Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
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falcon568
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Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Anyone have recent beta on Dragon's Tail? Info on other couloir conditions would be great as well. I saw the post about Savage. Thanks!
"Of course, inside each one of us is the ambition to reach the summit, to realize that you are stronger than obstacles, that it is within your power to do something uncommon and indeed impossible for most people. But one must be prepared to face those obstacles..."-Ed Viesturs
"When I was a child, I felt there was something I had to find before I died. I imagined it as some lost, golden country, glittering on the other side of the mist across our neighbor's fields, hidden within the shadows behind our stone wall—some place beyond the fixed patterns of society, the grey chronology that led inexorably to death. In my twenties, on my first free solo, the light seemed to shatter through me, and the sky pour down the rock. Like so many climbers, immersed in that sudden, radiant awareness of now, I've had that brief and total conviction that each moment is both fleeting and eternal"-Katie Ives
"When I was a child, I felt there was something I had to find before I died. I imagined it as some lost, golden country, glittering on the other side of the mist across our neighbor's fields, hidden within the shadows behind our stone wall—some place beyond the fixed patterns of society, the grey chronology that led inexorably to death. In my twenties, on my first free solo, the light seemed to shatter through me, and the sky pour down the rock. Like so many climbers, immersed in that sudden, radiant awareness of now, I've had that brief and total conviction that each moment is both fleeting and eternal"-Katie Ives
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alpha
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
No info on the dragons, but I have some other info:
Flattop North side -
Flattop Northwest Gully: looked at it, couldn't tell one way or the other
East Couloir: fair bit of avy debris at the base but it was quiet on 6/5 (so perhaps it's stabilizing?). Still quite corniced, possible exit on the left.
Hourglass Couloir: fair bit of avy debris at the base but it was quiet on 6/5. Still quite corniced but there is an exit on far right as of 6/5.
West Couloir: less debris than the other two and also looked to have very little in the way of cornices.
Taylor Glacier: lots of debris at the base. Typical right hand side is heavily corniced and was somewhat active on 6/6. Straight up the middle has a possible exit but was also somewhat active on 6/6. Far left variant was stable, had some cornice but there was a decent exit.
Skywalker Couloir: some debris on the apron. Lower portion was quite firm on 6/8, top part of the route was pretty soft once we got to it (had been in the sun for a little bit). I would probably plan to leave early enough to be topping out as the sun is coming on to the top of the route.
Flattop North side -
Flattop Northwest Gully: looked at it, couldn't tell one way or the other
East Couloir: fair bit of avy debris at the base but it was quiet on 6/5 (so perhaps it's stabilizing?). Still quite corniced, possible exit on the left.
Hourglass Couloir: fair bit of avy debris at the base but it was quiet on 6/5. Still quite corniced but there is an exit on far right as of 6/5.
West Couloir: less debris than the other two and also looked to have very little in the way of cornices.
Taylor Glacier: lots of debris at the base. Typical right hand side is heavily corniced and was somewhat active on 6/6. Straight up the middle has a possible exit but was also somewhat active on 6/6. Far left variant was stable, had some cornice but there was a decent exit.
Skywalker Couloir: some debris on the apron. Lower portion was quite firm on 6/8, top part of the route was pretty soft once we got to it (had been in the sun for a little bit). I would probably plan to leave early enough to be topping out as the sun is coming on to the top of the route.
Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Awesome. Is this the Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead? Could you see any ice at the chocks?
"The road to alpine climbing is pocked and poorly marked, ending at an unexpectedly closed gate 5 miles from the trailhead." - MP user Beckerich
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alpha
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Sorry no...could have been a bit more clear on that one. This is the middle couloir on the north side of Flattop. I know them as East, Hourglass, and West.Monster5 wrote:Awesome. Is this the Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead? Could you see any ice at the chocks?
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Hoocharoni
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Climbed Dragon's two weeks ago. Snow was excellent up to the step all the way to the top. Big cornice on Dragon's proper (right fork), so we opted to stay left so couldn't say what the step looks like up close. Left fork had easy access to the top of the ridge as long as you stayed to the right of the wall, small cornice buildup on the left side.
