Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

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_jderbique
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Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by _jderbique »

I will be spending some time in Telluride July 20-27 for a baseball tournament. I was wondering what anyone's condition predictions will be on the Southwest slopes of Mount Wilson around July 26.

I have read the trip reports on July 10 for the San Juans with the overall theme being crampons and ice axe necessary. Will crampons be needed or could I get away with microspikes around that time of year?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Jack Derbique
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the toninator
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by the toninator »

No help sorry but are you staying at the Mountain Side Inn?
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scottaskinger
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by scottaskinger »

Just out of Navajo Basin camping and climbing WP/MTW/ELD. Lots of snow in basin and on mountain, however, I climbed ELD-traverse-MTW and no traction or axe is necessary. That doesn't answer your SW Slopes question but maybe gives you another option to consider. Let me know if you want more info. I approached from ROA trailhead.
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saxlover
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by saxlover »

mt wilson
mt wilson
13654202_773439275578_1956908428482694991_n.jpg (46.43 KiB) Viewed 725 times
i did that route with an ice ax and yak trax. really wish i didnt decide to leave the crampons in the car. that snow field is tucked in there a bit. http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatu ... ecnum=7095" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; [img][img][/img][/img]
Andrew Tobin
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by ameristrat »

This route holds snow very late into the summer. I would bring microspikes at a minimum and understand that there is a change you will need to turn around without an axe. I climbed it in early August a few years ago and was able to avoid most of the snow, though it was far more melted out than in the picture above. We did use microspikes.
You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know. - Rene Daumal
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_jderbique
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by _jderbique »

ameristrat wrote:This route holds snow very late into the summer. I would bring microspikes at a minimum and understand that there is a change you will need to turn around without an axe. I climbed it in early August a few years ago and was able to avoid most of the snow, though it was far more melted out than in the picture above. We did use microspikes.
Thanks for the input. I might attempt it or maybe some other peaks in the area with only microspikes. I am relatively new to climbing and don't own crampons or an axe yet. I will see how it goes and of course turn around if the snow gets to difficult. Thanks again.
Jack Derbique
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_jderbique
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by _jderbique »

saxlover wrote:
13654202_773439275578_1956908428482694991_n.jpg
i did that route with an ice ax and yak trax. really wish i didnt decide to leave the crampons in the car. that snow field is tucked in there a bit. http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatu ... ecnum=7095" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; [img][img][/img][/img]
Thanks for the personal input about the crampons. Did you in fact summit with only microspikes on the 10th? Also, I think I read your report recently when looking through the condition reports. Thanks again.
Jack Derbique
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_jderbique
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by _jderbique »

scottaskinger wrote:Just out of Navajo Basin camping and climbing WP/MTW/ELD. Lots of snow in basin and on mountain, however, I climbed ELD-traverse-MTW and no traction or axe is necessary. That doesn't answer your SW Slopes question but maybe gives you another option to consider. Let me know if you want more info. I approached from ROA trailhead.
When did you summit? What do you think the snow will be like in a week and a half or so? Thanks.
Jack Derbique
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by scottaskinger »

_jderbique wrote:
scottaskinger wrote:Just out of Navajo Basin camping and climbing WP/MTW/ELD. Lots of snow in basin and on mountain, however, I climbed ELD-traverse-MTW and no traction or axe is necessary. That doesn't answer your SW Slopes question but maybe gives you another option to consider. Let me know if you want more info. I approached from ROA trailhead.
When did you summit? What do you think the snow will be like in a week and a half or so? Thanks.
I summited Wilson Peak on Monday the 11th. No axe/traction necessary. I summited El Diente on Tuesday the 12th up the North Buttress route, no axe/traction necessary. After ELD I did the traverse over to Wilson. No axe/traction necessary. I then descended Mt. Wilson's North Slopes route. Near the top, I could have crossed over a snow field to get back to rock or glissased. I chose to glissade. I had an axe with me. If I chose to cross here, I would have put on my spikes. In another condition report there is supposedly a dirt/rock patch to cross, even higher up, but I didn't see it. If I were to go back again today I would at least bring my spikes for this section and/or an axe if I wanted to glissade.

Scott
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_jderbique
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Re: Condition Predictions for Mount Wilson

Post by _jderbique »

scottaskinger wrote:
_jderbique wrote:
scottaskinger wrote:Just out of Navajo Basin camping and climbing WP/MTW/ELD. Lots of snow in basin and on mountain, however, I climbed ELD-traverse-MTW and no traction or axe is necessary. That doesn't answer your SW Slopes question but maybe gives you another option to consider. Let me know if you want more info. I approached from ROA trailhead.
When did you summit? What do you think the snow will be like in a week and a half or so? Thanks.
I summited Wilson Peak on Monday the 11th. No axe/traction necessary. I summited El Diente on Tuesday the 12th up the North Buttress route, no axe/traction necessary. After ELD I did the traverse over to Wilson. No axe/traction necessary. I then descended Mt. Wilson's North Slopes route. Near the top, I could have crossed over a snow field to get back to rock or glissased. I chose to glissade. I had an axe with me. If I chose to cross here, I would have put on my spikes. In another condition report there is supposedly a dirt/rock patch to cross, even higher up, but I didn't see it. If I were to go back again today I would at least bring my spikes for this section and/or an axe if I wanted to glissade.

Scott
Thanks for all the info Scott. Sorry for the late reply as well. Some other things came up on our trip and I decided to go with Wetterhorn, which I actually submitted this morning July 27 with excellent conditions.
Jack Derbique
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