Death on Long’s Peak proves a harrowing reminder

[opticstalk]

In the summer with hoards of people and all route finding is next to elementary. I have been on top with a couple hundred others and passed another two three hundred on the way down at times.

[ColoradoEd]

Longs was my first. Did it alone. Started at 9:30 wearing a lot of cotton.
But for the grace of God....

[bohlsen]

It took me 18 fourteener summits and a handful of learning experiences to feel ready for Longs, but I can relate to why people choose it as their first. So close to Denver, its majestic appearance, easy access to trailhead, the challenge that it offers, and the sense of invincibility that most people don't lose until they are well into their 20's.

But I can think of so many other reasons NOT to choose Longs as the first. Personally, and I didn't even realize it at the time, but attempting Longs during my first or second year would have been a horrible idea, because it took me that long to completely cure myself of "summit stubbornness". That is, learning that there is absolutely no shame in having to turn around, that it's not a failure in any way.

My dad and I did Longs as both of our firsts when I was 14 and ten years later I still feel very comfortable with our decision to do it first. Because it was such a big deal in our minds and we knew of the inherent dangers involved we were extremely conscious of the weather, how each of us was feeling and went into it with no expectations of summiting. We talked about whether or not we should continue every mile and or so and were strongly considering stopping at the keyhole but we ultimately ended up making it to the top because the weather was gorgeous and we both felt much better than we'd expected.

I've done Longs now twice as well as Meeker twice on separate trips and it was only on my most recent Meeker trip that I felt like I truly put myself in danger and in all honesty I was extremely lucky not to suffer for my lack of judgement. I think in some ways doing a mountain like Longs can be just as if not more dangerous for experienced 14er climbers than for novices because overconfidence and complacency can be just as deadly as inexperience.

[tlongpine]

No one (well, hardly no one) attempts the Maroon Bells, Colorado's deadliest mountain, as their first 14er but hoards of people flock every summer to summit Colorado's second deadliest mountain, Longs Peak.

There's an argument that Longs' deadliness it more directly correlated to it's popularity than to it's objective hazards. Put Wetterhorn ot the Crestones within an hour of Denver and you'll see two statistics spike alongside one another: climbers, and deaths.

The only advice I'll offer hikers eyeing Longs as their first summit is this: Some mountains are better than others, and Longs is better than most. You'll find that many of the Front Range and Collegiate Peaks are a dull echo of Longs.

[smoove]

No one (well, hardly no one) attempts the Maroon Bells, Colorado's deadliest mountain, as their first 14er but hoards of people flock every summer to summit Colorado's second deadliest mountain, Longs Peak.

There's an argument that Longs' deadliness it more directly correlated to it's popularity than to it's objective hazards. Put Wetterhorn ot the Crestones within an hour of Denver and you'll see two statistics spike alongside one another: climbers, and deaths.

I agree. Well, other than the misuse of a couple apostrophes above, I agree.

[opticstalk]

If had started with Sherman, I am not entirely sure my peak begging would have continued.

[JROSKA]

My dad and I did Longs as both of our firsts when I was 14 and ten years later I still feel very comfortable with our decision to do it first. Because it was such a big deal in our minds and we knew of the inherent dangers involved we were extremely conscious of the weather, how each of us was feeling and went into it with no expectations of summiting. We talked about whether or not we should continue every mile and or so and were strongly considering stopping at the keyhole but we ultimately ended up making it to the top because the weather was gorgeous and we both felt much better than we'd expected.

You and your dad would definitely be examples of people who had a large degree of maturity, familiarity, and awareness, prior to starting 14ers, so in that case, Longs is a great starting point. It certainly is more beautiful and exciting than most other 14ers, as others have referenced. However, while I don't have any percentages or estimates, I'm guessing that most who choose Longs as their first, don't fall into the category you do. So much of this type of activity, the decision-making, risk management, involves pure instinct. Some, like yourself, have that instinct from the very start. I don't think that most do, however. For instance, when I took a friend visiting from Wisconsin on his first 14er (Lincoln) a few years ago, he had absolutely no idea that storms out here just "pop" up, seemingly out of nowhere. He was essentially thinking like a Midwesterner, where summer storms almost always are the result of frontal activity. As a Midwesterner myself, I don't think I really had a feel for that at the very beginning, either. But after watching weather develop throughout my first few hikes, and getting caught in a couple of downpours before I reached the car, I sure learned quickly. I guess that's all I'm saying - if someone (like you and your dad) have that seasoning at the very beginning, and want to start our with Longs, that's one thing. But for the multitudes of others who have absolutely no touch, feel, or instinct, regarding the many aspects of hiking up Colorado's highest peaks, I'd submit that there are much better places to develop and expand that than Longs Peak.

[paully]

I thinks she wrote a good account of the days events on Longs Peak.

