Hey all,
I looked around for some recent beta on Kiener's and Lambs Slide on Long's, but I haven't found anything from the last few weeks. Anyone been up there lately? Is Lambs Slide spitting rocks every 5 seconds like it did last year in late August? Should I bring my tools and screws or is it still bullet hard snow?
I'm thinking about going up Wednesday night for a bivy at Chasm and a climb of Kieners.
Thanks in advance!
Kiener's/Lambs Slide on Longs
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atalarico
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Kiener's/Lambs Slide on Longs
Last edited by atalarico on Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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pbakwin
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Re: Kiener's/Lambs Slide
If snow conditions are poor you can always climb rock on the left of Lambs and then go over the top of the snow & back down to Broadway. Adds a couple 100 ft at most.
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atalarico
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Re: Kiener's/Lambs Slide
Thanks for the info! I have read about this "Glacial Rib" in Gillet's book, and I've seen mention of it, but nothing really concrete. I've heard if you climb too high above the traverse to Broadway, cross over, and then have to downclimb to Broadway, it can be a bit hairy.
I've been on Long's three times now in the past four years, and I have yet to summit (1 successful climb on the Diamond but we didn't have enough time to summit, 1 unsuccessful Diamond climb, and 1 bail at the base of Lambs Slide). I'm thinking about attempting Kiener's again before I just throw my hands up and join the hoards up the Keyhole.
The time we aborted Kiener's was in August two years ago because Lambs Slide was puking rocks and ice at us immediately after the sun hit it. It also was bullet hard ice, so we brought tools but forgot screws. I had read about climbing the "Glacial Rib" to the left of Lambs Slide, but didn't feel comfortable enough venturing up into that terrain without more beta.
I'm thinking the scramble and then crossing of Lambs Slide higher up would be easier for a few reasons. There would be less weight to carry, as we wouldn't have to carry crampons or boots for kicking steps, and maybe just approach shoes with micro-spikes, an ax, and maybe a screw just in case. That would bring my pack weight down to really make car-to-car a lot more feasible for my level of aerobic fitness.
If we didn't have to bivy, then we could avoid having to worry about getting back to Chasm via Camel Couloir or Chasm View Raps. I'm just seeing more wins with this approach.
I guess if anyone has better beta on it, I'm all ears!
I've been on Long's three times now in the past four years, and I have yet to summit (1 successful climb on the Diamond but we didn't have enough time to summit, 1 unsuccessful Diamond climb, and 1 bail at the base of Lambs Slide). I'm thinking about attempting Kiener's again before I just throw my hands up and join the hoards up the Keyhole.
The time we aborted Kiener's was in August two years ago because Lambs Slide was puking rocks and ice at us immediately after the sun hit it. It also was bullet hard ice, so we brought tools but forgot screws. I had read about climbing the "Glacial Rib" to the left of Lambs Slide, but didn't feel comfortable enough venturing up into that terrain without more beta.
I'm thinking the scramble and then crossing of Lambs Slide higher up would be easier for a few reasons. There would be less weight to carry, as we wouldn't have to carry crampons or boots for kicking steps, and maybe just approach shoes with micro-spikes, an ax, and maybe a screw just in case. That would bring my pack weight down to really make car-to-car a lot more feasible for my level of aerobic fitness.
If we didn't have to bivy, then we could avoid having to worry about getting back to Chasm via Camel Couloir or Chasm View Raps. I'm just seeing more wins with this approach.
I guess if anyone has better beta on it, I'm all ears!
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atalarico
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Re: Kiener's/Lambs Slide on Longs
*bump*
Did anyone get a good shot of Lambs Slide this weekend, or perhaps have experience scrambling the Glacier Rib next to it? Thanks!
Did anyone get a good shot of Lambs Slide this weekend, or perhaps have experience scrambling the Glacier Rib next to it? Thanks!
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Broken Knee
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Re: Kiener's/Lambs Slide on Longs
I've descended the Glacier Rib in lousy conditions (wet/icy) because my partner "accidentally" didn't bring crampons in late season descending from Stettner's. Obviously, I survived... It had some loose junk and at times we stepped onto Lambs Slide to get around a slick spot. I'd prefer crampons/axe or some sort of micro-spike because Lamb's is a fast ascent, even icy.atalarico wrote:*bump*
Did anyone get a good shot of Lambs Slide this weekend, or perhaps have experience scrambling the Glacier Rib next to it? Thanks!
When life gets you down, climb!
Re: Kiener's/Lambs Slide on Longs
Rib is pretty basic. Peppered by rock buzzers one Aug so we went up a cl3 dihedral left of the rib at 3rd with a 4th top out to gain the rib (easier slightly more left). The rib was basic scrambling and not too memorable up until near the Broadway elevation - rock quality forced us right and up around a face and the scrambling was a bit more loose. Still, nothing to write home about. Not too hairy going up and over the snow, just a bit loose. I'd take a tool and crampons to cross.
"The road to alpine climbing is pocked and poorly marked, ending at an unexpectedly closed gate 5 miles from the trailhead." - MP user Beckerich
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Broken Knee
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AlexeyD
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Re: Kiener's/Lambs Slide on Longs
About a month ago, while climbing Lamb's Slide to the Loft in excellent neve conditions (no rockfall whatsoever), we observed two climbers who also "forgot" snow gear try to ascend the broken rock on the right side up towards Broadway. I couldn't tell whether they were successful, and the terrain may get a bit more than 3rd class, but if you're doing Kieners it means you probably have a rope and some rock gear anyway, so this could be a reasonable way to ascend without needing to ever get on the Slide.
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atalarico
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Re: Kiener's/Lambs Slide on Longs
Thanks for the info! That's a great photo, btw!
Yeah, there is still a crossing/traverse involved, but we scramble faster than snow/ice climb. We'll likely still be bringing actual crampons and at least one tool and a screw just in case. I'd hate to get turned around because it's ice and we didn't bring the ice gear we own for this exact purpose! hah
The weather is looking iffy, so it might not go for other reasons.
Thanks again, all!
Yeah, there is still a crossing/traverse involved, but we scramble faster than snow/ice climb. We'll likely still be bringing actual crampons and at least one tool and a screw just in case. I'd hate to get turned around because it's ice and we didn't bring the ice gear we own for this exact purpose! hah
The weather is looking iffy, so it might not go for other reasons.
Thanks again, all!
