Wetterhorn with snow/ice

[AlexeyD]

How dangerous is the third-class section and ledges when covered in snow and ice? Thinking of heading up this weekend and want to know what people's experiences have been.

[colokeith]

It totally depends on your experience and equipment.

From my recolection it would not be bad if you were careful. The route is not "slabby" climbing. The most exposed section has good sized ledges that would be doable with snow on them. If ice is present on these ledges you would certainly want traction.

I recall one sloping slab near the ships prow that would be sketchy with ice on it.

Disclaimer I did have not climbed this in the snowy season.

[AlexeyD]

It totally depends on your experience and equipment.

From my recolection it would not be bad if you were careful. The route is not "slabby" climbing. The most exposed section has good sized ledges that would be doable with snow on them. If ice is present on these ledges you would certainly want traction.

I recall one sloping slab near the ships prow that would be sketchy with ice on it.

Disclaimer I did have not climbed this in the snowy season.

Thanks. Bringing and using (correctly) spikes, crampons, an axe, and second tool, in any combination of these depending on what conditions dictate, would not be an issue; just trying to figure out what it entails.

For comparison, how would you say it stands up to various parts of the Keyhole route on Longs?

[colokeith]

I would say it is similar to Longs would be harder in snowy conditions. The chockstone at the top of the trough and homestretch are probably harder in snow than the final part of wetterhorn.

The trough would climb similarly to the gully before the ships prow.

[bigredmachine]

While some ledges do exist, it is rather exposed, and a fall would be very bad. It was no big deal in summer conditions, but I'd think it would be quite skethcy on any ice.

[DoctorBreaks]

I remember Wetterhorn being basically like a staircase. It was exposed, but from what I can remember there would have to be considerable amounts of ice to make it dangerous. This is my opinion. Others might have a different experience.

[GeorgiaTyler]

I certainly wouldn't do it, and i'm pretty comfortable on semi steep snow. Very high consequence on that exposed section.

[Kevin Baker]

Snow conditions on Wetterhorn can be highly variable, but generally there is a decent chance you will find the crux ledges dry after a long dry spell since it is s.w. facing. There are some spots that I faced in on in winter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoXKdHU ... LMW7LrK9Pg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[I Man]

Snow conditions on Wetterhorn can be highly variable, but generally there is a decent chance you will find the crux ledges dry after a long dry spell since it is s.w. facing. There are some spots that I faced in on in winter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoXKdHU ... LMW7LrK9Pg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Agreed. I thought the crux was pretty reasonable in snow and didn't have much experience. Getting to it was almost more difficult. I haven't done it in dry conditions though so I don't know "how much" harder it would be. No second tool needed and likely no crampons, especially if you don't have experience climbing rock in crampons.

[Marmot72]

Wetterhorn is one of my favorite peaks. I should get down there in the snowy months for that experience, since I've only climbed it dry.

Going up on that thing is no sweat and I imagine no problem right now. Coming back down (because no other egress exists), you really feel the exposure and so, as Kevin Baker mentions, I'd expect it's more common than not to face in for several feet along the way on the descent.

The thing that I am uncertain of is the snow - because the final pitch is exposed, with some air between ledges - would the snow obscure or make some parts appear solid that are only unconsolidated snow underneath. I think you'd have some great views this time of year and the forecast is good, so by no means and I'm dissuading you from an attempt, but just be cautious -- and post a report!

Good luck!

-Steve

[Yikes]

Snow conditions on Wetterhorn can be highly variable, but generally there is a decent chance you will find the crux ledges dry after a long dry spell since it is s.w. facing. There are some spots that I faced in on in winter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoXKdHU ... LMW7LrK9Pg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Baker's video has a little more snow than I experienced on my Winter ascent a few years ago. There was snow on the ledges, but it wasn't like climbing a snow filled gully.

[Summit Stomper]

Ok