Bells Traverse question....?

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
Forum rules
  • This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
  • Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
  • Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
  • Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
    For more details, please see the Terms of Use you agreed to when joining the forum.
hedup
Posts: 13
Joined: 6/19/2011
14ers: 4 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Bells Traverse question....?

Post by hedup »

Hi...was looking at doing the Bells Traverse from S to N. Plan is to hit the south summit no later than 9:30 am then evaluate weather, terrain, fatigue, comfort level...etc and make a decision to decend back down the way I came up, or continue on the traverse to the north summit, then down the NE ridge back to the trailhead. I will be doing this climb solo and midweek, so keep that in mind when you consider my questions.

Okay, couple questions to help in the decision making process while on the south summit:
1) If I find the route up to the south summit technically un-challenging, can I assume the ridge to the north summit will be obviously more difficult, but quite do-able? (I know these routes are rated, but would like to hear some personal opinions as to the difficulty)

2) Are there any "points of no return" on the ridge traverse? Just in case I start the traverse and for some reason decide I need to turn back and retrace my steps back down the south summit.

3) If it's been rainy on the previous day(s), how much more sketchy (slick mud, etc) will the decent down the NE ridge be?

4) Assuming all goes well, and assuming I climb at an average speed...any guesses as to the duration of this climb from trailhead to trailhead? I know any answer to this will be a wild ass guess without knowing me, or my fitness level...just figured I'd throw it out there anyway! If it helps, I did Holy Cross car to car in about 7 hours (NOT counting time spent on the summit).

Thanks in advance!!!
User avatar
Voodoo302
Posts: 122
Joined: 10/11/2010
14ers: 19 
13ers: 6
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by Voodoo302 »

I did the traverse last year and it was excellent. As a general note, if you're comfortable with moderate technical climbing, the few 5th class sections on this route won't be difficult. That said, there is a LOT of very loose rock and some of the crux sections are definitely no-fall areas.

1. The traverse is more difficult than the ascent to the south peak. More challenging route finding and this is where I found the hardest climbing.

2. There are a few 'points of difficult return.' The traverse can definitely be done in either direction, but going back south would be harder. I'd make sure the weather is good before continuing, although reversing the route back down the south would be a lengthy process as well. It's not a quick climb along that ridge. I'd take a hard look at the weather and yourself when you reach the ridge BEFORE the south summit (after the long steep climb up). That's your last truly easy escape until you're well down off the north summit.

3. Potentially very slick. The descent off the NE ridge is very steep and has a lot of loose sections. You can probably get down it in most conditions though.

4. My friend and I run a few times a week and consider ourselves reasonably fit for early 30's, and it took us 10 hours from Crater Lake, including stops.

It's a great route, have fun!
hedup
Posts: 13
Joined: 6/19/2011
14ers: 4 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by hedup »

Voodoo....
Thank you!

Excellent feedback!

Everyone else, keep it coming!
JosephG
Posts: 369
Joined: 9/27/2008
14ers: 58  9 
13ers: 171
Trip Reports (9)
 

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by JosephG »

It's been awhile since I've done it, but here goes:

1. The traverse is technically more challenging, but unlike the S. Maroon flanks, there is a pretty finite number of ways to go--i.e., you are "funneled" across. The rock on the crux upclimbs was more solid than ascending South, and, as I recall, the (low) class 5 scrambles were short and with relatively low exposure compared to what I had expected. That's not to say you should underestimate them, but the holds were pretty straightforward. Traversing the peaks was exponentially more appealing than descending South. However, descending North will present its own attendant difficulties since you did not come up that way, and it is easier than you think to lose the trail--particularly since you'll be mentally fatigued.

2. As Voodoo said, you "can" return, but once you hit the first class 5 upclimb, it would be difficult--or at least tricky--to descend without a rope. Doable, sure, although if you're reversing because of weather it is a huge added stress and you won't be able to go as fast as you'd like. But at that point, I'm also not sure it'd save much time to not just complete the traverse (that's not bravado, I just honestly can't remember; certainly by the third crux, going over North would be faster). You would be much, much better off making the go/no-go call from South's summit, not mid-traverse. The traverse did not take as long as I expected, but it still takes time and attention. Part of both 1 and 2 depend how comfortable you are with exposure and your scrambling abilities.

