First Ever Winter Ascent

[TomPierce]

I've done Sherman many times in winter, here are my thoughts on a late December ascent, in no particular order. When you drive up the road, the county stops maintenance just below the Leavick mine. Varies year to year exactly where. Unless you can see sustained dirt on the road, do NOT go past the maintenance snow berm, you will almost certainly get stuck, 4wd or not. Snowshoes often helpful from parking area for first mile or so, then road typically is wind blasted bare. If there's enough snow you probably will need them on the descent when the temps are higher and the snow is softer. Big tips: Mittens and full balaclavas, Sherman's winter wind is notorious and will come at you face-on on the ascent, can get nasty early in the morning. Higher up although unlikely, there are areas where I'd be cautious about a slide, past the second big mine building (is that the Dauntless??). Again, unlikely but there is a mini headwall of sorts before you get to the saddle and in heavier snow situations I've skirted it on the far left. Generally just stay on the rocks. Once on the saddle go up the ridge, wind generally really picks up there. Ridge up to the summit can get icy between the rocks. Nothing major, but a slip there is very possible without traction or caution. The summit isn't well defined in a whiteout, it's the second highpoint you reach.

That's about it. Pretty straightforward ascent, but I'll echo the suggestions above to do the route beforehand. It's a pretty easy ascent as far as winter ascents go, but if I had a larger group of new winter climbers I'd want to have the route wired, esp if conditions fall apart higher up on the descent and you come down in limited visibility.

Good luck, have fun, be safe.

-Tom

PS: If we can make a date work I'd be happy to do a recon climb of Sherman with you.

[AyeYo]

To answer your snowshoe question without lecture or condescension...

I haven't been out to Sherman, but I have been out in that direction every weekend for the last month and was just out at Kenosha this past Sunday. South facing slopes are still sparse on snow cover unless you're deep in tree cover or coming through a drift/shaded area. With that said, I have put my snowshoes on for at least a segment of every single hike I've done in the past month - sometimes because of consistent snow cover (mostly on north facing slopes and in the trees) or sometimes because of prolonged sections of drifts I didn't feel like slogging through. Even if you don't need them the entire way up, you'll need them for the approach and they'll likely at least help beyond that, even if you don't actually need to have them on. So, yes, if they're looking for at least a partial snowshoe climb, they will certainly get one.

That said, I will echo the ice axe requirement. I left mine at home a couple weeks ago on the assumption that the route was largely flat. While actually out on the hike, I decided to go down a ~50ft slope to check out some mine ruins. Getting down was gravy. Getting back up wasn't so fun. You never know what situation you'll end up running into and it's not hard to carry an axe. Don't leave it at home until all the snow is gone.

[mountaingoat-G]

Slightly off topic, but does anyone here climb with two Whippets instead of a dedicated ice axe?

[BenfromtheEast]

Slightly off topic, but does anyone here climb with two Whippets instead of a dedicated ice axe?

No.

[mtree]

Be prepared for extra mileage. You'll likely have to start from Leavick Mine or even further out depending on road conditions.

Bring snowshoes. Also microspikes. Ice axe is not needed as long as you stay on route. Assuming you're taking the WINTER route, I suggest cutting to the right about 2/3 up the final Sherman pitch between Sherman and White to reach the saddle/ridge. Then hike directly to Sherman along the ridge. Although it adds a little more distance, this alleviates the potential steepness on hardpack or ice on the summit approach. Use your judgement depending on conditions. This is where microspikes are super handy.

This winter route (different than the standard route) is seldom windy until the summit, but has some interesting obstacles and decisions. Because the lower areas collect snow, be careful where you tread. There can be deeeeep holes of snow. The rest is just common sense.

My take on an ice axe: Unless you know how to use it, and have practiced, its just a short trekking pole. Have fun!

