cruised Wetterhorn you'd likely be fine on any of the standard 14er routes. Pyramid and both Crestones are super fun, and they aren't a huge step up.
Thanks SurfNTurf!
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
Re: Challenging summits
I've never been there with dry rock, but Little Bear as a snow climb doesn't exceed 45 degrees. Maaaaaybe 50ish in spots in certain years. I was able to face-out downclimb the whole thing in May 2013, which in my experience means it never made the jump from "moderate" to "steep." The snow also greatly reduces the danger from falling rocks and keeps the crowds at bay. I can't recommend Little Bear as a snow climb enough. It's the safest and easiest way to climb that peak.DoctorBreaks wrote:Always so hard to tell from the pictures, but yeah Wetterhorn was a blast! Example, whenever I see Little Bear's Hourglass I am like nope lol. Going to make that one of my last, but don't know how steep it really is since I've never been there.SurfNTurf wrote:I agree, if you cruised Wetterhorn you'd likely be fine on any of the standard 14er routes. Pyramid and both Crestones are super fun, and they aren't a huge step up.
Thanks SurfNTurf!
“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe
"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
- DoctorBreaks
- Posts: 581
- Joined: 6/3/2014
- 14ers: 33 5
- 13ers: 6 2
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Challenging summits
Saw a video of a man doing LB in snow and it looked insane! Although you are not the first to say it is easier in snow. I will have to do it in the snow then lol. I plan on winter climbing this year as this is my first full year in CO. Any easy snow climbs to recommend? Sorry to derail the convo lolSurfNTurf wrote:I've never been there with dry rock, but Little Bear as a snow climb doesn't exceed 45 degrees. Maaaaaybe 50ish in spots in certain years. I was able to face-out downclimb the whole thing in May 2013, which in my experience means it never made the jump from "moderate" to "steep." The snow also greatly reduces the danger from falling rocks and keeps the crowds at bay. I can't recommend Little Bear as a snow climb enough. It's the safest and easiest way to climb that peak.DoctorBreaks wrote:Always so hard to tell from the pictures, but yeah Wetterhorn was a blast! Example, whenever I see Little Bear's Hourglass I am like nope lol. Going to make that one of my last, but don't know how steep it really is since I've never been there.SurfNTurf wrote:I agree, if you cruised Wetterhorn you'd likely be fine on any of the standard 14er routes. Pyramid and both Crestones are super fun, and they aren't a huge step up.
Thanks SurfNTurf!
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
- screeman57
- Posts: 425
- Joined: 6/19/2012
- 14ers: 58 19
- 13ers: 79 12
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Challenging summits
Get Dave Cooper's book and take your pick:DoctorBreaks wrote:Any easy snow climbs to recommend?
http://www.amazon.com/Colorado-Snow-Cli ... mbs+cooper
Absolute +1 on L.B. in snow.
“To be is to do”—Socrates.
“To do is to be”—Jean-Paul Sartre.
“Do be do be do”—Frank Sinatra.
“To do is to be”—Jean-Paul Sartre.
“Do be do be do”—Frank Sinatra.
- DoctorBreaks
- Posts: 581
- Joined: 6/3/2014
- 14ers: 33 5
- 13ers: 6 2
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Challenging summits
Thank you for the book rec! I will be buying it and studying lol. I have read the Roach bible like 5 times back and forth lol. Not as much info on winter climbs as I'd liked, but it has been great for getting me this far. As usual everyone has been so helpful.screeman57 wrote:Get Dave Cooper's book and take your pick:DoctorBreaks wrote:Any easy snow climbs to recommend?
http://www.amazon.com/Colorado-Snow-Cli ... mbs+cooper
Absolute +1 on L.B. in snow.
Thanks again!
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
Re: Challenging summits
Winter climbing (snowshoes and ridgelines) and snow climbing (ice ax, crampons and couloirs) aren't really the same thing.
Once they're in spring condition, the Angel of Shavano and Cristo Couloir are great beginner snow-climbing options. Ridgelines with minimal avalanche danger are the name of the game in winter; the East Ridge routes on Elbert and Quandary are pretty solid introductions. A big +1 on Dave Cooper's book, it's a great compilation of year-round snow routes.
Anyone getting out in the winter needs to take at least an avalanche awareness course, which are offered free of charge by Friends of Berthoud Pass fairly often throughout the snowier months. Mountain Rescue Aspen also does a very affordable avalanche education weekend every year, I think around the Mountain Luther King, Jr. holiday.
Once they're in spring condition, the Angel of Shavano and Cristo Couloir are great beginner snow-climbing options. Ridgelines with minimal avalanche danger are the name of the game in winter; the East Ridge routes on Elbert and Quandary are pretty solid introductions. A big +1 on Dave Cooper's book, it's a great compilation of year-round snow routes.
Anyone getting out in the winter needs to take at least an avalanche awareness course, which are offered free of charge by Friends of Berthoud Pass fairly often throughout the snowier months. Mountain Rescue Aspen also does a very affordable avalanche education weekend every year, I think around the Mountain Luther King, Jr. holiday.
“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe
"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
Re: Challenging summits
+2 on Hourglass as a snow climb. It was only my 3rd or 4th one and I never felt sketched.
Although snow is finicky. Bad things happen when you try and force it when the conditions aren't right.
Although snow is finicky. Bad things happen when you try and force it when the conditions aren't right.