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Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Info on gear, conditioning, and preparation for hiking/climbing. Gear Classifieds

Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby shredthegnar10 » Tue Dec 04, 2012 10:16 pm

I'm going to try spending a couple nights on Hoosier pass before I head down there this December. I figure it might avoid some of the Denver skier traffic that the others would see.
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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby RoanMtnMan » Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:51 am

If I lived in Denver and was prepping for Aconcagua, I would do as much backpacking with my gear in the Sawatch as I could, until the week before my trip date. Then during prep week, I would trail run and then sleep as many nights as I could in Conifer or Evergreen, so I could still make it back down to Denver for work or family. From a practical standpoint it works. The expedition plan should take care of the rest. You will be more pre-acclimated for 22k than 70% or the folks that climb the peak and will have spent less time and money compared to driving to a high pass.
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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby nyker » Wed Dec 05, 2012 6:33 am

What about Pikes Peak Road? Isn't that open all yeaar, weather pemitting?

http://pikespeak.us.com/Essentials/hours-and-fees.html

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby TravelingMatt » Wed Dec 05, 2012 8:25 am

nyker wrote:What about Pikes Peak Road? Isn't that open all yeaar, weather pemitting?

http://pikespeak.us.com/Essentials/hours-and-fees.html



That URL contains two problematic words.
So pleas'd at first the towering Alps we try,
Mount o'er the vales, and seem to tread the sky,
Th' increasing prospects tire our wand'ring eyes,
Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arise!
-- Alexander Pope

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby MountainHiker » Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:03 am

The winter parking for Bierstadt is at around 11,000’, plus you get to do a fourteener. Also with our lack of winter you might still be able to drive to near 12,000’ at the Sherman trailhead.
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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby ezabielski » Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:31 am

Does anyone know how much of a difference this will actually make? I would like to know how fast you decimalize on your way to Aconcagua after only a few days at altitude.

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby BenfromtheEast » Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:54 am

ezabielski wrote:Does anyone know how much of a difference this will actually make?

No. Short term acclimatization gains and deacclimatization losses are not well documented scientifically. Anecdotally, you'll get a range of opinions. The actual effects may be mostly mental (which I still wouldn't discount).

Good hydration, nutrition, and rest do make an actual difference.

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby MountainHiker » Wed Dec 05, 2012 10:19 am

BenfromtheEast wrote:
ezabielski wrote:Does anyone know how much of a difference this will actually make?

No. Short term acclimatization gains and deacclimatization losses are not well documented scientifically. Anecdotally, you'll get a range of opinions. The actual effects may be mostly mental (which I still wouldn't discount).

Good hydration, nutrition, and rest do make an actual difference.

It’s not only how your body will react. It’s about learning to help your how your body reacts and making friends with your gear. Dealing with cold mornings and above treeline weather in Colorado will help with performing the same tasks while altitude drunk. For training I would emphasize elevation gain more than heavy packing. Mules take the gear to base camp and high camp can be stocked in a couple carries. Being in fourteener shape will be a big help compared to a lot of people on the mountain who came from sea level.
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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby ThnkSno » Wed Dec 05, 2012 2:25 pm

Thank you for the great advice. I feel I'm at great 5280 shape but want to log as much time in the mountains between now and Jan either hiking, skinning or skiing with a few nights sleeping prior to the trip. I also don't want to overdue it either and risk sickness or injury.

I figure anything well help gain an edge.

Also not sure if anyone has heard this from the climbing community but I've heard CO climbers don't actually summit Aconcagua as often as one would think. Apparently from to quick of ascent or overconfidence. Again just hearsay.

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby gdthomas » Wed Dec 05, 2012 2:58 pm

ThnkSno wrote:...Also not sure if anyone has heard this from the climbing community but I've heard CO climbers don't actually summit Aconcagua as often as one would think. Apparently from to quick of ascent or overconfidence. Again just hearsay.


It's no secret uber fit climbers can suffer from AMS due to rapid ascents. Regardless of your training regimen in Colorado, you're more likely to summit if you ascend slowly and limit your altitude gain each day.

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby RoanMtnMan » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:01 pm

gdthomas wrote:
It's no secret uber fit climbers can suffer from AMS due to rapid ascents. Regardless of your training regimen in Colorado, you're more likely to summit if you ascend slowly and limit your altitude gain each day.


True. But "uber fit" certainly helps because one sweats less and thus stays more hydrated. Hydration is so important at altitude due to the fact that dehydration exacerbates AMS. I also agree with the comment from MountainHiker about repetition using your gear, it is about as important as anything on a long expedition. When stuff goes bad you don't want to be fumbling around with a tent or stove in an oxygen deprived state.
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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby MountainMedic » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:30 pm

Are you doing the whole acetazolamide (Diamox) thing? Aspirin? Ibuprofen? What's your altitude itinerary for the trip?

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