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El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing?
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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby Winter8000m » Fri Nov 16, 2012 5:24 pm

What is El Cap? and where is it?
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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby smoove » Fri Nov 16, 2012 6:30 pm

Winter8000m wrote:What is El Cap? and where is it?


It's just some 7er somewhere in California. Hardly worth noting.

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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby Tommy Dorr » Fri Nov 16, 2012 8:42 pm

I'm pretty sure the dude posted as a point of amusement.

I for one, laughed a bit over it.
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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby climbingaggie03 » Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:25 pm

Fletch wrote:Anybody here climb the Nose?

Didn't think so.

Give the guy a break until proven otherwise.


yup, I've been up it

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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby oldschool » Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:49 pm

Done it several times.......a worthy route to say the least. Better than the Diamond.

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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby DaveSwink » Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:52 pm

Fletch wrote:Anybody here climb the Nose?


No, but I have climbed Royal Arches which ascends a Yosemite Valley face! It is about a 1000' lower......ummm and it's a bit easier (like 5.7). :-D

Edit: OK, full disclosure, I climbed it in August not January.

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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby DeucesWild » Fri Nov 16, 2012 11:36 pm

I think Captain Kirk almost climbed the Nose.

But he almost climbed it in much better weather than January typically offers.
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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby d_baker » Sat Nov 17, 2012 3:53 am

Fletch wrote:Sweet! Old school and Aggie, give the guy some pointers, will you? So we can just be done with this thread already.


see page 1....

climbingaggie03 wrote:Climbing El Cap is a great goal/challenge however you're probably not going to find a guide service to haul you up it, even just jumaring up all the pitches would be exhausting and not something I'd want to try to do with someone who can barely jug up a rope. My advice would be, check out super topo and mtn project. Super topo even has a book called road to the nose. If you really want to climb the nose or triple direct, or some other route on el cap, I'd start with getting your free climbing systems dialed on long routes, then try something like the south face of washington collumn and/or west face of leaning tower.

If you cruise through that, you may have a good shot at the nose. Moving with a good speed on long free routes takes alot of work at getting efficient. Big walls add more to that, like big wall anchors, aid climbing, and hauling. Not to mention the logistics get more complicated. I'd do alot of climbing, reading, and practice aiding. Bad news is, it's pretty hard to just go jump on the nose and actually succeed (though you are free to do that) the good news is that the process of preparing for the nose; climbing your first 15 pitch free routes, climbing your first wall, sleeping on a ledge, it's all alot of fun.

if you're on the front range, I'd be down to climb with you, get some good pitches in and talk about the valley. My main wall partner has kind of quit climbing so I'm in the market for a new one. I'll admit though that I sometimes sketch out on hard pitches, lead slow on hard aid, and have fallen asleep while belaying aid pitches (that's what gri-gri's are for) :)

Also (almost) nobody climbs in the valley in january, people have been killed by snow storms in october (though sometimes you do get some decent weather in January) the high seasons are may(ish) and october(ish)

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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby danbrady3 » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:29 pm

Haha sorry guys, I haven't updatedy profile in a few years. I've been trad climbing now for 2 years and spent my summer in Colorado climbing.

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Re: El Cap- Nose, Partner, January

Postby Brian C » Thu Nov 29, 2012 12:36 pm

Dan - If you're ever around the Front Range I would be happy to take you out aid climbing and show you what little but I know.

- Brian

Edit: I may have misread your earlier post. It didn't say you didn't know how to aid. I meant I'd be happy to team up and do some aid climbing.
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