Challenging summits

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
Forum rules
  • This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
  • Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
  • Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
  • Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
    For more details, please see the Terms of Use you agreed to when joining the forum.
User avatar
DoctorBreaks
Posts: 581
Joined: 6/3/2014
14ers: 33  5 
13ers: 6 2
Trip Reports (0)
 

Challenging summits

Post by DoctorBreaks »

Hey everyone, I just did Wetterhorn on Saturday and it was a very fun time. Wasn't as challenging as I had expected. Anyone have any suggestions for a step up in difficulty? I also, don't want to attempt anything too far over my head. Any input is greatly appreciated!
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."

-Anatoli Boukreev

Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.


Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
User avatar
screeman57
Posts: 425
Joined: 6/19/2012
14ers: 58  19 
13ers: 79 12
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Challenging summits

Post by screeman57 »

Based on your experience on Tour D'Abyss and Wetterhorn, just go ahead and dive in to the more challenging routes. Seems like you're ready.

That said, seems like a good next step would be K.C./Challenger and the Crestones.
“To be is to do”—Socrates.
“To do is to be”—Jean-Paul Sartre.
“Do be do be do”—Frank Sinatra.
User avatar
DoctorBreaks
Posts: 581
Joined: 6/3/2014
14ers: 33  5 
13ers: 6 2
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Challenging summits

Post by DoctorBreaks »

screeman57 wrote:Based on your experience on Tour D'Abyss and Wetterhorn, just go ahead and dive in to the more challenging routes. Seems like you're ready.

That said, seems like a good next step would be K.C./Challenger and the Crestones.
Thanks man! Yeah always a bit nervous about how hard the more challenging ones really are. Was thinking of doing the Crestones, but kinda needed a bit of reassurance that they aren't too much for me. KC/Challenger is definitely on my list. KC is beautiful.
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."

-Anatoli Boukreev

Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.


Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
User avatar
SurfNTurf
Posts: 1890
Joined: 8/20/2009
14ers: 58  28 
13ers: 127 7
Trip Reports (48)
 
Contact:

Re: Challenging summits

Post by SurfNTurf »

I agree, if you cruised Wetterhorn you'd likely be fine on any of the standard 14er routes. Pyramid and both Crestones are super fun, and they aren't a huge step up.
“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe

"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
User avatar
DoctorBreaks
Posts: 581
Joined: 6/3/2014
14ers: 33  5 
13ers: 6 2
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Challenging summits

Post by DoctorBreaks »

Also might be helpful if I note that my final trip of the season, most likely first week of September will be the Chicago Basin 14er circuit. Was hoping that my experience until then would prepare me for them. Thanks again
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."

-Anatoli Boukreev

Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.


Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
User avatar
DoctorBreaks
Posts: 581
Joined: 6/3/2014
14ers: 33  5 
13ers: 6 2
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Challenging summits

Post by DoctorBreaks »

SurfNTurf wrote:I agree, if you cruised Wetterhorn you'd likely be fine on any of the standard 14er routes. Pyramid and both Crestones are super fun, and they aren't a huge step up.
Always so hard to tell from the pictures, but yeah Wetterhorn was a blast! Example, whenever I see Little Bear's Hourglass I am like nope lol. Going to make that one of my last, but don't know how steep it really is since I've never been there.

Thanks SurfNTurf!
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."

-Anatoli Boukreev

Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.


Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
User avatar
SurfNTurf
Posts: 1890
Joined: 8/20/2009
14ers: 58  28 
13ers: 127 7
Trip Reports (48)
 
Contact:

Re: Challenging summits

Post by SurfNTurf »

DoctorBreaks wrote:
SurfNTurf wrote:I agree, if you cruised Wetterhorn you'd likely be fine on any of the standard 14er routes. Pyramid and both Crestones are super fun, and they aren't a huge step up.
Always so hard to tell from the pictures, but yeah Wetterhorn was a blast! Example, whenever I see Little Bear's Hourglass I am like nope lol. Going to make that one of my last, but don't know how steep it really is since I've never been there.

