"Notch Couloir" Powell/McHenry's (RMNP)

[AlexeyD]

A bit off the radar, but anyone heard of or done this route?

[mtnjim]

It's a really nice little route. The snow or hopefully alpine ice section is steeper and shorter than Lambs Slide. The rock section up to McHenry's summit is also short and no real exposure since it drops to the saddle. Might be a little tricky if wet. I think of it as a mini-Keiners.

If you're going out over Powell, the easy 3rd class route around the back is obvious.

If descending towards Arrowhead, there's only one route that get's you out easily. I remember it as being fairly well cairn marked but there's at least one other cairned route that used to lead to a short vertical section with yellow sling using a rock as a chock.

The hike up from the Glacier Gorge trail to Solitude Lake is interesting. Not much of a trail and the start isn't obvious unless it's seen a lot of traffic recently.

[martinleroux]

Don't do as we did and attempt this late in the season. The top of couloir had melted out, and we had to climb up loose, microwave-sized blocks perched on 50 degree mud. It might be a nice climb earlier in the summer.

[AlexeyD]

Don't do as we did and attempt this late in the season. The top of couloir had melted out, and we had to climb up loose, microwave-sized blocks perched on 50 degree mud. It might be a nice climb earlier in the summer.

Thinking about it this weekend, which looks like about a month before you did it AND in a higher snow year.

If we were to protect it, can it be done with rock gear and pickets, or do you need screws?

[viejo]

Might want to clarify if you mean McHenry's notch between McHenry's and Powell, or Notch couloir on Longs. I'd assume you meant McHenry's notch, but others are commenting on the Long's route.

McHenry's notch from McHenry to Powell requires some route finding, and is probably class 3/4 in the summer with some looking around. It is often rappelled, but can be done without rope.

Also need to decide if you're climbing the notch from Sky Pond or traversing the notch from McHenry's to Powell.

There should be trip reports for this...

Correction: misread the earlier posts. They were commenting on McHenry's notch. Sorry.

[martinleroux]

If we were to protect it, can it be done with rock gear and pickets, or do you need screws?

Hard to say if you'll need screws, it depends how much snow cover is left. In Aug 2013 it was bare ice the whole way and we were glad we brought screws. It might be possible to set up rock belays on the side of the couloir but I'm not sure. I think we placed a couple of rock pieces on the climb out of the notch up to the summit of McHenry's (4th class or low 5th class).

I wouldn't bring pickets at this time of year, I doubt there'd be enough snow for those to be useful.

[AlexeyD]

It's a really nice little route. The snow or hopefully alpine ice section is steeper and shorter than Lambs Slide. The rock section up to McHenry's summit is also short and no real exposure since it drops to the saddle. Might be a little tricky if wet. I think of it as a mini-Keiners.

If you're going out over Powell, the easy 3rd class route around the back is obvious.

If descending towards Arrowhead, there's only one route that get's you out easily. I remember it as being fairly well cairn marked but there's at least one other cairned route that used to lead to a short vertical section with yellow sling using a rock as a chock.

The hike up from the Glacier Gorge trail to Solitude Lake is interesting. Not much of a trail and the start isn't obvious unless it's seen a lot of traffic recently.

Thanks for the info, this is useful. Regarding the descent: is the Arrowhead option you describe the same as the "northwest face" of Arrowhead? Alternatively, do you think descending Stone Man Pass might be easier/more obvious?

[mtnjim]

Coming up from Solitude to the base of the couloir, you'll come to an area of really big boulders in the valley floor. The descent route and the easy way up Arrowhead and McHenry's from this side leave from very near there. It should be cairned but the easiest route up is obvious enough even if it's not. This is where the descent comes back to the valley floor. It really isn't difficult to find coming down unless you're really tired and it's dark or raining. At least that's how I ended up at the yellow sling (probably gone by now) a couple of times. This would be much shorter than going down Stone Man, unless you just need the extra mileage and are looking for some different scenery.

Also, it seems to me that you can see the upper section of the couloir from Many Parks Curve on Trail Ridge road. I haven't thought to look over that way this summer but if you have a chance, it should tell you if it's melted out or not.

[AlexeyD]

Coming up from Solitude to the base of the couloir, you'll come to an area of really big boulders in the valley floor. The descent route and the easy way up Arrowhead and McHenry's from this side leave from very near there. It should be cairned but the easiest route up is obvious enough even if it's not. This is where the descent comes back to the valley floor. It really isn't difficult to find coming down unless you're really tired and it's dark or raining. At least that's how I ended up at the yellow sling (probably gone by now) a couple of times. This would be much shorter than going down Stone Man, unless you just need the extra mileage and are looking for some different scenery.

Also, it seems to me that you can see the upper section of the couloir from Many Parks Curve on Trail Ridge road. I haven't thought to look over that way this summer but if you have a chance, it should tell you if it's melted out or not.

Thanks! The rap anchor you're describing - is it on descender's left, or right, as you're coming down the ridge towards Arrowhead? If one were to rap off that anchor, where would it take you? Also, Summitpost seems to suggest that the NE ridge of Arrowhead is class 4. Any particular difficulties to be aware of on the ridge itself, prior to descending down toward the Solitude lakes?

[mtnjim]

I think I'm overcomplicating this for you. The yellow webbing was just the endpoint of a line of cairns I followed late one evening. Grabbed it and lowered myself over the edge and dropped the couple of feet to easy stuff, not more than a 10 foot bit. Descending it was left, west, of the easy route. It's probably a decade since I've been there and the sling was iffy then. Hopefully, someone has kicked down that odd line of cairns. I did end up there twice, though....

I really don't remember the NW route on Arrowhead being Class 4 at all, no exposure anywhere. It's been a while, but I've been up Arrowhead the easy way probably 3 times and descended from a NE ridge ascent once. I think I've done McHenry's Notch 5 times and I don't remember any Class 4 on the easiest descent.

Really, if it's light at all it'll be obvious.

[viejo]

If you're still needing some beta, image taken Aug. 2 2014.

photo-1.JPG (182.68 KiB) Viewed 1369 times

[AlexeyD]

[quote="viejo"]If you're still needing some beta, image taken Aug. 2 2014.

Thanks! Looks good!