Longs Info

[AlexeyD]

Currently I wear 5.10 guide tennies. I used to wear the boulder x, and I'd say they have stickier rubber, but they should all work well enough.

The section near the top of the trough is a bit scrambly, but not especially exposed. The homestretch feels exposed, but in truth is not very steep (remember that when going down - it always looks steeper than going up). But yes, most of it is walking.

[adamjm]

Thanks for all the tips. On the keyhole route, the only class 3 is homestretch and the chockstone move at the top of the Trough, correct?

I was up there Monday the 21st - 2nd class 3 hike after Bierstadt-Sawtooth-Evans. IMO Longs was significantly more difficult. To echo what other have said, its completely free of snow at this point. We got kicked out of the meeker overflow campground (about 5 miles from the TH - $11 a night) at midnight because of a black bear the park rangers "had to deal with." Decided we weren't going to sleep anymore anyway so we started up at 12:45 - ended up being the 2nd group on the trail.

There are a couple exposed class 3 moves on the ledges just after the keyhole. To me, this was the sketchiest part of the route - have to squeeze around a weird rock that just out and use some rebar sticking out to get through. After that the chockstone and homestretch are the class 3 parts, although getting down the chockstone felt more like a 3+ - 4 move, maybe I just went the wrong way. I'd recommend going up around to the right on the way up though.

Started at 12:45, Summit at 7:42, back to the keyhole at 9:30, TH at 1:45, 13 hours overall, with some several 5-10 min breaks on the way down.

[ezabielski]

Thanks for all the tips. On the keyhole route, the only class 3 is homestretch and the chockstone move at the top of the Trough, correct?

The move at the top of the Trough is the most difficult, but can actually be avoided by going to the left of it and scrambling up difficult class 2 talus. Although if you're tall, the normal way might not be more than a big reach for you. The upper Homestretch is sustained slabby scrambling using your hands and feet, but not particularly exposed and not many loose rocks either.

[SnowAlien]

Did anybody get a good look at the North Face/Cables recently? (the last conditions update for the North face was about a month ago). Wondering about amount of snow still left and if it is avoidable w/o any traction. Thanks!

p.s. 5.10 Guide Tennies rule! Way better than La Sportiva Boulder X which I also have, but thinking to get rid of them.

[CarpeDM]

Natalie,
Some relevant info was included this morning in one of the CMS promotional emails that I receive on occasion:

"Longs North Face is now a 5.4 waterfall climb with some patches of snow..."

HTH

[SnowAlien]

Thanks Dave, apparently I don't get enough promotional emails from CMC. Can you forward it to me please? Esp if there are any photos. Planning to rappel, not climb.

[viejo]

Descended the Cable's route last week. Pretty much no snow to contend with. Nothing on the tech section at all. No traction or ice axe required or even useful.

There was some water running along the dihedral. I'm sure that also varies with latest rainfall. Wettest part would be just above the second bolt climbing up (the one you might use as the second rap position if you're using a single 50/60m rope). If you went a foot or two right of the dihedral, it was dry.

[JasonFTC]

Is there any red tape about being dropped off at the trailhead mid afternoon with minimal camp gear. (Sleeping bag pretty much). And sleeping near treeline, or the boulderfield?

[adamjm]

Is there any red tape about being dropped off at the trailhead mid afternoon with minimal camp gear. (Sleeping bag pretty much). And sleeping near treeline, or the boulderfield?

You need a permit to camp in the boulderfield, no doubt they are sold out for the next few weekends. No backcountry camping allowed without a permit from the office in Estes Park AFAIK. With that said, we had a ranger tell us no one checks to see if anyone is car camping at the trailhead.

[JasonFTC]

Is there any red tape about being dropped off at the trailhead mid afternoon with minimal camp gear. (Sleeping bag pretty much). And sleeping near treeline, or the boulderfield?

You need a permit to camp in the boulderfield, no doubt they are sold out for the next few weekends. No backcountry camping allowed without a permit from the office in Estes Park AFAIK. With that said, we had a ranger tell us no one checks to see if anyone is car camping at the trailhead.

Knew it was slim chances. I was hoping to split the hike instead of doing a full 16 miles in a day. Thanks though.

[cory1223oh]

Is there any red tape about being dropped off at the trailhead mid afternoon with minimal camp gear. (Sleeping bag pretty much). And sleeping near treeline, or the boulderfield?

You need a permit to camp in the boulderfield, no doubt they are sold out for the next few weekends. No backcountry camping allowed without a permit from the office in Estes Park AFAIK. With that said, we had a ranger tell us no one checks to see if anyone is car camping at the trailhead.

Knew it was slim chances. I was hoping to split the hike instead of doing a full 16 miles in a day. Thanks though.

I wouldn't worry about it too much. I've heard a lot of terrible stories about camping at the boulderfield. I don't think you're missing out on much.

[CORed]

Thanks for all the tips. On the keyhole route, the only class 3 is homestretch and the chockstone move at the top of the Trough, correct?

Well defining class 3 as any place you need to use your hands, there's a little bit of class 3 on the upper boulderfield just below the Keyhole, and quite a bit in the Ledges section between the Keyhole and the Trough, some of it fairly exposed and the chocksotne and Homestretch. The chockstone at the top of the Trough/beginning of the Narrows is easy, but quite exposed. I've seen people chicken out at that point. The Homestretch is actully pretty ease. It's solid, with lots of cracks, footholds and handholds, and moderate angle. It looks a lot harder in phots and videos than it really is. Of course, that's when it's dry if it's wet, or especially if there's snow or ice, it's another story.

The Trough, though it's steep class 2, has some rockfall hazard. There's quite a bit of loose rock, and, on a summer weekend, it's usually full of people, many not too experienced in that sort of hiking. For the most part, the angle is low enough that the rocks that get kicked loose don't go very far, but you never know when one is going to take the wrong bounce and get moving fast enough to be dangerous. A helmet isn't a bad idea there, though I didn't wear one on my three climbs of the Keyhole route.