Maroon Bell Epic

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peakmind
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Maroon Bell Epic

Post by peakmind »

I've just finished a trip report (and "what went wrong" study) of a summit attempt on South Maroon Bell a few years ago. Several lessons learned.

http://peakmind.wordpress.com/2009/01/12/the-long-bell/
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rastro
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by rastro »

i say this from first hand experience - attempting Maroon Peak alone is idiotic. In addition, gaining the ridge before 11:00am is crucial. My first attempt on Maroon got me way off route approx. 500-750 ft. from the ridge, and I got myself into a steep gully to nowhere; I was thankful to simply get off the mountain that day. The following year I made sure I had a partner (however weak he ended up being) and successfully summited. Bottom line: although I've summited over half of my 26 peaks solo (including Kit Carson/Challenger) being on Maroon alone is extremely dangerous.
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ShadyHater69
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by ShadyHater69 »

I think it's all relative. I did South Maroon "alone" and didn't think it was idiotic. It was clearly within my abilities and I was prepared. in fact, I felt better on that climb than others I have done with partners.
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BillMiddlebrook
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

Climbing peaks like Maroon or North Maroon isn't idiotic if you're well-prepared and have the right skills. Sure, it would be harder to get help if something happens, but that doesn't make it idiotic. There are several devices that you can carry that will raise your odds of survival if something goes wrong.

My advice for the solo climber: Plan, plan and plan some more. Stick to the plan and know when to turn back. If you're not good at route-finding, bring a partner who is.
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Titan_20
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by Titan_20 »

I did the maroon bells traverse solo(North to south) this last summer and I had a blast. I have a lot to learn but I thought it was reasonable I researched the route looking at TR's and pics and I had a pretty good idea of what to expect while I feel it was a challenge but I don't think it was idiotic. As far as hiking up south maroon the first time I attempted it I had a difficult time finding the route up to the ridge as well and I don't really think I was on it for well over half of the treck up from the valley floor but I met the trail at the top of the ridge. Unfortunately I had to turn around due to weather and wait a day to attempt the traverse.
Finished the 14ers in colorado :) If anyone ever needs a partner to hike with PM me I usually climb solo. I hike, rock climb, and snowboard as much as my schedule will allow.
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Floyd
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by Floyd »

rastro wrote:i say this from first hand experience - attempting Maroon Peak alone is idiotic. In addition, gaining the ridge before 11:00am is crucial.
Claimbing a 14er standard route alone idiotic??? If you go on a summer weekend, very seldom will you find yourself alone - especially if you are going late enough to gain the ridge around 11:00 am. If Maroon is your 1st mountain, yes, it may be construed as irresponsible, but there are plenty of people with ample experience to handle that mountain alone.

I attempted Maroon "alone" last summer. Found a partner at the base of the slope and a pair at the summit to accompany me on the traverse. Had a great time and met some great people along the way.
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CUaaron25
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by CUaaron25 »

BillMiddlebrook wrote:Climbing peaks like Maroon or North Maroon isn't idiotic if you're well-prepared and have the right skills. Sure, it would be harder to get help if something happens, but that doesn't make it idiotic. There are several devices that you can carry that will raise your odds of survival if something goes wrong.

My advice for the solo climber: Plan, plan and plan some more. Stick to the plan and know when to turn back. If you're not good at route-finding, bring a partner who is.
+1
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vertical-pimp
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by vertical-pimp »

rastro wrote:i say this from first hand experience - attempting Maroon Peak alone is idiotic.
thankfully you don't sign the pimp's permission slips to climb
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KeithK
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by KeithK »

CUaaron25 wrote:
BillMiddlebrook wrote:Climbing peaks like Maroon or North Maroon isn't idiotic if you're well-prepared and have the right skills. Sure, it would be harder to get help if something happens, but that doesn't make it idiotic. There are several devices that you can carry that will raise your odds of survival if something goes wrong.

My advice for the solo climber: Plan, plan and plan some more. Stick to the plan and know when to turn back. If you're not good at route-finding, bring a partner who is.
+1
What would YOU know about doing Maroon solo, Aaron??? :wink:
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Presto
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by Presto »

Gosh, rastro, I'd have to agree with many of the comments above. I've climbed both Maroon Peak and South Maroon multiple times. For peaks like those (and there's a few 14ers that would qualify), it certainly depends upon the individual's route finding abilities and climbing level abilities when soloing. Obviously, if a person isn't good at finding cairns, noting landmarks and generally not paying attention to the route, climbing alone is a questionable proposition no matter how difficult the peak is to climb.

I must admit I also take some exception to the blanket statement that "if you're not on the ridge by 11:00 a.m." What if the weather is perfect ... do you still have to be on the ridge by 11:00 a.m.? The first time we did that traverse (north to south), we took all day to complete it ... heck, we finished our 14ers quest on that day. There's no way I'm rushing up and across and down just to fit a time table. We had great weather all day. The second time we did the traverse (north to south), we were caught by a freakish hail storm about 100 feet below the summit of South Maroon. We had to wait it out for 4 hours and barely made it down to the trail in time to pull out our headlamps.

When climbing, at least with my experience, you deal with the hand that is dealt to you and do the best you can. We all would prefer "ideal weather conditions, routes that are clearly marked (okay, maybe not always :wink: ), and timetables that fit our desires", but alas, such is not the case all the time. And, I'm glad for it ... you learn and grow from experiences like that. This certainly holds true when you start climbing peaks that are less popular than 14ers and for that I am very thankful. Happy trails! :D
As if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM
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cheeseburglar
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by cheeseburglar »

I'm wondering why you call it a summit attempt when you did make the summit?
Doesn't the word attempt imply failure?
Sounds like you had a good time.
My first ascent of S. Maroon was solo. Although there were some other people on the mountain that day. I had Roach's book with me and had no problem finding the route. I'd also donated blood that week so I spent much of the climb feeling kind of dizzy. Good fun.
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CUaaron25
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Re: Maroon Bell Epic

Post by CUaaron25 »

KeithK wrote:
CUaaron25 wrote:
BillMiddlebrook wrote:Climbing peaks like Maroon or North Maroon isn't idiotic if you're well-prepared and have the right skills. Sure, it would be harder to get help if something happens, but that doesn't make it idiotic. There are several devices that you can carry that will raise your odds of survival if something goes wrong.

My advice for the solo climber: Plan, plan and plan some more. Stick to the plan and know when to turn back. If you're not good at route-finding, bring a partner who is.
+1
What would YOU know about doing Maroon solo, Aaron??? :wink:
Enough to plan it much better next time :oops:
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