Sawtooth vs. Kelso ridge for class 3 introduction?

[vusteph]

Sawtooth was my first class 3. I'd rate it 10% type 2-3 fun, 80% routefinding, and 10% shitty gully descent and off-trail willow wallowing, I wouldn't do it again.
I did Long's right after, and I thought that was a much better class 3 intro. 90% type 1-2 fun, 10% sketch/exposure, highly recommended.
Haven't yet done Kelso ridge, sounds like I should!
Someone mentioned Wetterhorn, which is one of my very favorites, note that the class 3 (very fun) is only at the very end of the route.

I agree, Sawtooth was a lot of routefinding for me and the descent into the gully was awful. I found Kelso to be more technical and fun. I'd probably still do the Sawtooth again but as part of the Tour.

[JQDivide]

Do the Sawtooth first... only because you'll be disappointed in it after you do Kelso Ridge.
The Sawtooth is a classic must-do route, but it's only OK.
Kelso is fun.

Here is a great thread on Class 3.
http://www.14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=44573


JQ

[hokiehead]

Do the Sawtooth first... only because you'll be disappointed in it after you do Kelso Ridge.
The Sawtooth is a classic must-do route, but it's only OK.
Kelso is fun....

JQ

I second this. It's also the way I did my first two Class 3.

[emiller6]

Honestly, with either you can't go wrong. Just get out there and gain the experience. You WILL feel uncomfortable at first, but it's natural and that will pass with time/experience. My progression was Lindsey NW ridge --> Kelso Ridge --> Tour de Abyss. My initial brush with exposed class 3/4 was unnerving at first, but by the time I hit the Tour, it was pretty easy. The moves/exposure were non factors. Best part about all these routes is the rock is solid, with the worst (relatively) found on parts of Kelso.

Regardless, think less and do more. Get the beta, practice good risk management wrt early alpine starts/gear/etc, and get out there!

[AyeYo]

Saw this thread the other day and decided to try Sawtooth solo as a class 3 intro, going up Bierstadt and back to Guanella, rather than also up Evans. I didn't make a single class 3 move the entire route. The most difficult parts of the day were coming down the Evans/Spalding gully and trying not to drown in quicksand or lose my sanity in the willows. I don't even know how it's considered class 3 or a scrambling introduction, unless people are going out of their way to make it more difficult.

The climb off Bierstadt was by far the most dangerous section - and it was just dangerous dangerous, not fun dangerous. Here you can choose between tedious rock hopping on loose rocks the size of your fridge or simply falling/dirt surfing down whatever areas don't have large rocks. 7/8 of the ridge was down to easy route finding (the route given on this site is totally wrong at the rock tower section), aided by cairns littering the entire ridge and short sections of dirt trail that were easier than the hike Bierstadt. I only got off route once, and only because I listed to the directions/pictures on this site rather than the very obvious trail in front of me. The *correct* route up the rock tower (which drops all the way to the bottom, then goes back up) is no harder or exposed than the gully up the Evans/Spalding saddle, which this site rates as class 2. Once up the tower and into the notch, you have the option to choose between rolling the dice on certain death by taking the steep, totally loose dirt covered lower route across the ledge (which, once again, this site calls for as the standard path - pure insanity) or simply walking up a loose dirt slope, then walking across a flat, mostly shallow inclined ledge.

The views were great. It's cool to say I did it. I have some awesome pictures. It was entirely free of people. I also have no interest in doing it again. It contained nothing technically difficult or interesting, yet managed to include plenty of options for death via poor traction.

[atalarico]

but you're much more likely to have Father Dyer to yourself.

Between you and Jim blabbing about Father Dyer, that won't be the case for long!

I kid, I kid, it is actually a great recommendation, and it's protected from crowds by simply not being higher. It's technically not even it's own peak, but neither is the most appealing climb on Lone Eagle, so you won't catch me caring given how pretty it is!

If OP's friend catches the climbing bug, Dyer will just feed the addiction since you look around at at least two other phenomenal looking scrambles (Helen's West Ridge and Quandary's West Ridge). Feed the addiction!

[DeTour]

This thread is very convincing: Tour d'Abyss is the way to experience Bierstadt and Evans. I considered that route to be a blast. The rock quality on Bierstadt's east ridge is second only to Crestone conglomerate IMO among the 14ers I've been on.

On the descent from Bierstadt to the Sawtooth saddle, the standard trail may be tame, but you can spice it up as much as you want by climbing the gendarmes along the ridge proper. Also, after the crossover, the second half of the ledge route has a "low way" and a "high way." We took the "high way" and were glad we did. It was fun and solid. You can also pick up West Evans on your way to Evans if you're into sub-peaks like that.

[bichito]

This thread is very convincing: Tour d'Abyss is the way to experience Bierstadt and Evans. I considered that route to be a blast. The rock quality on Bierstadt's east ridge is second only to Crestone conglomerate IMO among the 14ers I've been on.

On the descent from Bierstadt to the Sawtooth saddle, the standard trail may be tame, but you can spice it up as much as you want by climbing the gendarmes along the ridge proper. Also, after the crossover, the second half of the ledge route has a "low way" and a "high way." We took the "high way" and were glad we did. It was fun and solid. You can also pick up West Evans on your way to Evans if you're into sub-peaks like that.

I just did tour de abyss today. the east ridge is a blast but it may not be the easiest of the intros to class 3. Once in Bierstadt's summit, it becomes a circus. I would recommend a helmet to scramble down towards sawtooth. too many people moving above you

[Jim Davies]

When you're looking from Father Dyer toward Quandary, you're looking over yet another good long class 3 route, the east ridge of Pacific.

[Hershel]

It has already been said, but I'm going to downvote Sawtooth because it has such a miserable ending (it's a slog down the gulley and through the willows and if you hike to Evans behand you're probably very exhausted). Tottaly worth it...but maybe not what you're looking for.

I would actually suggest Longs if you're ok with a long hike. It has longer class 3 sections and less exposure then Kelso or Sawtooth. So it's perhaps easier.

[12ersRule]

The fun factor on Kelso is 10x that of the Sawtooth.

Kelso starts off fairly gently and the toughest move is towards the end.

[PaliKona]

Am thinking about trying Kelso Ridge this September. I climbed the ridge past the first class 3 section years ago, but had to turn back because my friend's ankle turned and was super painful for him.

I'm definitely nervous and worry about getting in over my head. My current hiking partner hasn't done class 3 either. We both are worried about the exposure.

I've had no exposure issues on any of the mountains I've done, but sense that it's there. Some examples of hikes I've been fine with: Castle, South Arapahoe, Hagar (class 3 summit), scrambling along the west ridgeline of Evans (way above the west ridge route), Holy Cross, La Plata, minor scrambling in the Flatirons.

Obviously Kelso is a step up but should I be looking elsewhere? Are there bailouts at all in case we're not feeling it? For instance, I thought I read somewhere that if you're not feeling great about the Knife Edge, you can bail out to the north around it?

Any help is appreciated.