Tyndall Glacier

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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Valesia
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Tyndall Glacier

Post by Valesia »

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to go climb something snow/icy this weekend and I was thinking about Tyndall Glacier. Id like to get more practice with my cramps and axe on something a bit more challenging. Ive never been near Tyndall except for looking down from flattop when I was 10 and everything looked huge and steep then. Andrews is not enough,im looking for something more difficult. Is Tyndall a good spot if im trying to progress a bit? If not where in the RMNP area would you suggest?

Thanks ppl
Life does not come with cairns to guide you, you must follow your dreams.
alpha
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by alpha »

Ptarmigan Glacier perhaps (from Bear Lake, past Lake Helene). No idea what the conditions are like this time of year though.
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Broken Knee
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by Broken Knee »

I climbed Tyndall Glacier in October a long time ago and the top was dangerous, with a big bergschrund and small bridges. I doubt it will be so nasty in August, but just keep your eyes open. You could consider the couloirs on the N side of Flattop also.
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JohnnyDangerous
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by JohnnyDangerous »

I climbed it on Monday. It's a good moderate route and only required two tools for the last 10-15 feet at the top. Otherwise, it was about 40 degree snow. My partner and I roped up, but we have both soloed harder climbs. This was due to the unknown crevasse factor. We later found this to be unnecessary as the crevasse near the top just started to open and is only about 4 inches wide right now. One word of caution though; the rocks on the left side are still shedding. This side of the glacier looks to be a steeper and more exciting climb, but as we geared up, a block the size of washer/dryer came crashing down. As such we, we went straight up the middle of the face.
alpha
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by alpha »

JohnnyDangerous wrote:I climbed it on Monday. It's a good moderate route and only required two tools for the last 10-15 feet at the top. Otherwise, it was about 40 degree snow. My partner and I roped up, but we have both soloed harder climbs. This was due to the unknown crevasse factor. We later found this to be unnecessary as the crevasse near the top just started to open and is only about 4 inches wide right now. One word of caution though; the rocks on the left side are still shedding. This side of the glacier looks to be a steeper and more exciting climb, but as we geared up, a block the size of washer/dryer came crashing down. As such we, we went straight up the middle of the face.
What time did you top out and was that a good time to keep the snow in good climbing condition or would you have started earlier (or later)?
JohnnyDangerous
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by JohnnyDangerous »

We started way too late which is probably why we witnessed the rockfall. Made it to the base of the glacier at 12:00, geared up and probably topped out around 1:15. The snow wouldn't take a long screw but would probably hold a picket well.
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by alpha »

JohnnyDangerous wrote:We started way too late which is probably why we witnessed the rockfall. Made it to the base of the glacier at 12:00, geared up and probably topped out around 1:15. The snow wouldn't take a long screw but would probably hold a picket well.
Awesome, thanks for the info!
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Usher73
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by Usher73 »

I was on Flattop on Monday also. This is what it looked like then.

if it's Tyndall Glacier. It was my first time up there.


Image
alpha
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by alpha »

Usher73 wrote:I was on Flattop on Monday also. This is what it looked like then.

if it's Tyndall Glacier. It was my first time up there.
Yep, looks like it. Thanks for the picture!
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Broken Knee
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Re: Tyndall Glacier

Post by Broken Knee »

Usher73 wrote:I was on Flattop on Monday also. This is what it looked like then.

if it's Tyndall Glacier. It was my first time up there.
Nice shot! The left side chute looks like fun. In the coming weeks, it may get a bit ugly up there.
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