Teakettle North Approach?

[Marmot72]

Hi. Roach describes only the standard route on Teakettle, but mentions there are several. I looked but could not find a trip report of any alternate routes.

I'm wondering if anyone has knowledge of the north face of the peak. I've got Sneffels on my list this summer and would like to throw the Teakettle into the mix. I want to avoid the Yankee crowds and go at it from the Dallas Creek TH, using the Blue Lakes approach to Sneffels SW ridge. From there, it looks like I can hook back down via the Lavender Col to then descend into Blaine Basin, and then on my way over to Teakettle. Or perhaps each peak will merit its own day - but the contours don't look too ugly north of Teakettle - I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience of that approach.

[Kiefer]

From looking at the topo's at Blaine Basin, there doesn't appear to be any kind of trail into the East Fork of Blaine Basin.
I don't know of anyone who's actually ventured up in there. Looking down the North Face from the summit, it was pretty dam steep .
I don't think it's anything I would want to do, especially considering the horrendous state of the rock. I mean, even on the standard SE Ridge Route, the rock is nightmarish. And THAT'S well trodden. The whole massif is volcanic.
I imagine, Ken Nolan, John Prater, Aaron Ihinger, Kirk Mallory or Sarah Meiser would know more about this approach.
Teakettle, even in the busy summer months doesn't see a lot of climbers.

If I were to approach it, I'd do it as a snow climb only, with the possibility of abseiling the cliff band.
I think an attempt of this side would garner a lot of attention.


North Face of Teakettle. --from Summitpost (J. Brauer)

[d_baker]

I would check out the Weehawken Basin. (sp?)
Could do Potosi from there as well.

[DaveLanders]

East Blaine Basin is not too difficult to get into, even without a trail. Just follow the drainage from where it intersects
the Blaine Basin trail; the trees are sparse enough that it's not a difficult bushwhack to treeline; then it's wide open.
I climbed the west side of Ridgway from there; the rock was horrible. I should have gone a month earlier when there was
still snow. Weehawken Basin is also a cool place. There is a trail to about treeline, and then there are bits and pieces of
trail after that. I agree with the comments that any attempts on Teakettle from either of these two approaches should
only be done as snow climbs.

[sgladbach]

Some photos from Rt Ridgeway looking across Weehawken Basin at the NNE face of Potosi
http://www.14ers.com/images/userpics/u3 ... 193432.jpg

http://www.14ers.com/images/userpics/u3 ... 3253_l.jpg

[lordhelmut]

From looking at the topo's at Blaine Basin, there doesn't appear to be any kind of trail into the East Fork of Blaine Basin.
I don't know of anyone who's actually ventured up in there. Looking down the North Face from the summit, it was pretty dam steep .
I don't think it's anything I would want to do, especially considering the horrendous state of the rock. I mean, even on the standard SE Ridge Route, the rock is nightmarish. And THAT'S well trodden. The whole massif is volcanic.
I imagine, Ken Nolan, John Prater, Aaron Ihinger, Kirk Mallory or Sarah Meiser would know more about this approach.
Teakettle, even in the busy summer months doesn't see a lot of climbers.

If I were to approach it, I'd do it as a snow climb only, with the possibility of abseiling the cliff band.
I think an attempt of this side would garner a lot of attention.


North Face of Teakettle. --from Summitpost (J. Brauer)

Looks like some sick snow climbs there Kiefer......

[Chicago Transplant]

Some photos from Rt Ridgeway looking across Weehawken Basin at the NNE face
http://www.14ers.com/images/userpics/u3 ... 193432.jpg

http://www.14ers.com/images/userpics/u3 ... 3253_l.jpg

Note that these are of Potosi, not Teakettle. That snow route on Potosi is one that is high on my list for this spring, thanks for the pics! :D

[Marmot72]

Thanks, all. You've given me more to think about. I love the San Juans; just not the gas and time off required to get out there from Denver, thus I was looking at just one trip for a week in August to get the Wilson Group, Sneffels, and a few of the interesting 13ers in the area...

Happy trails.