Peak or Needle?

[Rambler]

So I'm taking my wife and friend up to South Colony Lakes in 2 weeks for a couple days of camping. Our goal is Humboldt, which shouldn't be a big deal weather permitting. I will possibly have a solo day in that timeframe to do either the Peak or Needle, neither of them is ready for either. I don't plan on doing the traverse solo as I've never been up there. So which would you do if you can only do one? I'm comfortable with class 4 and if I get a perfect day I could do BHP, peak, BHP, needle, back to south colony...but if you could only get one, which? Or who wants to show me the traverse?

[j babu]

I like the route on the north side of Crestone Peak, coming from across Bears Playground (same start as the standard Humboldt route), and down the red gully route to Broken Hand Pass. The north side isn't much harder than the south, but route finding is less clear--it's possible to vere into more difficult terrain--and you could also encounter some snow fields (I did in July/August). Going this way saves some gain as Bears stays high vs. up/down BHP. This would also give you a look at the traverse (but not really the trickier spots).

[Shooter]

I found the Needle to be much more enjoyable than the Peak. One of my favorite 14ers. The scrambling for the most part is on solid rock and was a lot of fun. It will be a much shorter day than the Peak. When I did the Peak it was not the most ideal conditions in the red gully. A lot of wet rock and some lingering snow fields.

[ORION]

For me, the deciding issue here is that your solo. I climbed the Peak's Red Gully solo, and I had partners for the Needle.

Conditions (and weather) permitting, the Red Gully is a straight forward Class 3 without any route finding issues, ideal for a solo outing. The Needle has great rock, but it also has well documented route finding issues, and I was glad to have 3 pair of eyes when we climbed.

[Mtnman200]

The Needle is my favorite 14er and gets my vote. You will not be alone, even on a weekday.

[fahixson]

I agree that having a partner would be nice for Needle. Ignoring that, I would do Needle and save Peak for another time when you could approach from Cottonwood.

[bdloftin77]

Peak

Pros:
*More straightforward route finding (safer? in that aspect)

Cons:
*Not AS nice of rock as the Needle (a bit more loose stuff, smoother, though less steep)
*More physically exhausting from S Colony Lakes up the Red Gully (up BHP, down BHP... up BHP, down BHP) < unless you find more arduous routes to be more challenging and fun

Needle

Pros:
*Stellar rock quality (grippy, solid conglomerate)
*Shorter and less physically exhausting from S Colony Lakes

Cons:
*More difficult route finding issues, lots of related accidents (however, if you do your homework, bring pictures and directions, take notes on the way up of the route for the way down, you'll probably be good)

Both

Pros: Challenging, relatively good rock quality, small and airy summits, great views (though most 14ers have pretty good views), class 3+ scrambling

Cons: Many weather and route finding related accidents on both, not as straightforward as other 14ers


On the Needle, we had foggy conditions, and also forgot the route description and pictures in the tent. (bad bad). We managed to make it to the top, finding the crossover point from the east gully to the west gully because a returning climber directed us, and found the rest of the way based on memory and memory of research. Socked in by clouds on the top. On the Peak, I went solo, did bring all the directions and pictures, and made it up before all the clouds engulfed the mountain. I had spectacular views, and felt very happy and accomplished. Based on those personal experiences, I like the Peak better, though the Needle had very, very fun climbing. Basically like a rock climbing wall tilted at an angle. It would be nice to go up the Needle again in good weather eventually. Either way though, you can't really go wrong. Both are great mountains.

[FireTruck8]

Great insight from Orion. I just finished Humboldt, Peak and Needle last week from Cottonwood. I enjoyed the Needle, the exit of the West gully(going back down) to the East gully is currently marked by a hankie under a cairn. This helps reinforce the necessary crossover point, but doesn't answer all the route challenges. The help of additional partners is strongly recommended due to the fact, respectful climbers, groups will give you the necessary climbing space to avoid any rock fall situations. Some people may be hesitant to allow you to join their group due to them being unfamiliar with your skills. Sorry, long explanation for considering taking a partner on the Needle.
The Peaks best climbing was the final pitch from the saddle, really great. There was also some enjoyable sections below 13k, but felt the rest was a slog up the gully. Small area of snow(13,800ish)that was easy to negotiate on the left. On another note, I felt confident we were in the correct spot for crossing over the dihedral, but found this more challenging than expected.
IMHO, take on the Peak solo and secure a partner or make possible new friends for the Needle.
Finally, it was mentioned earlier to complete only the Peak from Cottonwood Trail/Lake. This TH has its benefits when doing all 3 summits in this area, but this doesn't mean much on your way up the Cwood trail. Getting to the area around the lake will definitely test your metal. A ton of work for one 14er, stay an extra day at SC lake camp and get all 3 if that works for you. Hope this helped.

[RonfarZ3]

I'm probably a bit biased when it comes to these two, as I did Needle first, then went and did Peak (no traverse). This added up to a long day and the Red Gully was not as fun having already expended some energy doing Needle, not to mention the "back up and down BHP" you have to do, but that's already been mentioned.

That being said, Needle is one of my top favorites mainly due to the grippy and solid nature of the rock. If you really research the route beforehand and bring routefinding materials with you, you should be fine.

[DeTour]

I enjoyed the Peak but loved the Needle. The Crestone conglomerate rock is such a blast to climb on. I consider the Needle my "favorite" 14er, with two extraordinarily great summits of it. Some call it harder because there are some prolonged steep sections, but the rock is so great I consider it a relatively easy peak. It's certainly safer in terms of rockfall than many class 3 14ers.

The routefinding on the Needle is indeed critical, but not difficult IMO if you do your homework. Our group found the crossover point very easy to identify both times. We encountered one spicy move when you cross the gully, but the ascending traverse to the rib and descent on the other side was easy. Once you make the crossover, the key is to follow Bill Middlebrook's urging to look behind you to get a mental picture of the return spot - and a few camera shots are a good idea as well. Same applies for the transition from the gully to ramp as you near the summit, another spot where some have had routefinding problems on the descent.

Some climb the east gully the entire way without crossing over to the west gully. Much discussion of this peak on a couple of recent forum threads.

[letourneau41]

I would pick the Needle. I didn't think the peak was that great of a climb. The red gully was somewhat disappointing. Plus if you do the needle you won't have to put up with BHP twice.

[HikerGuy]

If camping at South Colony Lakes, it will be hard to not be swayed by the Needle and its lofty summit perch can't be beat.