14ers easier in winter than summer

[DanielL]

Well, it's easier to avoid other people in the winter. It's also easier to have a good time (or an awful time, type II fun) IMO. Best of all, it's easier to ski.

[DanielL]

I feel I have to ask, what do you all think of Longs' standard route in this discussion? I'm specifically thinking of the route above the Keyhole. Obviously the conditions are 20 times more variable in winter (especially with wind), but when I did it in mid-fall a few years ago, the entire route was snow-covered and yet I found it to be considerably less difficult as far as physical exertion. The Trough and lower Homestretch were the only notably harder sections, with a mix of ice, wind-pack, and loose sugar.

With that, I'd agree with the general consensus that there are no easier 14ers in winter (unless you're extremely lucky). I would really like a winter summit of Longs, but we'll see.

[akoller]

I also did the keyhole route in the fall and had a great time, around what seems like the same time you did (Nov '13). I found it more strenuous than in summer, though, because I had to take more equipment (crampons, axe), but I agree that in some ways snow makes things simpler. However in winter proper I would be very scared of avalanches on the ledges. That area gets almost no sunlight and brutal winds.

[Brian C]

...what do you all think of Longs' standard route in this discussion? I'm specifically thinking of the route above the Keyhole...

Like you said it depends on conditions. I've been shut down on the ledges due to wind loaded snow and have seen it as dry as in the summer. My current belief is that the north face generally has the best access for winter ascents, but can also be an avy slope poised above the east face. I hope to get up there a few times this winter to check out different routes to see how they compare. Here's a photo of the ledges on the keyhole route a few years ago in late Feb or early March...

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[justiner]

Pardon the swearing, but the Keyhole route can be dicey, right off the bat, depending on snow conditions. The slabby ledges are is no joke. I think I was back a week later, and we brought gear just in case, and ascended the Loft instead, but opted to descend the Keyhole. When we got to parts like this, we roped up. It's an unsettling feeling with so much exposure. If the little slabby bit you're walking on, fails, you'll just tumble.

[Sugar Madison]

I like doing Longs via the Trough, from Black Lake, in winter. With stable snow (this is key) it's very straightforward and avoids all the icy ledges and minimizes time in the wind (vs going 75% of the way around the mountain via the Keyhole).

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[Brian C]

Justin. Those are the exact conditions that existed in the photo I posted. We only went a bit further and turned around on the 3rd snowfield we had to cross since it wasn't worth the conditions. It'd be a long tumble down to Black Lake from the ledges.

[CreekRunner]

Is there any possibility of doing Evans on a bike in winter? From the looks of the only trip report I could find on hiking it, there is possibly a 5 foot or so width on the road that isn't covered in snow.

It has to be easier in winter too because you don't have to worry about all those cars!

[Monster5]

Given winter or winterish:
I think Cables is easiest on Longs in great snow conditions and Trough direct in average conditions. Keyhole is generally only easier in early winter when Cables is iced over and snow hasn't yet accumulated significantly on the ledges (and Black Lake requires flotation). Keplinger's is a slog and loft can be annoying. Kiener's was a fairly brutal slog too. None of those are remotely easier in winter than in summer.

Edit - didn't summitlounger or somebody do Evans via fat tire bike in winter?

[logan14er]

Are scree fields easier in the winter?
I've seen it suggested to climb Lindsey and Snowmass when they're still snow covered.

Does glissading down ever save enough effort to make some slopes easier round trip?

That's not a winter thing (specifically), but if your route ascends a gulley that, when dry, is full of loose rocks and rubble, it's quite possible that it's a nice snow climb. That snow needs to be consolidated, so the season is usually Spring/Summer. If the snow is unconslidated, then the gulley is full of loose rocks, rubble, and you're wallowing in knee/hip deep snow.

As for efficiency, I would say, perhaps. If you're well-conditioned to climb straight up on snow, then slide straight down, that could be quite the speed run roundtrip. Gotta hit the conditions perfectly, where the snow is set up nice and firm for you to ascend, and is soft enough (but not too soft) to descend.

You're probably better off with a pair of skis, at that point, provided you can huck up the mountain with the added weight.

So you're saying that Snowmass in June is easier than in August? Are there any more 14'ers that are like that, earier in late spring than summer?

[screeman57]

So you're saying that Snowmass in June is easier than in August? Are there any more 14'ers that are like that, earier in late spring than summer?

I'd suggest (and think many here would agree) that Little Bear is both easier and safer in late Spring than in summer, given good snow conditions.