Knife Point Technical Routes

[evolve]

Hi All,

Been drooling over photos of the 13er Knife Point in the Weminuche and am wondering if anyone knows of any established technical routes on it? The most aesthetic choice would be something on the West Face, but I'm thinking that's above my grade. I've been sizing up the North Ridge, which is quite a stunning line itself.

KnifePoint.jpg (211.49 KiB) Viewed 532 times

Photo Credit: http://www.13ers.com/peaks/userpics/lar ... 548358.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I see lots of possibilities. The dihedral in the center, or just to the right of it, finishing on the ridge. Or, the prominent dihedral left of center leading to a scrappy finish on broken ledges.

There's a whole lower section too, with some possibilities.

http://www.swaguides.com/trip_dispatche ... GP1000.JPG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hard to tell, but I think the following photo is from lower down.

http://www.14ers.com/images/trips/2009/ ... 0074_l.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Of course it's difficult to get a real sense of the scale, but it looks quite reasonable. And here are a couple of shots of the North Face, which looks like a blast as well.

http://www.13ers.com/peaks/userpics/lar ... 108358.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.14ers.com/images/trips/2009/ ... 0076_l.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Furthermore]

Here is some beta; really bad beta at that.

"Perhaps the most sustained technical ridge climb in the needles, Knife Point's spectacular 1,100-foot northwest spur, was climbed in 1977 by Alan Robers and Ted Kerasote." - Taken from Roof of the Rockies by William M. Bueler.

Upon further research,

"Northwest Spur- A technical route rated 5.7 A2 has been established on the northwest spur. The route was protected with nuts and a couple of knifeblades. Aid was used on a roof and a crack that would probably go free around 5.9 to 5.10. An account of the climb can be found in the May 1978 issue of Trail and Timberline." - Taken from The San Juan Mountains by Robert F. Rosebrough.

Sounds like some good free climbing potential. I know I have been thinking of some lines in the area.

[evolve]

Here's a great shot of the face and ridge.

http://mountainproject.com/images/5/83/ ... 2ff6ff.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

According to comments on MP there's a couple of routes. Apparently one of them goes at 5.10.

[evolve]

Fantastic! Thank you.