3. I would guess it would require more attention, but I don't think much worse than descending South Maroon on slick rock. That said, I would not want to be on either in a rain storm. The descent off South towards the Bell Cord and the bottom of the traverse should give you an idea of the rock quality you'll face descending North, re: slickness and looseness. The slicker the rock, the more demanding your descent will be.

4. It is a great route, and 8-10 hours from Crater Lake sounds about right, depending on competent route-finding and whatever rest you take.

I'll review some pics later tonight and see if I need to add to or amend the above. Good luck!
User avatar
Kevin Baker
Posts: 884
Joined: 5/19/2005
14ers: 58  53 
13ers: 674 32
Trip Reports (125)
 
Contact:

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by Kevin Baker »

The 2nd crux would be the point of no return for me. The other cruxes are not near as exposed with better holds. I would allow 1.5-2.5 hours for the traverse. Unless you have a great forecast, starting the traverse past 10am would be pushing it since it is a long descent to treeline off North. And yes, descending North on wet rock is not fun!
Always do what you are afraid to do. -Ralph Waldo Emerson
hedup
Posts: 13
Joined: 6/19/2011
14ers: 4 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by hedup »

Thanks again for all the info! Exactly the stuff I was looking for!
User avatar
Rock-a-Fella
Posts: 192
Joined: 7/28/2011
13ers: 16
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by Rock-a-Fella »

You have some excellent feedback on the Traverse it self.

If you have never climbed North Maroon then you will want to pay very close attention below the chimney. The notch or top of gully #2.

When you down climb into the gully you will see a trail leading left and out to the North Face. There is even a cairn (winter route). DO NOT GO THIS WAY!
The well worn path is a game trail, mostly.

Look carefully and you will see a trail leading down the gully below and to the right of the game trail. It will become more apparent as you get into the gully.

If you somehow miss this turn and end up on the north face then BACK TRACK at ALL COSTS! Few make it off that section without rescue or worse.

Have a fun trip
hedup
Posts: 13
Joined: 6/19/2011
14ers: 4 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by hedup »

Gully #2 being the first gully I come to on the decent correct?
User avatar
Kiefer
Posts: 1747
Joined: 5/10/2008
14ers: 58  39 
13ers: 317 24
Trip Reports (20)
 
Contact:

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by Kiefer »

Here is a shot of the dihedral (chimney) along the traverse. Thanks Jeremiah for the pic!
Chimney - Copy.jpg
Chimney - Copy.jpg (239.55 KiB) Viewed 838 times
User avatar
glodder
Posts: 426
Joined: 10/18/2004
14ers: 58 
13ers: 3
Trip Reports (22)
 

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by glodder »

You might check out my trip report from last Labor Day weekend, especially the parts describing the Traverse (which is a large portion of the TR). Link below.

I would give yourself plenty of time. It took us 14 1/2 hours round-trip, and we're no slouches, although Mike and I both have bad knees and descending steep terrain (such as North Maroon's) is not our specialty.

We were able to avoid the dihedral Kiefer talks about. I think this is the area on the final Class 5 section where we ended up climbing exactly in the middle of the west-facing part of the wall, just to the left of the overhangs.

Let me know if you have any particular questions.

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... m=tripuser" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Todd
"It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves." - Sir Edmund Hillary
User avatar
Brian C
Posts: 1308
Joined: 2/26/2008
14ers: 45  5 
13ers: 19
Trip Reports (25)
 
Contact:

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by Brian C »

We did the same chimney Kiefer posted. I thought that was the hardest part of the ridge.
Brian in the Wild
Lists of John
"Nature never did betray the heart that loved her." - Wordsworth
User avatar
JeremiahG
Posts: 56
Joined: 5/2/2014
14ers: 4 
Trip Reports (0)
 

Re: Bells Traverse question....?

Post by JeremiahG »

Have fun on the traverse. Take it slow and keep your wits. I agree with Brian. That part was hard but fun.

Kiefer, each time I look at that pick, I get a kick out of how the axe in your pack looks like it replaced your head. The headless climber who haunts the bells searching for his missing head. :mrgreen:
Post Reply