Alternate routes

[herdbull]

Thanks everyone. I'll print these out, put them in the book and utilize them when planning the next trip. It will help with options and the logistics.

I'll probably throw in the other 2 Grand Traverses that I didn't get to on this last trip as well. Any other routes in Roach's book you recommend?

[scottaskinger]

+1 on the ridge routes. I will add the following:

1. 13er "Pointfest" that leads to San Luis
2. North Buttress route on El Diente, followed by traverse
3. Mt. Sneffels SW Ridge from Blue Lakes
4. North Massive to Massive via North Ridge route (Windsor Lake TH) and descending East Ridge route. Very challenging loop hike that ends up at Native Lake TH, probably about 50 yards away from your car.
5. Grays Peak SW Ridge route from Chihuahua Gulch TH. I saw nobody the entire morning and then 50 people on top.

[DeTour]

El Diente and/or Mt. Wilson from Kilpacker would be considered an alternate route, although it may be as popular as the "standard" north slopes routes for these two peaks now, not sure. The gully ascent of ED from Kilpacker sounds considerably less exposed than the north buttress route. I haven't done the latter, but have done the Kilpacker route, and it's not especially exposed. But the buttress sounds pretty solid and the Kilpacker route has a lot of loose talus, so there's the tradeoff.

I hope to get back there sometime in the next few years to complete the ED-Mt. Wilson traverse, with ascent to ED to, and descent from Mt. Wilson from, Kilpacker. Bill M. put up route descriptions for both routes since the time I was first there, great resource there.

[hokiehead]

Halo's Ridge on Mt of the Holy Cross.
Kelso Ridge on Torreys Peak.

[scottaskinger]

El Diente and/or Mt. Wilson from Kilpacker would be considered an alternate route, although it may be as popular as the "standard" north slopes routes for these two peaks now, not sure. The gully ascent of ED from Kilpacker sounds considerably less exposed than the north buttress route. I haven't done the latter, but have done the Kilpacker route, and it's not especially exposed. But the buttress sounds pretty solid and the Kilpacker route has a lot of loose talus, so there's the tradeoff.

I hope to get back there sometime in the next few years to complete the ED-Mt. Wilson traverse, with ascent to ED to, and descent from Mt. Wilson from, Kilpacker. Bill M. put up route descriptions for both routes since the time I was first there, great resource there.

I have little experience on class 4 and I thought the ElD North Buttress route was pretty straightforward and solid. I didn't find it anymore difficult than class 3. The one exception for me was on the grey slabs. Only on them for a minute or two but a little different as there is not much to climb on and the exposure is pretty substantial. Traverse has one tougher section and I had to take my time with route finding in a couple of areas. Overall, I loved this route and would do it again.

[XterraRob]

I have little experience on class 4 and I thought the ElD North Buttress route was pretty straightforward and solid. I didn't find it anymore difficult than class 3. The one exception for me was on the grey slabs. Only on them for a minute or two but a little different as there is not much to climb on and the exposure is pretty substantial. Traverse has one tougher section and I had to take my time with route finding in a couple of areas. Overall, I loved this route and would do it again.

Thanks for the info, I want to go back and do the Tooth and the rest from Navajo. Did El D from Kilpacker and that scree ascent/descent just straight up sucked!!