Need help improving photography

[bergsteigen]

To darken the image, you need to up the aperture number (ie how much light is let in). So instead of F8, try F15 or F22 or something higher. The actual number will actually depend on the lighting conditions of the moment. It's not the same every time.

[IntrepidXJ]

So I was experimenting shooting a rapid and was looking to get that cool blurred effect from the water...I had the camera in manual mode, with a shutter speed around 1/20, aperture of F8, and ISO of 80, in order to get a decent blur and have the image not be bright/washed out...however going to a slower shutter speed, like 1/8 ends up with a really really bright picture. Is there a setting I'm missing that handles that? Thanks.

Put the camera in 'shutter priority' mode...the 'Tv' setting on Canon cameras. Then choose an exposure of at least 1/5 of a second and make sure you are using a tripod (or setting the camera on something solid). Let the camera determine the other settings in this mode and just try different shutter speeds. In bright daylight it might be difficult to get shutter speeds slow enough and a neutral density filter might be required (I believe the S110 has a built in ND filter that can be turned on in the menu).

[mtn_nut]

So I was experimenting shooting a rapid and was looking to get that cool blurred effect from the water...I had the camera in manual mode, with a shutter speed around 1/20, aperture of F8, and ISO of 80, in order to get a decent blur and have the image not be bright/washed out...however going to a slower shutter speed, like 1/8 ends up with a really really bright picture. Is there a setting I'm missing that handles that? Thanks.

I think "F8" is the smallest aperture the S110 has. This is because of the smallish sensor so anything smaller isn't needed.

To get the effect, a ND filter will darken the image to help. i use an adjustable ND filter, but a s110 has no way to attach a filter without something like a lensmate. Otherwise shoot the same water feature when it's darker out like twilight.

[bergsteigen]

I have an ND filter for my S100, but I also have the filter attachment that you can find online. ND filters will help greatly by decreasing the amount of light coming in.

All this info is why I have to recommend a class, or hanging out with someone who is a pro or advanced amateur.

[IntrepidXJ]

To get the effect, a ND filter will darken the image to help. i use an adjustable ND filter, but a s110 has no way to attach a filter without something like a lensmate. Otherwise shoot the same water feature when it's darker out like twilight.

The S110 has a built-in ND filter than you can enable and disable in the menu. It's internal.

[mtn_nut]

To get the effect, a ND filter will darken the image to help. i use an adjustable ND filter, but a s110 has no way to attach a filter without something like a lensmate. Otherwise shoot the same water feature when it's darker out like twilight.

The S110 has a built-in ND filter than you can enable and disable in the menu. It's internal.

Yes, but its only a stop or two.

for really silky looking water in full sun, you'll need more than that and a tripod to get a full second or two.

[PaliKona]

I've been playing with those techniques and it's working. Thank you!

Another question: this time about photographing during a snowstorm. I've noticed when I take a pic and it's dumping, I rarely capture the flakes in the air...like the shutter speed is too fast and doesn't pick them up. How can I adjust things so I can capture the magical moments when we're out there and it's puking snow?

[acidchylde]

Actually you want a fairly fast shutter speed, otherwise the flakes will just be streaks and likely so faint as to be mistaken for something on the lens or part of the background. With snow they have to be pretty big flakes to get the kind of image I think you're after. In general, white flakes with a white background won't show up very well. Or more likely gray on gray given the light in a snowstorm. If you have a dark background (like trees) they're easier to see.

Another thing that can really make them pop is using a flash, but that has challenges. The closer ones will reflect a huge amount flash while the further way fade out pretty quick. With a built in flash that has limited range, it's even more pronounced. If you get a shot timed when everything is a few feet a way at least it can work, but anything close just turns into big white spots resembling water drops on the lens (not necessarily a bad effect if balanced across the image).

[don ingram]

Hate to tell someone to buy a book but have to highly recommend "Understanding Exposure". I think just about everything you're curious about is answered in there.

For the snowflakes - close the aperture a bit so you have a reasonably deep depth-of-field so that snowflakes around your subject will be in focus. Then adjust the shutter speed until you get the flakes. Like this:

IMG_6916 by HI Racing, on Flickr

Take your camera everywhere and take lots of pictures. Sign up to a site like http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php. They have photo sharing sections, how-to's, that kind of thing. If you can afford processing for a few rolls of film every month I'll also recommend getting a good old film camera. Film forces you to slow down because you know you'll waste the film if you don't get it right. The act of slowing down lets you have time to consider all the elements of the photo which can help to make a better shot.

Good luck! Share some shots with us sometime.