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Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Info on gear, conditioning, and preparation for hiking/climbing. Gear Classifieds
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Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby apasquel » Thu Jan 10, 2013 1:38 pm

For a climb of Shasta-Avalanche Gulch in June or any Colorado Class 3 similar to this route, what do you prefer? What are some of your recommendations and why?

I am trying to decide what boot to buy next? I've worn all of my boots down...it's time to suck it up and spend some money.

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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby RoanMtnMan » Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:37 pm

apasquel wrote:For a climb of Shasta-Avalanche Gulch in June or any Colorado Class 3 similar to this route, what do you prefer? What are some of your recommendations and why?

I am trying to decide what boot to buy next? I've worn all of my boots down...it's time to suck it up and spend some money.


For me, any crampon compatible boot for a Shasta avy gulch ascent in June would be fine. There will be frozen snow on the early morning start. For a class 3 CO 14er route, a well fitting trail shoe all the way. If there is snow throw on micro spikes. If I was dead set on spending a bunch of money on some cool new boots I would get the Scarpa Phantom 6000. They will get you up about anything in this hemisphere with comfort and style.
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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby apasquel » Thu Jan 10, 2013 3:27 pm

Those bad boys are $700! Do those guarantee you the summit!

Thanks for the input...I like any boot that are crampon compatible.

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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby RoanMtnMan » Thu Jan 10, 2013 5:55 pm

apasquel wrote:Those bad boys are $700! Do those guarantee you the summit!

Thanks for the input...I like any boot that are crampon compatible.


True, but they can be purchased for less and after living in a shoe pile for a long time I believe that I have at least started to refine my theories. Though expensive they are versatile enough for almost all cold weather ventures. A trail shoe, the 6000's, some bogs, and a good AT ski boot seem to fulfill all of my mountain foot wear needs these days. I guess for me the progression was wanting to winter hike, then wanting to glacier travel, then wanting to ice climb, then wanting to expedition. Having the 6000's would have saved me a lot of money over the long run as they can do all of these things well. Depends on your long term goals though. No summit guarantee currently.
Always follow the 7 P's. Proper Planning & Preparation, Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.

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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby pvnisher » Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:57 am

Depends on your goals, short term and long term.
You can do a lot in regular insulated hiking boots and microspikes or strap-on crampons (for relatively short periods of crampon walking).

As Roan said, if you want to winter hike, climb, ice climb, glacier travel, and expedition, then sure, you're going to need some serious footwear.
On the other hand, if you want to winter hike and do some slightly steeper sections, then either an insulated hiking boot or a mid-grade crampon-compatible boot will get you by.

I would recommend something crampon compatible and uninsulated, and without a front toe bail. The distinction is there because without the front toe bail it will likely be more flexible, have a little more camber, and be easier to walk in. The exception to that rule is the Crispi Eiger, which has a front bail but isn't completely rigid like my Nepal EVOs. They are fantastic, and when paired with a set of neoprene overboots and strap crampons they are very warm.

Layers are useful even for boots.

http://www.crispi.it/en/mountaineering-eiger-plus_silver_orange.php
http://www.backpacker.com/gear-zone-gear-review-crescent-moon-over-shoe-booties/gear/15159

Edit: You could also go with the LS Nepal EVO or Scarpa Mont Blanc. They might be a little overkill at times but will cover most of what you are likely to want to do. I did 6 days in the Scarpas and like the toe box better, but dislike the "pivot" point. Try both, they are nearly identical.

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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby shearmodulus » Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:38 am

A heavier 3-season boot with crampon reinforcement will do you well for most Colorado conditions. My toes get a little cold on the -10 days, but otherwise these are my "go to boot" for about 90% of the Colorado season. http://nextadventure.net/la-sportiva-trango-alp-gtx-mountaineering-boot.html?catargetid=1440609499&gclid=CMDAtq7D4LQCFYYWMgodvD4A_A They're paired with some BD Sabertooth Crampons with the universal toe and the heel bail.

I don't try much more complicated than a Class III with these. I'm still working on the CL IV/V skills at the gym. :-D
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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby winmag4582001 » Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:47 am

My ex-wife, who is dating a TNF rep., hooked me up with a pair of these and I love them. Definately overkill for Colorado but they should last me a long time and I do plan on going to Mt. Rainier in late June.
http://www.backcountry.com/the-north-face-verto-s6k-glacier-gtx-boot-mens
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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby Bean » Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:00 am

winmag4582001 wrote:My ex-wife, who is dating a TNF rep., hooked me up with a pair of these and I love them. Definately overkill for Colorado but they should last me a long time and I do plan on going to Mt. Rainier in late June.
http://www.backcountry.com/the-north-face-verto-s6k-glacier-gtx-boot-mens

Nice trade. :wink:
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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby pvnisher » Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:29 am

I hadn't seen that TNF was making high end boots. They look nice at first glace, priced right in the Nepal EVO / Mont Blanc range.

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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby winmag4582001 » Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:46 am

pvnisher wrote:I hadn't seen that TNF was making high end boots. They look nice at first glace, priced right in the Nepal EVO / Mont Blanc range.

I live in Thornton and work in Boulder if anybody wants to check them out. TNF Store in Boulder doesnt even have them in stock. I'm going down to Sherman/Gemini on sunday and will be using them again on that hike.
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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby SurfNTurf » Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:01 am

pvnisher wrote:
I would recommend something crampon compatible and uninsulated, and without a front toe bail. The distinction is there because without the front toe bail it will likely be more flexible, have a little more camber, and be easier to walk in.


This basically describes the La Sportiva Glaciers, which I've now used for two Colorado winters, two spring couloir seasons, Mt. Rainier and Orizaba. I wouldn't recommend them for Orizaba, but they've been perfect for everything else. They're comfortable to walk in, nearly waterproof when coated with NikWax, and have a heel welt and a half-shank for crampon use on moderate terrain.

I did just get a pair of LS Nepal Evos, but the Glaciers have served me well and will continue to do so in the right conditions.
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Re: Snow/Winter Boot or Mountaineer boot?

Postby herdbull » Sat Jan 12, 2013 7:32 am

I picked up a pair of Evo's maybe 2 months ago now and really like them. I've worn rigid soled boots before so the switch from a light hiker to these was pretty easy. They take a bit of getting used to on flat terrain but really shine when things turn nasty. The steeper and nastier the better they perform.

I haven't worn them much below zero yet and I think that would push the limits of the boots. I can't imagine needing more boot to climb anything in Colorado unless it's super frigid cold. I also picked up some BD Sabres and this combination is rock solid. Boots & pons feel as if they are one.

Look around and you can find some pretty good deals on the Evo's. I got mine shipped to my door for $382.

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