Elk Range - North Maroon & Capitol

[Gene913]

Will do my two remaining Elk Range 14ers this summer: North Maroon and Capitol
Traveling from the Kansas City area, plus having to schedule time off from work in advance, means I have to give heightened consideration to the critical factors of weather and conditions.
Have to commit to take a week off work, so this decision can spell the difference between success and failure.
Knowing the weather is unpredictable and variable, and that what is generally true condition-wise can be completely undone in any given year, here's my question:
Are the standard routes on these two peaks typically accessible by mid-June? Appreciate any insights and help.

[wineguy]

Gene, Asking about accessibility is a little ambiguous, as there are folks who've been up these peaks throughout the year. But snow typically lingers on most 14ers well into June. I think most El Nino winters get above average snow, which should be relevant this year. I went up Capitol on July 25, 2011 (after a snowy winter), and we spent lots of time on snow. But it was plenty soft and we didn't use crampons, just axes. If you want to avoid snow, I highly recommend you wait until later in the year.

[Doug Shaw]

Given your constraints, June is risky. I'd suggest looking at late August or September when the snow is usually gone and the summer afternoon thunderstorms are usually starting to calm down.

[Gene913]

Gene, Asking about accessibility is a little ambiguous, as there are folks who've been up these peaks throughout the year. But snow typically lingers on most 14ers well into June. I think most El Nino winters get above average snow, which should be relevant this year. I went up Capitol on July 25, 2011 (after a snowy winter), and we spent lots of time on snow. But it was plenty soft and we didn't use crampons, just axes. If you want to avoid snow, I highly recommend you wait until later in the year.

Good point, John - better phrased question is "are the standard routes on these two peaks typically accessible by mid-June without needing to use crampons?"

[EatinHardtack]

One thing you can do is go to the trip report page and isolate the general time you want to climb each peak with the search function. Doing this can give you a great idea on what conditions have been in the past during your timeframe.

[Gene913]

One thing you can do is go to the trip report page and isolate the general time you want to climb each peak with the search function. Doing this can give you a great idea on what conditions have been in the past during your timeframe.

Good idea. Looks like early July is typically a good bet.

[MUni Rider]

I've found that most of the 14ers are nearly completely, (especially the trails), snow free, and the least chance of heavy rain, mid to late August. Afternoon weather is always a crap shoot, every year differs a bit from the last, and January is pretty early for guesstimates on summer conditions, but that is when I usually schedule a peak or three each year. Your mileage may vary.

I plan to get North Maroon and Pyramid this year during that time frame, hopefully two or three more if I can swing enough time off. Maybe I'll pass you on the trail if you aim later than June-July, our "monsoon" season.

Good luck on when ever you decide.

Ed

[BKS]

gene:

as i'm sure you know, monsoon season is approximately mid-july to late august. the basins around capitol are some of the last to melt of any 14er area. aug 10th of last year snow was still unavoidable in the moon lake basin below k2. it didn't complicate the climb at all however, but I did carry an axe and spikes- and used them. n maroon melts out sooner.

if you want to avoid both snow and monsoonal weather patterns it does mean 1st week of sept, as snow can start sticking pretty soon in sept. however, if you have a week to do these two mountains odds are very high with early starts to knock both out - even in high monsoon season.

capitol from the lake takes most people 4-5 hours with another 1-1.5 hours to get from summit back to k2. so with 4am start its reasonably easy to be back in safe (mostly) zone by 11 am before weather moves in. between k2 and the lake its all class 2 and no higher consequence than any other 14er.

best wishes as these peaks are at the very top in terms of scenery and sense of accomplishment.

brian

[dennywitte]

My two sons and I climbed North Maroon on July 22 and Capitol on July 24 in 2015. No need for crampons at that time of year. We did use microspikes and ice axes on Capitol in the various snowfields that remained in the Moon Lake basin. The trip report for Capitol (with lots of pictures and video) is located at:

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

We did get soaked with steady rain from the Moon Lake basin back out to the trailhead.

[Rambler]

Gene,
We drove out from Olathe this past August 8th for Capitol. Left driveway at 6:30pm and we were in Glenwood Springs by 5am the 9th. Grabbed breakfast and supplies then drove to trailhead. On trail by 10:30am, had made camp at the lake by 2:30pm. Woke up at 4am the 10th, on trail by 4:30. Like others said there was a few small snow fields on the back side between the saddle and K2. I had traction (spikes, not cramps) but I never used them. If you go in July I would expect there to be more snow. Summit about 9am, back to camp by 12:30pm. Packed up, back to car by 5pm and drove straight home. The whole timing of the trip was a stupid idea but we got good weather (luck) and it was such a great time. Obviously I wouldn't do it door to door like that again but I just didn't have the luxury of time. I would have loved to spend a few more days out there just to camp. Good luck, you'll love it.