[Voshkm]

Thank you Madbuck, the party will consist of 4 adults and 2 well heeled teenagers who have some experience, not a mob of miscreants. I am not afraid to turn the crew around if the conditions don't cooperate, we have had to before, in Colorado it will happen again. Also thank you mTree for the comments on the Winter route, my investigation had suggested that no one would do the southwest ridge in the winter and that it isn't particularly safe to do so. Its the "winter" route that I was interested in. the fact that it is not the standard route leaves me concerned that if there isn't enough snow it may not be a viable route at all while the southwest ridge isn't a good option either. If the winter route really isn't used till march I thought someone would let us know. I appreciate all the info particularly on the winter route and previous experience in late December on the winter route. We just did Quandry in late October and I don't particularly want to repeat it back to back. Beirstadt I have my on for a combined hike with Evans across sawtooth. If someone has a better suggestion than Sherman winter route I am listening, please post your reasons too. But again from what I have read some feel the winter route of Sherman is in itself easier than the southwest ridge and is particularly unlikely to have avalanche which will decreases likelihood of success.

[Scott P]

my investigation had suggested that no one would do the southwest ridge in the winter and that it isn't particularly safe to do so.

I've done the southwest ridge twice in winter (via Leavick) and both times it was stable (one of those times was in late December). The reason why is that it was either very windblown or most of the snow had been blown off. After a big snowstorm, however, it could slide, more specifically the steeper slopes leading to the Sherman-Sheridan saddle. If such conditions are present, the alternate winter route will be much safer.

Its the "winter" route that I was interested in. the fact that it is not the standard route leaves me concerned that if there isn't enough snow it may not be a viable route at all while the southwest ridge isn't a good option either.

If there isn't enough snow on the alternate winter route, then the slopes to the southwest ridge will likely (but not always) be sparse too, so the Southwest Ridge may be a good bet. You will have to assess the conditions and situation very carefully though. Typically Sherman gets more snow in late winter and spring that in does earlier in the winter.

I'd say most of the time in late December, the Southwest Ridge is usually stable, but when it isn't (and you should know how to asses conditions), steer clear!

If someone has a better suggestion than Sherman winter route I am listening, please post your reasons too.

Personally, I think Sherman is a good choice. Depending on conditions and road closures it can be either easier or more difficult than Quandary or Bierstadt. It depends on the road closure and conditions.

The first time I climb that side of the mountain in winter (December 23 2006), the road wasn't even plowed to Leavick, so it was a long slog. The second time I climbed it in winter (January 19 2013), we were able to drive all the way to 12,000 feet in a 4wd. This was by far the easiest winter ascent I've ever had on a 14er.

But again from what I have read some feel the winter route of Sherman is in itself easier than the southwest ridge and is particularly unlikely to have avalanche which will decreases likelihood of success.

I don't think the alternate winter route is easier. It is just safer if the standard summer route is snow loaded.

The party will consist of 4 adults and 2 well heeled teenagers who have some experience, not a mob of miscreants.

I know I'm beating a dead horse here, but it would still be better to have someone along who has winter 14er (or at least 13er) experience (but perhaps not necessary you have four adults and two kids so you should be in good shape) when bringing kids aren't your own. If you were interested, finding others really isn't hard to do, especially on this forum. Unless you didn't want anyone else to come (and perhaps you wouldn't), if you posted for partners and it was a weekend, it is likely that several people on this forum will come along. If you call it a "gathering" chances are many people will come. I am booked up in December or otherwise I wouldn't mind joining (I have a teenager too). If you don't take others along however, it seems that you have a good head on your shoulders and that like nothing bad will come of it. I wish you the best of luck in this regard.

There is nothing wrong with teenagers climbing 14ers in winter (n fact kids need to get out more!) and nothing wrong with doing 14ers for your first time in winter. My son climbed Sherman in January at age 10 and my daughter started climbing winter 13ers at age 9.

This isn't criticism, but you seem to be preoccupied with the possible snow conditions. My own advice on that part is to not worry about that on the particular side of the mountain you are planning on climbing on. If snow is sparse and you check conditions (or bring someone along who can), you could do the standard route and if snow is heavy, the alternate winter route should be a good bet (though you still have to check conditions!). I wouldn't worry about too much or too little snow as there are route alternatives for either condition. I would however, worry about the wind and cold. It should not be underestimated. It can be cool and peasant or brutally cold in late December at that elevation.

