Jagged Raps

[TomPierce]

I know of some rappel anchors on the summit of Jagged Mountain, and have read that they are set with the intent of a rappel down the north face using two 60m ropes. Has anyone here done that rappel, and do you recall that twin 60's were absolutely required, i.e. could twin 50's do just fine? Could a single rope work, but you'd just have to break the rappel into two shorter raps instead of one long one, i.e. there were a few ledges on the way down, etc? Any info would be most appreciated, thanks.

-Tom

[martinleroux]

You don't need to rappel down the N Face from the summit. Most people downclimb the standard ascent route. This usually involves a few short rappels - a single rope is fine.

[TomPierce]

Thanks Martin. That's certainly an option, but we were looking to speed the descent if things take longer than expected; not much fun to downclimb in the dark, even with a headlamp. Just an option to explore. Thanks again.
-Tom

[John Landers]

Hi Tom,

My opinion would be to minimize the amount of rope and technical gear you hump in there. I have no idea why anybody would want two 60 meter ropes on Jagged. Unless you have a large or inexperienced party, take half a rope, some webbing and a few pieces of small to medium size pro. The down climb on the south side is on solid rock and goes quickly by the best route. The trickiest part of the climb I thought was low down crossing a slopping slab covered in gravel. After that good route finding and it goes fairly quickly. From a campsite around 11,600' in the Leviathan drainage, one other person and I were able to do Jagged, Peak Five and Peak six in a day by traveling light. You are plenty good enough to go light.

[TomPierce]

I guess I should have clarified we're thinking of going in the next 2-3 weeks. It'll be work/family schedule and weather-dependent, of course. Hence the questions about a faster way off the top. Sorry about that.

[John Landers]

Sounds like fun. For what it is worth when you get on the south side and turn left to ascend, depending upon conditions on the ledges there is a crack about 5.4 or so that protects well slightly west of the summit before you would get to the standard ascent / descent ledges.

[TomPierce]

Many thanks, John. I'd read of that variation in a TR posted by a NM team several years ago. Good to know you think it's an option as well. Thanks again,
-Tom

[John Landers]

Many thanks, John. I'd read of that variation in a TR posted by a NM team several years ago. Good to know you think it's an option as well. Thanks again,
-Tom

I should have added that crack is about 75 below the summit, so you will have gone part around and up from the 13,620' saddle. Don't recall how any of the standard route ledges may or may not protect should they be icy.

[ptyrg]

I don't think a single 60 M will get you down. If your going to hump in twin ropes, I would say that the rap down the north face, could save at least, 45 min./1hour when conditions are wet/icy.

Peter

[mpeet]

Tom, Two 40 meter ropes will get you down the north face. you will reset half way down, The second rap station may be buried in snow as it is in a crevice. Carry something so you can dig to the rock. In the summer it is not an issue.

[TomPierce]

Perfect, mpeet. Good to know, thanks.

[nilaoire]

I have done the rap and it was fun and fast. We did see one lone climber who obviously didn't use a rope, rather him than me. He was the only non roped climber on the mountain that day.