13550 near Conundrum Hot Springs

[Mtnman200]

I know some of you have combined Unnamed 13550 with "Castleabra" (13,803'). I've already done "Castleabra" from Conundrum Hot Springs but didn't think about Unnamed 13550 because I was focusing on bicentennials at the time.

Now it looks like I'll be heading back to Conundrum Hot Springs to attempt a variety of peaks, including Unnamed 13550 but don't want to repeat "Castleabra" because it wasn't exactly one of my favorites. I was thinking about leaving the trail to the pass at about 11,400’ and climbing SSE to the Castleabra – 13550 saddle; then following the ridge SSW to the summit of 13550.

Has anybody done this route? I'm looking for feedback on whether it's a feasible route or not. Thanks!

[SoCool]

I've heard that your intended ridge is an easy scramble, maybe class 3?

[SarahT]

I think what you're describing is what I used as a descent route? If so then yes, it goes fine. You can find a few details in my trip report on this site. I'm not sure if its just 3rd class or a bit of 4th near the top, snow complicated things a little for us.

13550.JPG (288.46 KiB) Viewed 1176 times

[SoCool]

snow complicated things a little for us.

From Sarah's TR, (following the ridge from Castleabra subpeak south to Pt 13,550):
"From near the saddle it was a relative stroll for a while and we thought we were home free… until we discovered that a series of towers were in our way. We slowly and carefully made our way up and over them or across exposed junky ledges to pass by them. Snow complicated the route in one or two places, and routefinding was tedious. The climb to this point had been 4th class, but we ended with a few 5th class moves right below the summit to avoid the obvious route buried under a steep snow slope. The traverse, although less than a mile long, took 2:30!

We had been considering going on to UN 13162, the next summit along the ridge, but it didn't look like it was at all possible. We were tired and this wasn't too big of a disappointment. The hot springs were calling. Unfortunately there was no choice but to run the ridge back to near the saddle. We found a workaround on the east side to avoid the 5th class downclimb and carefully made our way back through the numerous obstacles.

From the saddle we descended west down a broad, low angle couloir on snow and talus and it delivered us efficiently to Conundrum Basin."

Also Furthermore has a TR to this peak, but he took an indirect route along the east side of the ridge rather than the crest.

[Mtnman200]

Thanks for the feedback. I saw SarahT's report but there were no photos, so I wasn't positive of her route.

[DaveLanders]

I combined 13162 and 13550 on a day hike from the Twin Lakes trail on the south side of these peaks (TH is at about 10,400' on the Pearl Pass road; 4wd required). I climbed 13162 first, then headed east to 13550. Most of the ridge between 13162 and 13550 goes with 3rd class scrambling. Somewhere around 13,300' or 13,400', as I got close to 13550, the ridge got too difficult. I was able to do an ascending traverse across the south face of 13550 to the SE ridge at about 13,500'. The summit was easy from there. I don't remember how hard it would be to reach the 13162/13550 saddle from the hot springs side; it was easy from the south. If you can reach the saddle from the hot springs side, then the rest of this route would work no matter which side you did the initial approach from.