Forum
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...

El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing?
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:11 pm
Location: MO

El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby danbrady3 » Thu Nov 15, 2012 6:00 pm

I know this is not a 14er but I want to climb El Cap via the nose sometime near the New Years. Unfortunately I don't have anyone to climb this with. This will be my biggest climb so I would be happy to be a follower if need be. Any questions please message me.

User avatar
Posts: 716
Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:46 pm
Location: Nidderdale, North Yorkshire

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby pvnisher » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:37 pm

I'm not meaning to rain on a New Year's party, but your profile mentions that you recently got into top roping, and would like to eventually lead...

The Nose includes climbing up to 5.14 a/b if free, or at least 5.9 C2 aiding. Many parties take 3 days or more to climb it. Good luck! :-"

User avatar
Posts: 626
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:41 pm
Location: waiting to see if my doom is impending

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby DeucesWild » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:40 pm

danbrady3 wrote:I know this is not a 14er but I want to climb El Cap via the nose sometime near the New Years. Unfortunately I don't have anyone to climb this with. This will be my biggest climb so I would be happy to be a follower if need be. Any questions please message me.


Go back to MO. Climb the Elephant Rocks. If you can climb those without a ladder, come back and try again.
Snowflakes, Uber Alles!

www.deuceIRA.com. Put the Douche in your FiDeuceiary needs today!!

User avatar
Posts: 2146
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:47 pm
Location: Colorado Springs

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:53 pm

danbrady3 wrote:I know this is not a 14er but I want to climb El Cap via the nose sometime near the New Years. Unfortunately I don't have anyone to climb this with. This will be my biggest climb so I would be happy to be a follower if need be. Any questions please message me.

If you're serious, go here:

Mountainproject.com




If not, you've come to the right place. :-"

User avatar
Posts: 716
Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:46 pm
Location: Nidderdale, North Yorkshire

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby pvnisher » Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:01 pm

And if serious, update your profile.

User avatar
Posts: 1109
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:55 pm
Location: Longmont

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby Brian C » Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:35 pm

Not many people on this site that would be up for guiding you up El Cap. I'd recommend finding a guiding company. Not sure who services Yosemite though. Do you have any aid or big wall experience?

PS - It's cold there in the winter.

User avatar
Posts: 2701
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:22 am
Location: Glenwood Springs, CO

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby cheeseburglar » Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:26 pm

I'd love to do this climb with you.
I charge time and materials.
I really want to do this, so I won't charge my standard rate. I'll go down to $75/hr and won't charge any mobilization time. So figure $5400 for my time and probably $2000 for gear that we'll drop. I won't charge for gear that we still have after the climb.
$7400 is my estimate. Let's set the dates, I have to work this around some family obligations.
Cheers,
The marmot said “Nobody is perfect and you are not nobody.”

Random FoTH Quotes

User avatar
Posts: 716
Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:46 pm
Location: Nidderdale, North Yorkshire

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby pvnisher » Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:52 pm

I was curious and bored, I couldn't even find a guide that advertises an El Cap climb. And that's saying something, because they do advertise 2-4 day climbs, like the Red Dihedral on Incredible Hulk (5.10b).
Prerequisites: Previous multi-pitch rock climbing experience required with the ability to follow rock climbs up to 5.10b in difficulty. Previous multi-pitch experience in an alpine environment recommended.

I'm all for aiming high, and hiring a guide to show you things that your dirtbag buddies can't do (safely).
For a 1:1 guide you're probably looking at $500-650 per day.

Pick something else in Yosemite. The place has 1 or 2 options.

Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:30 pm

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby climbingaggie03 » Fri Nov 16, 2012 12:50 am

Climbing El Cap is a great goal/challenge however you're probably not going to find a guide service to haul you up it, even just jumaring up all the pitches would be exhausting and not something I'd want to try to do with someone who can barely jug up a rope. My advice would be, check out super topo and mtn project. Super topo even has a book called road to the nose. If you really want to climb the nose or triple direct, or some other route on el cap, I'd start with getting your free climbing systems dialed on long routes, then try something like the south face of washington collumn and/or west face of leaning tower.

If you cruise through that, you may have a good shot at the nose. Moving with a good speed on long free routes takes alot of work at getting efficient. Big walls add more to that, like big wall anchors, aid climbing, and hauling. Not to mention the logistics get more complicated. I'd do alot of climbing, reading, and practice aiding. Bad news is, it's pretty hard to just go jump on the nose and actually succeed (though you are free to do that) the good news is that the process of preparing for the nose; climbing your first 15 pitch free routes, climbing your first wall, sleeping on a ledge, it's all alot of fun.

if you're on the front range, I'd be down to climb with you, get some good pitches in and talk about the valley. My main wall partner has kind of quit climbing so I'm in the market for a new one. I'll admit though that I sometimes sketch out on hard pitches, lead slow on hard aid, and have fallen asleep while belaying aid pitches (that's what gri-gri's are for) :)

Also (almost) nobody climbs in the valley in january, people have been killed by snow storms in october (though sometimes you do get some decent weather in January) the high seasons are may(ish) and october(ish)

Posts: 93
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 6:10 am

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby Alpineair » Fri Nov 16, 2012 6:31 am

http://www.yosemitepark.com/rock-climbing-rates.aspx

What they don't mention is before they will take you up El Cap, they want to climb Washington Column with you to be sure you can handle the exposure. Add another $1200 or so to budget.
Good luck whenever you go!
I'm not anti-social, I'm anti-stupid!

User avatar
Posts: 130
Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 6:42 pm
Location: Westminster, CO

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby mts4602 » Fri Nov 16, 2012 6:46 am

Yosemite Mountaineering School does guide El Cap
Matt

Posts: 397
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 8:26 am

Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby Gabriel » Fri Nov 16, 2012 8:27 am

If the nose on El Cap inspires you, climb it. Many on this site will discourage you. Pay no attention to the negative naysayers. Their horizon seems to end at Grays and Torrey's.

Good Luck,

G

Next

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests