Mt. Guyot Conditions

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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jmanner
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Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by jmanner »

Some friends and I were planning a standard climb and ski of Mount Guyot Saturday. I was wondering if any of you folks in Breck/Summit county can see it's Northwest face and tell me how it looks currently. Or at least the road conditions up there. I appreciate any help.

Thanks,

John
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by GoPackGo »

The NW face looks like it goes from the top. I was on my way home yesterday thinking that I should go ski it. I'm not sure of the road conditions. My guess is that the French Creek Road is still closed at the normal winter road closure.
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by jmanner »

GoPackGo wrote:The NW face looks like it goes from the top. I was on my way home yesterday thinking that I should go ski it. I'm not sure of the road conditions. My guess is that the French Creek Road is still closed at the normal winter road closure.
Awesome thanks :-D !! Any idea how many extra miles starting from the winter closure adds?
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

'Life is too short to ski groomers'

"That man's only desire was to stand, once only, on the summit of that glorious wedge of rock...I think anyone who loves the mountains as much as that can claim to be a mountaineer, too."-Hermann Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by GoPackGo »

It looks like the route description on 13ers.com has milege from the winter closure. Are you heading up French Creek and then heading into the Little French Creek drainage? If so, I don't think it is more than 4 miles to the summit if you gain the ridge near treeline.
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by jmanner »

Oh OK! Cool thanks 7-8 miler(half skied) is a good work out, but no sufferfest.(knock on wood)
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

'Life is too short to ski groomers'

"That man's only desire was to stand, once only, on the summit of that glorious wedge of rock...I think anyone who loves the mountains as much as that can claim to be a mountaineer, too."-Hermann Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by ameristrat »

There's a chance we'll be up that way too on Saturday. I'll give a holler if we see you!
You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know. - Rene Daumal
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by jmanner »

Oh cool! I think we may be starting around 8 am(we are leaving Wash Park area at 6:30).
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

'Life is too short to ski groomers'

"That man's only desire was to stand, once only, on the summit of that glorious wedge of rock...I think anyone who loves the mountains as much as that can claim to be a mountaineer, too."-Hermann Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by GoPackGo »

I have a picture of Guyot from my house in Summit Cove i can send you if you want to PM me your number. I'm having a bit of difficulty uploading it here, says the file is too big.
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

On Friday, I might be skiing "Swan Dive" (NE face "S" gully) on Guyot. If I get it, I'll post some info about snow conditions on the summit ridge, etc.
"When I go out, I become more alive. I just love skiing. The gravitational pull. When you ski steep terrain... you can almost get a feeling of flying." -Doug Coombs
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by jmanner »

Awesome thanks Bill!
A man has got to know his limitations.-Dr. Jonathan Hemlock or Harry Callahan or something F' it: http://youtu.be/lpzqQst-Sg8

'Life is too short to ski groomers'

"That man's only desire was to stand, once only, on the summit of that glorious wedge of rock...I think anyone who loves the mountains as much as that can claim to be a mountaineer, too."-Hermann Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by ameristrat »

If you get a look at it, could you advise on conditions of the finish to the E and SE Ridge? We are considering the SE Ridge route (in the CMC Snow Climbs book), and I know the finish can get really heavily corniced / windloaded on both sides. If it's a mess, we'll just stick to the NW Ridge. Thanks!
You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know. - Rene Daumal
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Re: Mt. Guyot Conditions

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

Ok, I have some info after a climb/ski of Guyot today...

We climbed the east ridge from Georgia Pass with crampons and it was snow all the way to the summit, with the exception of a dry patch down low, before the ridge steepens. Once at the top of the east ridge and where the southeast ridge joins, there's a long stretch of cornice which can easily be passed on the right, along the rocks. Here are shots of the east ridge, final portion of ridge and the steep pitch below the summit:
guyot_eridge1.jpg
guyot_eridge1.jpg (254.98 KiB) Viewed 723 times
guyot_upper1.jpg
guyot_upper1.jpg (252.44 KiB) Viewed 723 times
guyot_upper2.jpg
guyot_upper2.jpg (191.98 KiB) Viewed 723 times
And a look at the NE Gully (aka "Swan Dive"), which had excellent conditions:

With the ~40 degree entry, I'd rate the difficulty of this line at D7
guyot_negully1.jpg
guyot_negully1.jpg (317.2 KiB) Viewed 723 times
guyot_negully2.jpg
guyot_negully2.jpg (247.79 KiB) Viewed 723 times
corn, corn and more corn
guyot_negully3.jpg
guyot_negully3.jpg (236.72 KiB) Viewed 723 times
Additionally, the summit ridge was snow covered and it looked like it had snow over to the top of the NW Ridge route. On the way out, I did notice that the final ~100' of the NW Ridge route appears to be snow-free.
"When I go out, I become more alive. I just love skiing. The gravitational pull. When you ski steep terrain... you can almost get a feeling of flying." -Doug Coombs
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