I am continually amazed at the number of people who attempt Longs Peak as their very first 14er and are then surprised to discover how challenging it can be. No one (well, hardly no one) attempts the Maroon Bells, Colorado's deadliest mountain, as their first 14er but hoards of people flock every summer to summit Colorado's second deadliest mountain, Longs Peak.

While I totally agree that starting with Longs is a questionable decision, it is not the second, fifth, or even tenth deadliest 14er in Colorado. If you're basing that on the fact that so many novices climb it (and so many in general), and hence the greater number of fatalities... ok. But I can name 10 (North/South Maroon, Capitol, Pyramid, Wilson/El Diente, Little Bear, Crestones, Eolus... to name a few) that are far deadlier. Tough... yes, but when you have gigantic bulls eyes and a steady stream of hikers guiding you to the top (and therefore a ton of people to help you in a pinch), I wouldn't call that deadly per se...

[Scott P]

But I can name 10 (North/South Maroon, Capitol, Pyramid, Wilson/El Diente, Little Bear, Crestones, Eolus... to name a few) that are far deadlier.

By what criteria? Longs has killed far more people than any of those other peaks listed. Why are those mountains deadlier than Longs? Even by percentages, I would bet that they most of them are not.

Some dangers on Longs:

1. Overall, probably the coldest, windiest, and stormiest 14er. It probably has the worst icing conditions as well.

2. Big crowds = more risk.

3. The standard route stays high for a long time and there isn't anywhere to bail off high on the mountain (same danger is present on some of the other ones on your list).

4. The smooth rock slabs are easy when dry, harder when wet or icy, more so than some of the other ones on the list.

5. The standard route is easy enough that almost anyone in reasonable shape, regardless of experience can climb it, but hard enough that it's easy to get in trouble.

6. The descent back down to timberline takes longer than any of the others on the list, with the possible exception of Capitol.

Of course the other ones have some of those dangers too, but I don't think I'd call them deadlier.

[bohlsen]

My dad and I did Longs as both of our firsts when I was 14 and ten years later I still feel very comfortable with our decision to do it first. Because it was such a big deal in our minds and we knew of the inherent dangers involved we were extremely conscious of the weather, how each of us was feeling and went into it with no expectations of summiting. We talked about whether or not we should continue every mile and or so and were strongly considering stopping at the keyhole but we ultimately ended up making it to the top because the weather was gorgeous and we both felt much better than we'd expected.

You and your dad would definitely be examples of people who had a large degree of maturity, familiarity, and awareness, prior to starting 14ers, so in that case, Longs is a great starting point. It certainly is more beautiful and exciting than most other 14ers, as others have referenced. However, while I don't have any percentages or estimates, I'm guessing that most who choose Longs as their first, don't fall into the category you do. So much of this type of activity, the decision-making, risk management, involves pure instinct. Some, like yourself, have that instinct from the very start. I don't think that most do, however. For instance, when I took a friend visiting from Wisconsin on his first 14er (Lincoln) a few years ago, he had absolutely no idea that storms out here just "pop" up, seemingly out of nowhere. He was essentially thinking like a Midwesterner, where summer storms almost always are the result of frontal activity. As a Midwesterner myself, I don't think I really had a feel for that at the very beginning, either. But after watching weather develop throughout my first few hikes, and getting caught in a couple of downpours before I reached the car, I sure learned quickly. I guess that's all I'm saying - if someone (like you and your dad) have that seasoning at the very beginning, and want to start our with Longs, that's one thing. But for the multitudes of others who have absolutely no touch, feel, or instinct, regarding the many aspects of hiking up Colorado's highest peaks, I'd submit that there are much better places to develop and expand that than Longs Peak.

Excellent point, I guess I tend to forget that not everyone's lucky enough to grow up camping and hiking in CO.

[Hungry Jack]

I had knocked off 10 14ers before going to Longs (mostly due to logistics), including Quandary's West Ridge, Kelso Ridge, and the Bierstadt-Sawtooth-Evans-willows slog.

Longs via the Loft was certainly the most physically challenging effort of any of my CO hikes to date. Just a long slog with lots of altitude gain on rocky terrain, especially past the Loft into Keplingers.

The thought of encountering ice on the Homestretch or Narrows is pretty concerning. You certainly do not expect to find it in late July or August, but it sounds like one could.

Longs is a captivating peak for its iconic face and many varied routes, but its proximity to Denver and location in a NP makes it a magnet for less experienced hikers. It is not a peak I would recommend at all for a first 14er.

[desertdog]

We had climbed the Cables Route that morning. Minutes after we summited, we heard someone had fallen. We climbed down to see if we could help. By that point an off duty ranger and his party were there.

The conditions that day were dangerous for any experience level. Lot’s of ice where you didn’t want it to be and plenty of tourists wondering how to negotiate it.

As we were climbing, around dawn I remember seeing a long line of headlamps coming up to the boulder field. It was a great sight, but now I can’t shake the thought that the fallen climber was probably one of them. That was a very sad day to be in the mountains.