Ellingwood ledges/ arête

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runnerofmountain
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Ellingwood ledges/ arête

Post by runnerofmountain »

I'm looking for information, trip reports, and/or firsthand knowledge of alpine style ascents in winter conditions on peaks a little closer to home that could be used for training for bigger more committing mountains elsewhere in the world. I'm talking steep snow/ ice/ mixed routes on the Diamond/ Crestone massif and other classic Colorado alpine features. I'm looking for knowledge and beta here. No hearsay
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Dave B
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Re: Ellingwood ledges/ arête

Post by Dave B »

Probably wont find many trip reports for such climbs as it seems the caliber of climber doing those types of routes in those types of conditions rarely write trip reports.

Not sure why entirely. I just read an Andy Kirkpatrick interview that might explain it when he said "[Alpine] Climbing is like masturbation, it's fun to do but nobody wants to read about it." I disagree with the reading about it part but it may be the mentality of the climbers doing those routes.

Some of the more prominent Colorado alpinists and AMGA guides do maintain blogs but it's probably going to require some personal communications to get route specific beta for off season ascents. Mountain Project is a good place to find some of these people.

Edit - looking at the "tick list" for the Arete from MP users I see only a couple winter ascents. It might be worth contacting those people.
Last edited by Dave B on Wed May 14, 2014 1:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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XC Snowboarder
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Re: Ellingwood ledges/ arête

Post by XC Snowboarder »

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Re: Ellingwood ledges/ arête

Post by taylorzs »

I climbed the Ellingwood Arete in summer conditions. Here is the TR: http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . I have not done it winter conditions. It is climbable in winter but is really more of a pure rock climb
-Alexander's Chimney to the 8th route on Longs is an excellent ice climbing route in the late fall/early winter on Long's.
-Kiener's in late winter/early spring is excellent as well.
I have done both of these during those seasons.
I would look to guidebooks more than internet posts.
The guide to climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park is great
The Smear of Fear on the Diamond is a classic. Hallet's Chimney, various routes on the Chief's Head, Spearhead, and many other towers in the park have routes you may like if you have to skills to do them.
Good luck!
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dhgold
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Re: Ellingwood ledges/ arête

Post by dhgold »

Doesn't sound like Andy Kirkpatrick was familiar with Portnoy's Complaint, the poetry of Anne Sexton or Chris Miller's stories in National Lampoon, for starters.
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