We had a little bit of a late start so had some pretty heavy snow/ice debris falling down the shoot which was to be expected with the warm weather we climbed with. Have fun.
We had a little bit of a late start so had some pretty heavy snow/ice debris falling down the shoot which was to be expected with the warm weather we climbed with. Have fun.
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Alan Arnette
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Climbed Dragon's Tail on 5 June, started around 8AM, lower section was soft but no avi signs, upper was more firm but still a bit mushy.
Bailed 75% up Martha on 8 June due to running water.
Bailed 75% up Martha on 8 June due to running water.
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wrinkledpants
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Anyone headed up this weekend to Dragontail? With the weather looking damp today and tomorrow, trying to decide if we should hold off until next weekend, or even just pushing it to Sunday instead of saturday. Rangers said snow line is at 9K level. Are you guys climbing down the couloir or taking the flat top trail?
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theuglybear
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Glissading down the Tyndall Glacier is faster and more fun.wrinkledpants wrote:Anyone headed up this weekend to Dragontail? With the weather looking damp today and tomorrow, trying to decide if we should hold off until next weekend, or even just pushing it to Sunday instead of saturday. Rangers said snow line is at 9K level. Are you guys climbing down the couloir or taking the flat top trail?
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wrinkledpants
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Good call. Didn't even think of that.
Conditions just aren't looking good this weekend. Heavy precip forecasting for tonight and tomorrow with skies being overcast the whole time. Snotel last few nights has reported low temps in the mid 40's at 9500 ft. Doesn't seem like there will be any freeze thaw cycles before this weekend.
Conditions just aren't looking good this weekend. Heavy precip forecasting for tonight and tomorrow with skies being overcast the whole time. Snotel last few nights has reported low temps in the mid 40's at 9500 ft. Doesn't seem like there will be any freeze thaw cycles before this weekend.
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Col_Forbin
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Yup. Overnight lows in the 40's.wrinkledpants wrote:Good call. Didn't even think of that.
Conditions just aren't looking good this weekend. Heavy precip forecasting for tonight and tomorrow with skies being overcast the whole time. Snotel last few nights has reported low temps in the mid 40's at 9500 ft. Doesn't seem like there will be any freeze thaw cycles before this weekend.
This s**t blows.
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falcon568
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Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
You guys are awesome, thanks for the beta. Sounds like decent snow conditions, just missing that overnight freeze. I'll keep my eye on Sunday's forecast for doing something, maybe mother nature will throw me a bone.
"Of course, inside each one of us is the ambition to reach the summit, to realize that you are stronger than obstacles, that it is within your power to do something uncommon and indeed impossible for most people. But one must be prepared to face those obstacles..."-Ed Viesturs
"When I was a child, I felt there was something I had to find before I died. I imagined it as some lost, golden country, glittering on the other side of the mist across our neighbor's fields, hidden within the shadows behind our stone wall—some place beyond the fixed patterns of society, the grey chronology that led inexorably to death. In my twenties, on my first free solo, the light seemed to shatter through me, and the sky pour down the rock. Like so many climbers, immersed in that sudden, radiant awareness of now, I've had that brief and total conviction that each moment is both fleeting and eternal"-Katie Ives
"When I was a child, I felt there was something I had to find before I died. I imagined it as some lost, golden country, glittering on the other side of the mist across our neighbor's fields, hidden within the shadows behind our stone wall—some place beyond the fixed patterns of society, the grey chronology that led inexorably to death. In my twenties, on my first free solo, the light seemed to shatter through me, and the sky pour down the rock. Like so many climbers, immersed in that sudden, radiant awareness of now, I've had that brief and total conviction that each moment is both fleeting and eternal"-Katie Ives
Re: Dragon's Tail Couloir Conditions
Climbed Dragonstail with the CMC today. We were at the base at 615, a bit late, but found very favorable conditions. There is a rock step early on in the constriction, but other than that it was continuous snow. Consolidated and climbable. No cornice at the top. No rockfall. Max angle was maybe 45 degrees. Things are melting fast so get after it.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.
I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