Thanks SurfNTurf!
I've never been there with dry rock, but Little Bear as a snow climb doesn't exceed 45 degrees. Maaaaaybe 50ish in spots in certain years. I was able to face-out downclimb the whole thing in May 2013, which in my experience means it never made the jump from "moderate" to "steep." The snow also greatly reduces the danger from falling rocks and keeps the crowds at bay. I can't recommend Little Bear as a snow climb enough. It's the safest and easiest way to climb that peak.
“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe

"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
User avatar
DoctorBreaks
Posts: 581
Joined: 6/3/2014
14ers: 33  5 
13ers: 6 2
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Challenging summits

Post by DoctorBreaks »

SurfNTurf wrote:
DoctorBreaks wrote:
SurfNTurf wrote:I agree, if you cruised Wetterhorn you'd likely be fine on any of the standard 14er routes. Pyramid and both Crestones are super fun, and they aren't a huge step up.
Always so hard to tell from the pictures, but yeah Wetterhorn was a blast! Example, whenever I see Little Bear's Hourglass I am like nope lol. Going to make that one of my last, but don't know how steep it really is since I've never been there.

Thanks SurfNTurf!
I've never been there with dry rock, but Little Bear as a snow climb doesn't exceed 45 degrees. Maaaaaybe 50ish in spots in certain years. I was able to face-out downclimb the whole thing in May 2013, which in my experience means it never made the jump from "moderate" to "steep." The snow also greatly reduces the danger from falling rocks and keeps the crowds at bay. I can't recommend Little Bear as a snow climb enough. It's the safest and easiest way to climb that peak.
Saw a video of a man doing LB in snow and it looked insane! Although you are not the first to say it is easier in snow. I will have to do it in the snow then lol. I plan on winter climbing this year as this is my first full year in CO. Any easy snow climbs to recommend? Sorry to derail the convo lol
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."

-Anatoli Boukreev

Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.


Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
User avatar
screeman57
Posts: 425
Joined: 6/19/2012
14ers: 58  19 
13ers: 79 12
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Challenging summits

Post by screeman57 »

DoctorBreaks wrote:Any easy snow climbs to recommend?
Get Dave Cooper's book and take your pick:
http://www.amazon.com/Colorado-Snow-Cli ... mbs+cooper

Absolute +1 on L.B. in snow.
“To be is to do”—Socrates.
“To do is to be”—Jean-Paul Sartre.
“Do be do be do”—Frank Sinatra.
User avatar
DoctorBreaks
Posts: 581
Joined: 6/3/2014
14ers: 33  5 
13ers: 6 2
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Challenging summits

Post by DoctorBreaks »

screeman57 wrote:
DoctorBreaks wrote:Any easy snow climbs to recommend?
Get Dave Cooper's book and take your pick:
http://www.amazon.com/Colorado-Snow-Cli ... mbs+cooper

Absolute +1 on L.B. in snow.
Thank you for the book rec! I will be buying it and studying lol. I have read the Roach bible like 5 times back and forth lol. Not as much info on winter climbs as I'd liked, but it has been great for getting me this far. As usual everyone has been so helpful.

Thanks again!
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."

-Anatoli Boukreev

Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.


Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
User avatar
SurfNTurf
Posts: 1890
Joined: 8/20/2009
14ers: 58  28 
13ers: 127 7
Trip Reports (48)
 
Contact:

Re: Challenging summits

Post by SurfNTurf »

Winter climbing (snowshoes and ridgelines) and snow climbing (ice ax, crampons and couloirs) aren't really the same thing.

Once they're in spring condition, the Angel of Shavano and Cristo Couloir are great beginner snow-climbing options. Ridgelines with minimal avalanche danger are the name of the game in winter; the East Ridge routes on Elbert and Quandary are pretty solid introductions. A big +1 on Dave Cooper's book, it's a great compilation of year-round snow routes.

Anyone getting out in the winter needs to take at least an avalanche awareness course, which are offered free of charge by Friends of Berthoud Pass fairly often throughout the snowier months. Mountain Rescue Aspen also does a very affordable avalanche education weekend every year, I think around the Mountain Luther King, Jr. holiday.
“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe

"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
User avatar
doggler
Posts: 561
Joined: 7/26/2005
14ers: 57  8 
13ers: 162 7
Trip Reports (25)
 

Re: Challenging summits

Post by doggler »

+2 on Hourglass as a snow climb. It was only my 3rd or 4th one and I never felt sketched.

Although snow is finicky. Bad things happen when you try and force it when the conditions aren't right.
Post Reply