Ice on Ice?

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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susanjoypaul
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Ice on Ice?

Post by susanjoypaul »

Has anyone been up to Ice or North Apostle in the past couple of weeks? Trip reports all seem to end mid- to late-September, so I'm wondering if the conditions tend to deteriorate for those peaks around that time, and what they're like right now. I'm mostly concerned about ice and snow. I'll assume that they're both still steep and loose :D

Any recent beta? Thanks!
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Rich H
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by Rich H »

roach was wrong about ice's standard route being class 3...I don't know if he had spent some time in California came back and climbed it and labeled it class 3 or there were more holds or I just screwed it up when I climbed it...but that is not your usual class 3
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Jon Frohlich
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by Jon Frohlich »

I can't remember, does the 13er book actually say Class 3? I thought general agreement was Class 4. I had hoped to get up there this year but ran out of time.
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Papillon
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by Papillon »

There was a hint of snow on the last 100 feet of Ice Mountain last Sunday but nothing to worry about. More specifically, it was all in a 20 foot stretch in the gully. North Apostle was dry.

Good luck Susan...
The look in his eyes when it hit - Kid, it was tasty... - William Seward Burroughs
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Rich H
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by Rich H »

roach labels it 3rd class but yeah I think it is more loose 4th
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Matt
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by Matt »

Papillon wrote:There was a hint of snow on the last 100 feet of Ice Mountain last Sunday but nothing to worry about. More specifically, it was all in a 20 foot stretch in the gully. North Apostle was dry.

Good luck Susan...
There was a bit of Ice lower down from the crux section that day, but, again, nothing to worry about.
Going up the final gully, one can go left (class 3) or right, which looked harder, but nothing crazy. You'd have to ask KevinK, since he went right, if it's class 4.
IMO, I never hit any 4th class stuff, but I freely admit not paying much attention while climbing to decide what class the route might be. Loose, yes. Hard, no, and I am no rock climber.
Good luck 'crushing' Ice, Susan.
We are all greater artists than we realize -FWN
A man is rich in proportion to the number of things he can afford to let alone. -HDT
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susanjoypaul
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by susanjoypaul »

Thanks Rich and Jon, for the heads-up on the potential difficulty of those peaks. That Gerry is such a kidder! I'll review what he has to say in his 13ers book. It looks like there are some pretty good trip reports out there too. Printing those out now...

Thanks Brian and Matt, too. Guess if I had checked LoJ I would have seen that you guys were *just* up there! It sounds like it's pretty dry, and the little ice and snow that is up there is avoidable, so that's good news. And if it's somewhere between class 3 and 4, then I shouldn't have any problems. The loose rock worries me more, so I'll take that into consideration, and just plan on a long, slow day.
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Rich H
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by Rich H »

good luck Susan. I think there was a good one in the Summitpost that shows both options at the crux. I love the roach's and I am a huge fan of their books.

I could have just missed the route and made it more difficult than it was.

rich
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Papillon
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by Papillon »

susanjoypaul wrote:Thanks Rich and Jon, for the heads-up on the potential difficulty of those peaks. That Gerry is such a kidder! I'll review what he has to say in his 13ers book. It looks like there are some pretty good trip reports out there too. Printing those out now...

Thanks Brian and Matt, too. Guess if I had checked LoJ I would have seen that you guys were *just* up there! It sounds like it's pretty dry, and the little ice and snow that is up there is avoidable, so that's good news. And if it's somewhere between class 3 and 4, then I shouldn't have any problems. The loose rock worries me more, so I'll take that into consideration, and just plan on a long, slow day.
Who's Brian?
The look in his eyes when it hit - Kid, it was tasty... - William Seward Burroughs
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susanjoypaul
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by susanjoypaul »

Papillon wrote:
susanjoypaul wrote: Thanks Brian and Matt, too. Guess if I had checked LoJ I would have seen that you guys were *just* up there! It sounds like it's pretty dry, and the little ice and snow that is up there is avoidable, so that's good news. And if it's somewhere between class 3 and 4, then I shouldn't have any problems. The loose rock worries me more, so I'll take that into consideration, and just plan on a long, slow day.
Who's Brian?
Brian, Kevin... five letters, two vowels, three consonants, two syllables... I can't keep all your names straight. Going forward I will just refer to you as "that guy that Wooderson puts up with."

I still refer to my own kids as Thing One and Thing Two some days... :D
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Papillon
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by Papillon »

susanjoypaul wrote:Brian, Kevin... five letters, two vowels, three consonants, two syllables... I can't keep all your names straight. Going forward I will just refer to you as "that guy that Wooderson puts up with."

I still refer to my own kids as Thing One and Thing Two some days... :D
Sounds good, Susan. :)

Be careful up there...
The look in his eyes when it hit - Kid, it was tasty... - William Seward Burroughs
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TravelingMatt
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Re: Ice on Ice?

Post by TravelingMatt »

Whoa boy, I'm in the "Ice is class 3" camp. I went up the (climber's) right gully and down the (climber's) left one. If that's Class 4, so is the standard route on Lindsey (which I did today). Gerry generally takes a hard line on rating stuff, a philosophy I have come to agree with. I thought Grizzly was harder than Ice.

I doubt there is any snow anywhere on Ice right now.
You never know what is enough until you know what is more than enough. -- William Blake
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