El D - Mt Wilson Traverse vs standard routes

[bbass11]

If I've never summited El Diente or Mt Wilson, is it a good idea to attempt the traverse, or is it smarter to just climb up and descend the more standard routes on each so that I am descending a route that I have seen before? And Is the traverse any more technically challenging than the routes up the individual peaks themselves?

Also, if I were not to do the traverse, but climb all three peaks in the group individually (North Buttress for El Diente, Northeast ridge for Mt Wilson, and southwest ridge for Wilson Peak), which combination would be easier to double in a day, El D and Mt Wilson or Wilson Peak and Mt Wilson?

[wildlobo71]

You don't have to traverse, there is a route - or a shitshow talus contouring effort - to get from the trail up El Diente to Wilson on the Kilpacker side, when I traversed I saw a few take it. The traverse looked too fun to miss. And actually, we didn't do the entire ridge-proper traverse; there is a lower trail on the south side of the traverse that follows the ridge for maybe 1/3 of the way, or more, before you get to the ridge for the rest of the crossing.

Having never successfully completed the north face approaches (bailed at 13,400' on Mt. Wilson a couple years ago) - I hate Navajo Basin. My preference would be to do Wilson Peak from Silverpick Basin on day one, then drive around to Kilpacker and hike in, camp... wake up and do the traverse (or the not-traverse) for all three peaks in two days.

[Mtnman200]

You've done the Crestones, so I'd say you appear to have the ability to do the traverse. The easier way to go is El Diente to Mt. Wilson. You do want an early start so you're on your way down while the weather is still good.

I'm not familiar with the Kilpacker approach, having climbed from the Navajo side twice but only doing the traverse once. I didn't have any trouble descending from Mt. Wilson after not having climbed up that way. The route seemed fairly obvious; just take the path of least resistance.

[hberry]

Please note that there was still a LOT OF SNOW on the Kilpacker side on the 13th making it easy to get off the route if doing the Hybrid traverse. Of course it has been fairly warm but it was holding mucho mucho snow.

[Corey17]

I'd advise going for the traverse. I was out there this last weekend, and did El Diente (North Buttress), then the traverse, then the descent via the Northwest Ridge. Honestly, no move on the traverse was worse technically or more exposed than the top 150' of the North Buttress route for me. Just pick your lines well, and go into it prepared. Not to mention, doing the traverse lets you skip descending the North Buttress, which would be tricky in places.

The descent down Mt Wilson is really straightforward. Its really well cairned, and once below the crux, features nothing Class 3/4. Not to mention you can see the whole of Navajo Basin for the entire descent. And on the North side, snow is completely a non-issue. All 3 legs of the route are dry as a bone where it matters.

[hberry]

I'd advise going for the traverse. I was out there this last weekend, and did El Diente (North Buttress), then the traverse, then the descent via the Northwest Ridge. Honestly, no move on the traverse was worse technically or more exposed than the top 150' of the North Buttress route for me. Just pick your lines well, and go into it prepared. Not to mention, doing the traverse lets you skip descending the North Buttress, which would be tricky in places.

The descent down Mt Wilson is really straightforward. Its really well cairned, and once below the crux, features nothing Class 3/4. Not to mention you can see the whole of Navajo Basin for the entire descent. And on the North side, snow is completely a non-issue. All 3 legs of the route are dry as a bone where it matters.

This times 100

I wish I did the standard traverse.

[greenonion]

I want to do the traverse also from Navajo Basin by going up to El D first, but not the north buttress route. What can anyone say about going up El D's standard route from Navajo B., up the couloir that is supposed to have rockfall danger? Avoid, proceed with caution, or no biggie?

[KTC88]

I've done the north slopes route and the north buttress route. I will NEVER, EVER do the north slopes route again unless it is a snow climb. There was no one climbing above me, yet I was dodging microwave sized rocks the entire climb. I loved the north buttress route and the traverse to Mt. Wilson. If you're up for the traverse, you'll enjoy the north buttress route.

[Mtnman200]

The first time I did the North Buttress, my dad and I were going to do the traverse but had to scratch it from our plans when the weather got ugly. We ended up descending the North Buttress, and the wet rock made it somewhat less than the most fun I've ever had in my life. We got down without incident, but it's really a better ascent route than descent route. Hopefully the weather cooperates for you.

[thebeave7]

I've done the north slopes route and the north buttress route. I will NEVER, EVER do the north slopes route again unless it is a snow climb. There was no one climbing above me, yet I was dodging microwave sized rocks the entire climb. I loved the north buttress route and the traverse to Mt. Wilson. If you're up for the traverse, you'll enjoy the north buttress route.

I did the North slope as a hybrid climb on July 4th and even then the snow was pretty shitty, postholing to the crotch and no fun. In addition the sides and under the snow was just horribly loose scree and boulders. Now that its mostly melted out I'd opt for the North Buttress if you are comfortable with the effort, otherwise maybe come up from the Kilpacker side.

The traverse was actually quite enjoyable, especially if you stay a little higher on more solid class 3-4 rock, no where near the misery/danger of El Diente's North slope.

Eric

[bbass11]

Thanks guys for all the information. Looks like the traverse is the way to go, which I was kind of hoping for. Great comments, thanks for the help.

[djkest]

Just a word of caution.

When we did the traverse, we didn't know that most people drop down near the end close to Mt. Wilson. We went ridge proper and it was crazy. Easily class 4 and possibly low 5th, steep, exposed. Just go underneath that part. Besides that part the traverse was [edit] not overly difficult.