Castle from Conundrum Hot Springs is loose

[SoCool]

A user named AT14er posted back in 2007, said Castle's West Ridge was class 3+, posted some pics, but again- getting up Castleabra is loose. Recently Mojah ascended Castle's West Ridge (from remote southern approach), hope it's okay to use his pic of Conundrum from Castle's west ridge:

15295_9_l.jpg (325.76 KiB) Viewed 986 times

The left skyline is Conundrum's west ridge, which is supposed to be the top of the green "route." From this angle, it sure doesn't look like it goes, and it sure didn't look feasible when I was there. Also the red route Roach's West Face should ascend in the center of the photo- anyone that's done it feel free to draw a red line!!

[tree_beard]

I created a trip report to describe our route, our troubles and my advices.

I have some pictures in the report but I do have others if you want them for planning just send me a message.

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... m=tripuser" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[SoCool]

Tree-beard deserves a big thank you for his TR. I'm pretty sure he is on the green "route" for the high portion. My focus is on the very top portion, which I found dangerous. He wrote, "...it gets more sketchy near the top.... The cliff bands may be considered Class 4." Point being this is not a great way despite the many rumors of a locals route.

He also seems to be of the mindset that it doesn't have to be fun to be fun. (This is often true.)


EDIT: He was not on the green route drawn on the first post of this thread, but he also doesn't seem to be on red Roach WF up high, as he said, "We used Roach's 25r4 Castle Peak- West Face route." (Also the # for Castle WF is 25.3, or is different in other editions maybe.) He adhered mostly, to cross Con creek and ascend the lower portion of Castle's west basin but must have deviated left to top out on Conundrum. So all I'm trying to say is: IMO he was on the green route for the highest final portion of the ridge ascent, which is what I classified as dangerous IMO.

EDIT2: Also IMO it is a poor name that Gerry Roach selected for the Roach's West Face Route, because it attains Castle/Con saddle rather than the actual Castle W face all the way to summit.

[SoCool]

This is the view of the upper portion of Conundrum's west ridge, green "route", which I found horrible but tree_beard enjoyed, "Stay ridge proper all the way to the top of the 'point' which will put you just next to the summit of conundrum.":

Upper portion of Con W Ridge.jpg (344.34 KiB) Viewed 778 times

This is a view of Castleabra (closest peak) viewed from the east, it can be traversed, purple route, to attain Castle's West Ridge route:

Castleabra viewed from the east.jpg (321.48 KiB) Viewed 778 times

We need to hear from more people who have attempted from Conundrum Hot Springs!!

[SoCool]

Heck, while we're at it we may as well rant about the false paths high on Castle's Standard NE Ridge. It's rarely mentioned even though heaps of folks get off-route. In a twist of irony that seems to mock me, one of the crappy websites that I usually detest does mention it, "Look to your left and you will see a strong trail that leads to Castles NE ridge. Then follow the ridge proper the rest of the way to the summit. Several trails lead off to one side or the other of the ridge that appear easier at first, don't be fooled stay on the top of the ridge. "

[SoCool]

Which route is in Dawson's Guide?

Anybody? Bueller, Bueller... ... ...

EDIT: I had to go all the way TO THE LIBRARY to determine that Dawson's route 4.3.5 is identical to Roach's West Face 25.3.
EDIT2: Yesterday I was in Aspen and asked staff at every hiking shop in town: all had heard the rumors of an easy locals route, none could confirm.

We need to hear from more people who have attempted from Conundrum Hot Spring!

EDIT3: On 10/12/14 I completed a circumnavigation of Castleabra, see TR or anyone can PM me for more info: castle summit just out of picture on left side:

View from Hunter Pk, descended Cunning Couloir, circumnavigation of Castleabra.jpg (250.02 KiB) Viewed 345 times

[DaveLanders]

A direct quote from Roach's (3rd edition) description: "This basin is full of obnoxious talus, and this route is best done when the rocks are
completely snow-covered." Sometimes it helps to read the fine print.

[kaiman]

I climbed the purple route over Castebra to Conundrum from the hot springs back in 2007 I believe. We had originally planned on climbing Castle as well but stopped short on Conundums summit as it was getting late and we still had to retrace our route back to the hot springs.

It was a long day and I remember the worst part being getting from the hot springs to the saddle on Castlebra. It's loose, steep, and tedious for sure. Once on the ridge it was Class 3-3+ scrambling on stuff that is similar to Castle's standard route but more technical with a few route finding sections. It was interesting at the time but I don't think I'd do it again.

Kai