Wetterhorn

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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bkp003
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Joined: 7/10/2013
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Wetterhorn

Post by bkp003 »

Just summited Wetterhorn yesterday. There is still quite a bit of snow up there and it can't be avoided. We crossed sketch, steep, soft snow on a gully beneath ribs which we avoided on the way up by going behind the rib (very exposed!) and doing some class 3 scrambling. We didn't avoid it on the way down and the snow was very soft. An Ice axe and spikes are a must. It was first my encounter with steep snow like this and I was terrified. I've done early season climbing but not this steep. If you're going slow and the snow is soft, I'd try to take a different route up/down. Beautiful weather and a great accomplishment but next time I'd bring my helmet and not cross the snow-filled gully. If you're early and fast, snow may be harder and easier to traverse but even the short section we tossed was very scary. If you slid you'd be hurt badly or killed. Be safe out there!
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GregMiller
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Re: Wetterhorn

Post by GregMiller »

Might throw that over in the conditions reports, glad you made it safely.
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been scared and battered. My hopes the wind done scattered. Snow has friz me, Sun has baked me,
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XterraRob
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Re: Wetterhorn

Post by XterraRob »

bkp003 wrote:Just summited Wetterhorn yesterday. There is still quite a bit of snow up there and it can't be avoided. We crossed sketch, steep, soft snow on a gully beneath ribs which we avoided on the way up by going behind the rib (very exposed!) and doing some class 3 scrambling. We didn't avoid it on the way down and the snow was very soft. An Ice axe and spikes are a must. It was first my encounter with steep snow like this and I was terrified. I've done early season climbing but not this steep. If you're going slow and the snow is soft, I'd try to take a different route up/down. Beautiful weather and a great accomplishment but next time I'd bring my helmet and not cross the snow-filled gully. If you're early and fast, snow may be harder and easier to traverse but even the short section we tossed was very scary. If you slid you'd be hurt badly or killed. Be safe out there!
Those gullies below the summit can be a real problem when covered in deep snow, glad you are alright!
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AlexeyD
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Re: Wetterhorn

Post by AlexeyD »

bkp003 wrote:Just summited Wetterhorn yesterday. There is still quite a bit of snow up there and it can't be avoided. We crossed sketch, steep, soft snow on a gully beneath ribs which we avoided on the way up by going behind the rib (very exposed!) and doing some class 3 scrambling. We didn't avoid it on the way down and the snow was very soft. An Ice axe and spikes are a must. It was first my encounter with steep snow like this and I was terrified. I've done early season climbing but not this steep. If you're going slow and the snow is soft, I'd try to take a different route up/down. Beautiful weather and a great accomplishment but next time I'd bring my helmet and not cross the snow-filled gully. If you're early and fast, snow may be harder and easier to traverse but even the short section we tossed was very scary. If you slid you'd be hurt badly or killed. Be safe out there!
That sounds a lot like our experience on Wetterhorn almost exactly 1 year ago. It's definitely a more serious route when snow is present. Glad you're OK!
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