Bancroft east ridge

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jerseybrian
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Bancroft east ridge

Post by jerseybrian »

Has anyone done this without a rope? All the trip reports I found mention a rappel into the notch. Looks like a great scramble! Thanks!
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gurlyclimber
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by gurlyclimber »

My partner and I did it without a rope. We climbed a snow filled gulley on the North side that lead us to the point below the rap. The scrambling was really fun.
RBski
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by RBski »

I remember reading a trip report years ago that was intentionally left vague stating they kept the route to class 3. Sounded like the route finding was difficult but doable.
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by GregMiller »

I've done it with a rope, and then watched folks downclimb the climber's left side of the ridge (at roughly class 3) to get into the notch, then climb around the climber's left side from the notch back up onto the ridge.
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AyeYo
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by AyeYo »

I've wanted to do this one for awhile now. Why does the standard route call for the rappel if there's an easy bypass?
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gspup
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by gspup »

AyeYo wrote:I've wanted to do this one for awhile now. Why does the standard route call for the rappel if there's an easy bypass?
To keep the turds away. ](*,)
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Monster5
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by Monster5 »

AyeYo wrote:Why does the standard route call for the rappel if there's an easy bypass?
1. It makes the route a bit more unique and memorable for mountaineers first delving into the technical mountaineering game, for which this route is recommended. A rappel on a narrow rugged ridge is kind of cool and fun.

2. It stays "proper," for whatever that's worth to you.

3. This route is a great option and often done in the shoulder seasons and winter when the bypass isn't as straight-forward.
"The road to alpine climbing is pocked and poorly marked, ending at an unexpectedly closed gate 5 miles from the trailhead." - MP user Beckerich
jerseybrian
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by jerseybrian »

Monster5 wrote:
AyeYo wrote:Why does the standard route call for the rappel if there's an easy bypass?
1. It makes the route a bit more unique and memorable for mountaineers first delving into the technical mountaineering game, for which this route is recommended. A rappel on a narrow rugged ridge is kind of cool and fun.

2. It stays "proper," for whatever that's worth to you.

3. This route is a great option and often done in the shoulder seasons and winter when the bypass isn't as straight-forward.
Thanks! It looked like there might be a 3/4 option but wasn't sure. Don't necessarily want to bring a rope for one rap but maybe just for fun. The climb out looks pretty easy.
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AlexeyD
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by AlexeyD »

AyeYo wrote:I've wanted to do this one for awhile now. Why does the standard route call for the rappel if there's an easy bypass?
"Easy" is a relative term. In many cases, a simple, short rap is a lot easier, faster, and safer than an exposed, downward-sloping class 3/4 traverse that is not at all obvious to find (at least didn't seem obvious from above the notch, from what I recall).

Also, what Monster5 said.

PS - if you do bring the rope, I recommend staying right on the ridge crest for a couple of additional 5.easy pitches. Much more fun and solid, plus it makes it feel like hauling the rope all the way up is more justified :)
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atalarico
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by atalarico »

Yeah, I did this a few years ago, and my partner and I are both pretty competent alpine climbers (e.g. soloing most everything shy of 5.fun, and roping up for technical routes up things like the Diamond, Sharkstooth, Hallet's, etc.).

I climbed around up there looking for a way to down-climb it for a few minutes. I was looking directly down and climber's right, and didn't think to look off to climber's left for a by-pass scramble. It's certainly not an insignificant height, so we just used the rap. I have a short little retired gym line that was perfect length, and a full 60 or 70m rope would be overkill. I don't recall how long that line is off the time of my head though, but if I had to guess I'd say 60-70 feet (judging by the climbing wall height that it was barely used on).

That being said, climbing some of the other 5.fun stuff on climber's right after the notch is a great idea if you already brought gear. We didn't, but only because we were running a bit late.
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AyeYo
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by AyeYo »

AlexeyD wrote:
AyeYo wrote:I've wanted to do this one for awhile now. Why does the standard route call for the rappel if there's an easy bypass?
"Easy" is a relative term. In many cases, a simple, short rap is a lot easier, faster, and safer than an exposed, downward-sloping class 3/4 traverse that is not at all obvious to find (at least didn't seem obvious from above the notch, from what I recall).
Not if you don't have any gear. :P
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Re: Bancroft east ridge

Post by jkillgore »

I felt the downclimb unroped was no harder than the direct line back out of the notch. I headed down and slightly climbers left to the lower rappel then moved climbers right. Positive moves just a little loose. Easier than other popular down scrambles like those off the 1st or 3rd flatirons.
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