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Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

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Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Brian C » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:00 am

My buddies and I headed out to St. Mary's this past Monday to spend some time training for some summer trips and made a short video talking about one way to do a 3:1 haul for crevasse rescue. Figured some peeps might find it interesting or useful.

LINK IS HERE!
http://www.brianinthewild.com/crevasse-rescue-training-31-haul-video.html

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby SurfNTurf » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:12 am

Awesome. Thanks Brian, great refresher.
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Monster5 » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:37 am

Nice video - also of note that an ATC can take the place of the prussik-minding pulley up top and a prussik can take the place of the tibloc, depending on one's rescue kit and familiarity. Or just use carabiners if in a bind and a fan of extra work.

Brian showed me the tibloc/dual pulley thing the other day and I found it easier to set up with less friction, though it requires slightly different gear or finding your buddy's on arrest. The lower system seemed a bit more crowded, but it's probably because I wasn't familiar with setting up tiblocs.
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Brian C » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:54 am

Ryan is right, an ATC can substitute for the upper pulley and the more efficient place to have the pulley is the lower one anyway. Only problem with that is that adding an ATC will add unwanted friction into the system. It would be a more efficient system to just use a carabiner up top and have one person mend the prussik while the other person hauls. Also, here an additional thought...

I posted this over on a thread on SP about pulley systems.

Here were a few unorganized thoughts I had...

1) Saw that DMM makes a carabiner with a built-in pulley that could replace the lower pulley in the z-haul setup (the one on the tibloc). This also would be awesome to put on as your "rescue" biner for rock stuff as it would be money if you actually had to haul somebody and didn't have a pulley.

2) Also, the new Petzl micro-traxion would be awesome to have on glacier stuff as it would replace the upper pulley and the prussic both and it weights about the same. Only problem is it is a bit spendy. It could also be used to ascend the rope.

I then did a bit of rough math on the weight differences and came up with this...

Potential "New Setup"
Micro traxion - 3.6oz
DMM Wiregate Revolver - 1.5oz
Tibloc - 1.4oz

Total weight - 6.5oz

VS...

My "Old Setup"
2 prussic loops - 2oz approx.
Petzl Oscillante Pulley - 1.94oz
Petzl Twin Prusik Pulley - 11oz (I didn't think it was that heavy but that's what the page says...)
Oval wiregate carbiner (to use with bottom pulley) - 1.6oz
Tibloc - 1.4 oz

Total weight - 17.94 oz

Thought this was pretty interesting is it was more weight difference than I expected.
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby kushrocks » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:57 am

This is the most helpful post I have seen in a long time. I definitely need a refresher. Thanks Brian.
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby MtnClimber82 » Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:06 pm

Brian, could I make a suggestion? Maybe mute or lower the volume on the video and then have you dub in your voice talking over it. The wind and squeaky snow made it hard for me to pay attention (of course listening through headphones probably didn't help this...)

Otherwise great video!

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Brian C » Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:10 pm

MtnClimber82 wrote:Brian, could I make a suggestion? Maybe mute or lower the volume on the video and then have you dub in your voice talking over it. The wind and squeaky snow made it hard for me to pay attention (of course listening through headphones probably didn't help this...)

Otherwise great video!


I'll try and mess with that tonight. The audio is a bit tricky to hear at times and that was why I added the captions. Not sure why it didn't cross my mind to do a dub over.
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Brian C » Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:19 am

I changed the audio. Cut out the original sound and added a voiceover narration. It's funny how talking it out on St. Mary's didn't seem strange (I didn't know I was being taped) but recording the voiceover was weird! Is this better?
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby SeracZack » Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:44 am

Great Brian! Thank you!
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Brian C » Thu Feb 21, 2013 11:40 am

I'm glad people seem to like it. I really enjoyed going through the process of making the video as it really allowed me to reflect on what I was doing and look into improving my skills. Makes me want to make more of these!!
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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby ElFuegoDelaMuerte » Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:35 pm

I like the video. Good system and a nice overview of the process. I just have a technical question: Why use a tibloc at all? I've never used anything but prusiks/bachmann knots in crevasse rescue. The way I see it, there are two things you will always have on your harness when technical climbing: carabiners and slings/runners/cordelette. Given that a prusik/bachmann can be made from slings, cordelette, or long runners I see no need to take the risk of "damaging the sheath of the rope" (as pointed out in the video) given that it's the only link between your fallen climber and yourself. I understand that the likelihood of damaging the sheath is low (assuming you know how to use and have used the tibloc before) but why take the risk (additionally, dynamic ropes aren't designed to withstand repeated use of an ascender as are static ropes).

Also, from a weight prospective; Like I said, if you're climbing technical terrain you already have the stuff to make a sufficiently long prusik and bachmann knot so why bother adding the weight of a tibloc? If you bring some DMM revolvers and rather than using a prusik you use a bachmann you don't need to worry about the prusik minding pulley, the biner in the bachmann takes care of that. So you lose the weight of BOTH pulleys and the tibloc. Given that a revolver could be used just like any other biner, the total added weight of the rescue system for me would be 0 oz. Everything used in rescue would otherwise be used in regular climbing.

This is the system I use but I'm curious; is there a flaw in my system? Should I use a tibloc? I don't know. Now I need to think... And drink a beer... I'll drink a beer and think about it.

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Re: Crevasse Rescue Training: 3:1 Haul Video

Postby Alby426 » Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:33 am

Nice video and, thanks for sharing. For anyone deciding to venture in crevasse terrain, it would be good to practice this technique.
That said, in the case that it may be physically difficult to haul a perstn up and, there is luxury of equipment, it it possible to setup an other pulley uphill and walk downhill. That ofcourse is on extreme cases.
The beauty about most routes is that they are generally crowded and, extra help is generally available.

An other very good thing to do is to put something, like an epty backpack, under the rope at the corner of the crevasse to avoid the later to cut a groove in the ice and, make the exit from the crevasse by the the rescuee difficult.

By the way, to be annoyingly technical, this a 2:1 and not a 3:1 as you only travel twice as far as the rescued person. I say this just so, when it takes 100 lbs effort to lift a 200 lbs person, you are not surprised. :wft:

Good job and, thank you again.
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