How bad is the exposure on Castle Peak?

[denvernoob]

I'm planning on doing Castle Peak via the NE ridge next weekend, and I've been sifting through trip reports and photos to try and get a feel for what this hike is like. People seem to have a variety of reactions to the exposure on this peak - I've heard it described as "moderate" as well as "terrifying". Seems that some people get off route and come across more intense exposure, but still. How bad is it really? For reference, I've hiked Mt Elbert, Mt Bierstadt, and Mt Sherman but was never bothered by exposure on those.

Any feedback or advice is much appreciated. I won't be taking the Castle-Conundrum glissade down, but I may bring an axe or crampons for ascending the snowfields at the beginning of the hike. Is that necessary? Thanks!

[Black Bear]

I wouldn't let the exposure bother you, it is minimal on Castle. If you have done the standard routes on Elbert, Sherman, and Bierstadt then there will be more exposure on Castle. If you have done the Sawtooth on Bierstadt, then Castle will be less exposure. I realize some people are more scared about heights and exposure than others, but it really isn't bad at all on Castle.
As far as the snowfields, crampons help out on the ascent, but it is definitely possible to do it without them. On the descent, sliding on your butt like a water slide or plunge stepping is easiest.

[STIBungy]

There's only one section that has exposure on Castle. It's on the south side of the ridge about 100' from the summit. It's a very short section.

[SoCool]

I've heard it described as "moderate" as well as "terrifying". Seems that some people get off route and come across more intense exposure

The primary reason there are so many reports of "terrifying," is because of a very pronounced false path that leads people off route. I'm fairly certain this area is shown in photo #18 in the route description on this site. Imagine the hiker on the ridge going to the right there, instead of straight up along the crest.

For many people, this peak is their introduction to the Elk Range, and they feel it's harder than their previous class 2 experience. But for very experienced scramblers, yeah sure they would call it moderate. Regardless, the standard NE ridge route can be quite dangerous if wet or icy.

[dr_j]

It's easy to get off route, you do have to look carefully for the stacked rocks "blocking" the false paths. I recall that the route along the ridge crosses between climbers' left and right.

The last part, after the brief downclimb, is exposed, there's this obvious 10 ft. red rock blocking the summit, and I found it best to just climb up and over that section, the rock is fairly solid. The stuff to the left, where many people go, is loose and crumbly.

[spiderman]

I tend to be a big weenie when it comes to exposure, defined by being able to hurt myself if I fell. For Castle Peak, I personally can't remember any issue at all. I never think twice about Colorado Class 2 peaks. Perhaps it could be bothersome if you get off route. The summit slope averages about 30-35 degrees which ain't too bad for me if it isn't all icy.

[Monte Meals]

I climbed Castle last Wednesday. Yes, there are some
class 3 moves - but only if you choose to use them.

I had a great time exploring the ridge crest leading to
the summit. Yes, some of the "apparent" routes lead to
class 3 & 4 moves, but I could always backtrack and find
the class 2 route. Take you time and enjoy the mountain !

My only real advice is this: The talus and scree is miserable
above 12,800 ft.
Fortunately, there is still sufficient snow to avoid much of the
suffer fest. However, you will need strap-on crampons (not
microspikes) and an ice axe.

[DeTour]

The primary reason there are so many reports of "terrifying," is because of a very pronounced false path that leads people off route. I'm fairly certain this area is shown in photo #18 in the route description on this site. Imagine the hiker on the ridge going to the right there, instead of straight up along the crest.

Our group got suckered into that false path. There were a couple sections of very steep, loose rubble. I wouldn't call it terrifying but it was serious business to be sure, and I could see how some would be pretty freaked out in such terrain. I tried to describe where and how we got off-route in detail in my TR. If you want to check it out to avoid the same mistake, you can access it through my profile or find it in the TRs from 2013.

The other potentially "terrifying" part of Castle is if one chooses to descend from the Castle-Conundrum saddle in a year with minimal snow. There are threads in the forum about how loose and sketchy that route is when snow is melted out. But I assume there would be plenty of snow remaining next weekend to alleviate any concern about that particular route.

[FCSquid]

I've heard it described as "moderate" as well as "terrifying". Seems that some people get off route and come across more intense exposure

The primary reason there are so many reports of "terrifying," is because of a very pronounced false path that leads people off route. I'm fairly certain this area is shown in photo #18 in the route description on this site. Imagine the hiker on the ridge going to the right there, instead of straight up along the crest.

For many people, this peak is their introduction to the Elk Range, and they feel it's harder than their previous class 2 experience. But for very experienced scramblers, yeah sure they would call it moderate. Regardless, the standard NE ridge route can be quite dangerous if wet or icy.

Same happened to me on a solo hike last year. A simple backtrack fixed the problem. I think the rule-of-thumb is if this ridge all of a sudden becomes a Class 3 / 3+ experience, you're off-route.

[denvernoob]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Just wanted to report back after taking a shot at it yesterday.

We started at the 2wd trailhead and were hiking by 5:30am. Made it to the NE ridge at a good pace on track to summit by 10:30am. As soon as we walked up to the ridge, the exposure on the other side scared us a bit. Continued up the ridge taking care to avoid exposure but noticing a good amount to the sides as we got higher. Somewhere between photo #18 and #19 in the route guide, we reached a nice flat area in front of one more large tower before the summit (I think it's visible in #18). Were overall spooked by the exposure to the left facing the summit, as well as the loose rock, and the fact that the remaining route seemed hard to find. Ended up turning around about 250 vertical ft below the summit and heading down. Views were amazing up there, could see all the other Elks from our spot, but weren't feeling confident enough to continue.

Overall a pretty enjoyable hike, but quite a step up from Elbert or Bierstadt and just a little too intimidating for us to finish this time. Would gladly try again if someone gave me a ride up the 4x4 Montezuma Basin road

[AyeYo]

Hit up some closer and easier peaks to get used to ridge exposure. I've been up North Star a few times and Atlantic as well. The routes are easy and obvious, nothing technical required, but there's some good exposure. It used to freak me out too. After doing it a few times, you stop noticing it.

[shizupple]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Just wanted to report back after taking a shot at it yesterday.

We started at the 2wd trailhead and were hiking by 5:30am. Made it to the NE ridge at a good pace on track to summit by 10:30am. As soon as we walked up to the ridge, the exposure on the other side scared us a bit. Continued up the ridge taking care to avoid exposure but noticing a good amount to the sides as we got higher. Somewhere between photo #18 and #19 in the route guide, we reached a nice flat area in front of one more large tower before the summit (I think it's visible in #18). Were overall spooked by the exposure to the left facing the summit, as well as the loose rock, and the fact that the remaining route seemed hard to find. Ended up turning around about 250 vertical ft below the summit and heading down. Views were amazing up there, could see all the other Elks from our spot, but weren't feeling confident enough to continue.

Overall a pretty enjoyable hike, but quite a step up from Elbert or Bierstadt and just a little too intimidating for us to finish this time. Would gladly try again if someone gave me a ride up the 4x4 Montezuma Basin road

Smart move sticking to your gut instinct and turning around. I'm thinking about giving a go at this peak for my next one. Interesting to read what people are saying about the route finding.