Routes like Atlantic and North Star

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Bob Kocher
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Routes like Atlantic and North Star

Post by Bob Kocher »

Hello All,

At the risk of duplicating a previous thread, I'm looking for suggestions for winter routes similar to Atlantic's west ridge, North Star or Kelso Ridge. "What's a relatively low avy prone route that leads to a fun ridge?" seems to be a popular question, but most of the answers have been Atlantic, North Star or Kelso and my climbing partner has done all of those and while they're still on my wish list I'm trying to find similar routes he hasn't done yet. Mt. Bancroft is another similar route, although we did it this past Spring.

We're looking at a day trip, so ideally something less than 2.5 hrs from Colorado Springs. Open to 12ers and on up.

We are considering Quandary's west ridge (he's done it in Nov). Also considering Mt Guyot's SE ridge as described in Cooper's Snow Climbs book, although I think we'll have significant mileage to walk on the road to Georgia Pass. While tamer, we're also considering the NW ridge of Guyot thanks to koeffling's recent TR.

Thanks in advance.
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AlexeyD
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Re: Routes like Atlantic and North Star

Post by AlexeyD »

FWIW, the NE ridge of Father Dyer (class 3) looked pretty snow-free as of this Saturday. However, the descent via Crystal could be dicey w/out skis (read latest condition report).
Fabio 49
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Re: Routes like Atlantic and North Star

Post by Fabio 49 »

Hoosier Ridge was pretty low risk avy danger when I climbed it a few weeks ago, but very windy even on a calm day. You can make it to Red Peak A as well with minimal snow.
"The man on top of the mountain didn't fall there." -Vince Lombardi-
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Bob Kocher
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Re: Routes like Atlantic and North Star

Post by Bob Kocher »

Thanks for the suggestions. We considered the Father Dyer route (coupled with the traverse to Helen) although it didn't happen this weekend. But it's on the to-do list now.
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AlexeyD
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Re: Routes like Atlantic and North Star

Post by AlexeyD »

Bob Kocher wrote:Thanks for the suggestions. We considered the Father Dyer route (coupled with the traverse to Helen) although it didn't happen this weekend. But it's on the to-do list now.
Be aware that if there's enough new snow to increase avy danger significantly, there may no longer be a safe way to exit via the Crystal Lakes drainage. In this case, the best way do descend may be by going over Peak 10 and eventually cutting back on the road towards Francie's Cabin. On the other hand, if this is the case, Father Dyer might not be the best choice in the first place, as even some of the slopes on the approach might become unstable.
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