Kilpacker or Navajo Lake?

[greenonion]

Am looking into doing El D then traverse to Mt Wilson. What opinions are there between 1. backpacking/camping at Nav Lake then north buttress of El D, traverse to MW; or 2. backpack/camp near Kilpacker TH, climb El D with traverse to MW. How hairy is north buttress route of El D? I read supplemental route description for north buttress, but that makes it sound pretty easy - is it real exposed/dicey?

[greenonion]

Am retracting my statement that the north buttress on El D doesn't look too hairy. Indeed it does at the slabs and above. No room for error. Leaning to Kilpacker side attempt, then traverse to MW, and descend back into Kilpacker.

[ameristrat]

This may come across as harsh, and I certainly don't mean it that way, but if you're worried about El Diente's North Buttress route being too hairy, are you sure you've properly evaluated the traverse?

I did Mt. Wilson and El Diente last weekend from Kilpacker, and our group opted for the low traverse (dropping down to 13k in the south side), and this decision was encouraged by a friend who nearly died after a a large rockfall incident last year at the crux of the traverse. Incidentally, this is the spot of several deaths and accidents on the traverse over the last several years.

That friend who was in the accident on the traverse did the North Buttress route and mentioned that it was not as difficult as the traverse.

I don't mean to discourage you, but be sure you're comfortable with what you're heading in to.

[greenonion]

Thanks a ton - taken with complete understanding and gratitude. Was wondering a bit about the traverse too, so really appreciate your focus there. I'm going to look into your lower traverse from ElD to MW (I think I remember a TR) along with ascent of El D from southern/Kilpacker route. Thanks again!

[Mully]

Thanks for letting me listen in.... we're headed down there later in the week. So is the "upper" vs "lower" the difference of staying ON the ridge vs. dropping off the ridge on the south side? Also we're going in from the Silver Pick side to do the N. Buttress and then down Mt Wlson on the north slops... thoughts on that decent?

[nperry]

I found the north buttress to be remarkably easy, there are cairns almost the entire way up. Took me 2hours from my camp site below the lake to summit El D. I was a bit nervous to solo the traverse but the weather was too nice and went for it. 2 hour traverse, a few tricky moves at the top below the MW summit, fairly easy, just take you time. The slog down the north slope too a bit longer than i expected, a bit loose in spots. I backpacked in at 10pm, if i had to do it over i would just go straight from my car via Navajo TH early in the morning.

[The Legend]

This is a great post, and one I am curious about too. I am confused. I am not familiar with the lower traverse, but if it is only 1000 ft drop, this is not bad if it is safer. Also, the biggest question is "if you go to El. D from Kilpacker, and traverse over to Mt. Wilson, how do you descend back into Kilpacker from Mt. Wilson, or do you have to do the traverse again, which is not going to happen. Any and all advice would be helpful. The ultimate goal is to climb all three peaks with the littlest hiking of course. We could do Kilpacker, hike out, sleep, and do Wilson from ROA trail head. Help please.

[ameristrat]

If, after reading these, your questions aren't answered, let me know.

http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.ph ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.ph ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.ph ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And yes, if you want to do it in a weekend, I would do the Kilpacker route for Mt. Wilson and El Diente and then drive around to do Wilson Pk from RoA.

[SnowAlien]

I found the north buttress to be remarkably easy, there are cairns almost the entire way up. Took me 2hours from my camp site below the lake to summit El D. I was a bit nervous to solo the traverse but the weather was too nice and went for it. 2 hour traverse, a few tricky moves at the top below the MW summit, fairly easy, just take you time. The slog down the north slope too a bit longer than i expected, a bit loose in spots. I backpacked in at 10pm, if i had to do it over i would just go straight from my car via Navajo TH early in the morning.

Good to hear about North Buttress route! I regret not doing it first time around. The traverse was not too difficult - the hardest section was indeed a few moves below the MW summit. I cannot emphasize enough not to attempt these mountains after heavy rains when the soil is still soggy - everything comes loose. In fact, I heard the rockfall down lower on Killpacker side when I was doing the traverse.