I've noticed that at least with me, it took some trial and error to get the proper methods down for dealing with the cold and wind. It even varies from person to person. For example, I've noticed that my nose sticks out far and thus finding a good facemask has been challenging. I don't have good circulation in my toes (which wasn't evident to me until I started climbing in winter), so extra care there is needed. On the other hand, the rest of my body seems to be well built for the cold and I have gotten away scot-free while others have received frostbite on the same trip. Ever person seems to have different "quirks" that makes them either prone to more immune to frostite with different areas on the body or extremities.

I am not afraid to turn the crew around if the conditions don't cooperate

This is good and by far the most useful mountain skill anyone could have.

[Voshkm]

thanks to all who were supportive and provided constructive criticism for the attempt on Sherman. Although we were unable to peak we had a good time and experience building time on the mountain. An opportunity presented where we were able to provide assistance to another that ultimately cost our chances of summiting. A valuable, practical lesson of positive reinforcement, I hope that will set a precedent of valuing life over personal accomplishment and helping others over narrow personal goals. Would have been nice to have done both but will wait for another day.
Thanks again to advisors and thanks to 14ers for providing this invaluable resource.
KMVosh

[meg383]

How did the road look up to Sherman?

[Scott P]

Although we were unable to peak we had a good time and experience building time on the mountain. An opportunity presented where we were able to provide assistance to another that ultimately cost our chances of summiting. A valuable, practical lesson of positive reinforcement, I hope that will set a precedent of valuing life over personal accomplishment and helping others over narrow personal goals.

Care to elaborate? It sounds like there is a story involved. What happened up there? Did you come across someone injured?

[Voshkm]

Perhaps I was a bit dramatic in previous comment. The weather was about as good as it could be this time of year. 20F but very sunny we spent most of the time with hoods off jackets open letting the steam out. The Avalanche danger was reduced per CAIC and tbh Sherman was far too windswept in the areas we came across for Ave's. (there were some deep drifts in places ((like the road)) making snowshoes a most, as we wanted). Ah yes the road, its kinda single lane and there were some nice Texans stuck in the middle of the road not allowing any pass. Another nice CO couple (stuck behind the Texans) was there helping. We were given no choice but to jump out of the truck and shovel and push their very nice Honda Accord off to the side. The CO couple decided to let us go first cuz we had a 4x4 lifted truck with oversized tires and snow chains. They at least had a 4x4, not an accord. Tex didn't even have a shovel, or a clue on driving in snow, probably would of spent the night if we all didn't come along. By the time we got on the trail after that it was 10am, we made it up to Leavick Site about 11500 I believe, before parking. A decision I regret but the group was getting anxious to start so instead of clearing another drift we started. While the temp was very nice, felt like 40 in the sun, I am too, old and too slow too out of shape to snowshoe most of the way. We went the winter route for about 100 vertical feet and realized that we were way too slow to make summit that way, so we shifted over to the standard trail which still needed snow shoes from time to time. we made 13 and it was 2pm, not sure where the time went but one of the kids, was waning like the sun, the wind picked up at that ele. and in knew we weren't going to make it. I didn't want to push so hard that none it would suck fun out and be turn off on future hikes. As we called it off we could see the Texns hurrying up in our broken trail. After discussing sundown and overnite temps, happily the Texns came down as well. For the most part it was a good first calendar Winter attempt with snowshoes. I believe if we can hit as good a window as we did that Sunday we will be successful. It was a good lesson for the kids about helping others at the expense of summiting. I only wish I had gotten back into making time for the Mountains while I was younger and fitter. back to the elliptical for me

[madbuck]

Sounds like, all in all, you had a good day!
Glad to hear and thanks for sharing. I'm sure you'll all be up for more adventures. Cheers!