Little bear safety

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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Sbenfield
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Little bear safety

Post by Sbenfield »

I know at some point I want to summit little bear. Is it safest to attempt in the summer or in late spring as a snow climb?
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ameristrat
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by ameristrat »

Depends on your snow climbing ability. I did the SW Ridge route and, while it's long, exposed, and difficult, it's safer than the hourglass (from what I've been told).
You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know. - Rene Daumal
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Wish I lived in CO
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by Wish I lived in CO »

ameristrat wrote:Depends on your snow climbing ability. I did the SW Ridge route and, while it's long, exposed, and difficult, it's safer than the hourglass (from what I've been told).
Ditto. Was there 3 weeks ago. It's loose and exposed, but we kept it at class 3, though most choose to stay on the ridge (class 4). Regarding a snow climb I have minimal skills personally, but read NYker's trip report from this spring, and I'm sure many others to gain a better perspective on the pros and cons of a snow climb attempt.
I look up to the mountains - does my help come from there? My help comes from the Lord, who made heaven and earth! Psalm 121:1-2
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Generalcuz
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by Generalcuz »

Have done both but if I had to do it again, I would do it in the spring with snow on the hourglass. I walked up that thing in 20 mins. Took me an hour and a half in the dryness of summer.
Life is a mountain, not a beach.
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Somewhat of a Prick
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by Somewhat of a Prick »

Your snow skills need to be up to snuff, meaning you better be able to self-arrest a fall in the hourglass. If you're not sure you could, snow may not be the best.
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bdloftin77
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by bdloftin77 »

To add another question, is the traverse from Blanca any better, or are the Hourglass or SW Ridge routes better bets?
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randalmartin
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by randalmartin »

bdloftin77 wrote:To add another question, is the traverse from Blanca any better, or are the Hourglass or SW Ridge routes better bets?
The traverse from Blanca is magnitudes greater in difficulty and exposure. So if by better you mean safer, then I would say no.
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by pseudoghost »

Having done it as a snow climb this year, I have to say that I'm a bit mixed about whether or not it is actually any safer to do one way or another. The snow significantly reduces the rockfall hazard, but it increases the consequences of a fall. IMO, with snow, once you start off from the top of the north couloir you are in no-fall terrain pretty much until you make it back. Without snow, that ridge is slower going, but the consequences of a fall are less severe.

The hourglass itself is a pretty easy snow climb by most standards if the snow conditions are favorable. You might have a few ice or mixed moves if you wait too long into the season to get after it. Above the hourglass, you are in no-fall terrain again. I would say that self-arrest is not realistic above the hourglass. If you fall, you probably die. Below the hourglass, you could probably self-arrest if you catch yourself early enough and/or if the snow is soft enough. If it's hard or icy, then you probably die too.

I know that sounds super dangerous, but you have to keep it in perspective. The fall danger can be mitigated by making careful placements with your feet and axe, and taking your time. With rockfall, you're basically rolling the dice and hoping they don't come up snake eyes. I'd much rather do Little Bear as a snow climb, but it's a serious climb and should not be underestimated.
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jmanner
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by jmanner »

pseudoghost wrote:Having done it as a snow climb this year, I have to say that I'm a bit mixed about whether or not it is actually any safer to do one way or another. The snow significantly reduces the rockfall hazard, but it increases the consequences of a fall. IMO, with snow, once you start off from the top of the north couloir you are in no-fall terrain pretty much until you make it back. Without snow, that ridge is slower going, but the consequences of a fall are less severe.

The hourglass itself is a pretty easy snow climb by most standards if the snow conditions are favorable. You might have a few ice or mixed moves if you wait too long into the season to get after it. Above the hourglass, you are in no-fall terrain again. I would say that self-arrest is not realistic above the hourglass. If you fall, you probably die. Below the hourglass, you could probably self-arrest if you catch yourself early enough and/or if the snow is soft enough. If it's hard or icy, then you probably die too.

I know that sounds super dangerous, but you have to keep it in perspective. The fall danger can be mitigated by making careful placements with your feet and axe, and taking your time. With rockfall, you're basically rolling the dice and hoping they don't come up snake eyes. I'd much rather do Little Bear as a snow climb, but it's a serious climb and should not be underestimated.
So, what he said is 100% right. With snow, if you fall you self arresting or you are dead, same with above the hourglass(which I really doubt you could self arrest in several places). I guess the trade off is: with snow its up to you not to kill yourself over a long part of the climb or summer hope noone, thing or god/fate/etc. kicks rocks down on you during the hourglass. http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... m=tripuser" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Prick and my Trip report from April. Give you some idea...
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

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Brian C
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by Brian C »

This thread has come up alot...
Screen Shot 2014-08-07 at 3.17.26 PM.jpg
Screen Shot 2014-08-07 at 3.17.26 PM.jpg (329.94 KiB) Viewed 423 times
Brian in the Wild
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Buckshot Jake
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by Buckshot Jake »

^^^ LOL
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--bb--
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Re: Little bear safety

Post by --bb-- »

If you are thinking about a snow climb, then I would highly recommend taking an ice climbing clinic in addition to being completely confident in your self arrest skills. My partner and I experienced mixed conditions above the hourglass. We had hoped it would be all snow but knew an ice encounter was a possibility. Taking the ice climbing course prepared me well. Being confident in your technique, stance and abilities is absolutely critical for this mountain. Better to be over-prepared than under!
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