EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

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Presto
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EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by Presto »

A few years ago, I started some threads of EPIC adventures (yes, the term is misused very often ... but, not in these reports). I thought I could just re-open the topics, but the links were gone. I did some searches .. here they are for your consumption.

In 1980, 9 climbers, 1 base camp cook, 3000 pounds of gear, 80 days, an ascent of Mt. Huntington. Dropped off in the middle of nowhere by a train, traveling cross country ... stunning photos.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=921453" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In 2008, 4 guys, 33 days, 3 re-supplies, driving, flying, fording, bushwhacking, wading, hiking, floating ... hanging out in St. Elias National Park. This is a cool photo trip report. Dropped in the middle of nowhere by a bush pilot, traveling cross country.

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/show ... -%28NSR%29" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In 2010, 2 guys, 6 days in February ... traversing the Picket Range in the North Cascades (yes, there are skis).

http://www.cascadecrusades.org/SkiMount ... ts2010.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
As if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM
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SkaredShtles
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by SkaredShtles »

I've always enjoyed Bell's report of their '86 climb of Denali's East Buttress: http://home.comcast.net/~gibell/trip_reports/punks.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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I Man
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by I Man »

SkaredShtles wrote:I've always enjoyed Bell's report of their '86 climb of Denali's East Buttress: http://home.comcast.net/~gibell/trip_reports/punks.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I personally find this report to be very inspiring.
http://pullharder.org/2011/06/23/an-ice ... -buttress/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

My team used this as inspiration for our May 2013 attempt, though fortunately some team dynamics caused us to make some alterations to the plan and eventually fall short of our goal. Commit to fast and light, or commit to full expedition style = but somewhere in between just doesn't work!!

Sadly, Ben, along with Gil, climbed their last route in Peru, summer of 2012. RIP.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by dillonsarnelli »

Presto wrote:In 2008, 4 guys, 33 days, 3 re-supplies, driving, flying, fording, bushwhacking, wading, hiking, floating ... hanging out in St. Elias National Park. This is a cool photo trip report. Dropped in the middle of nowhere by a bush pilot, traveling cross country.

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/show ... -%28NSR%29" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Damn! This needs to go on the bucket list. Thanks for posting these Presto.
Dillon Sarnelli
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SkaredShtles
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by SkaredShtles »

I Man wrote:<snip>

Sadly, Ben, along with Gil, climbed their last route in Peru, summer of 2012. RIP.
In the Cordillera? Goddam that range is dangerous... :(
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by I Man »

SkaredShtles wrote:
I Man wrote:<snip>

Sadly, Ben, along with Gil, climbed their last route in Peru, summer of 2012. RIP.
In the Cordillera? Goddam that range is dangerous... :(
Yea coming down an unknown ridge after putting up a new route. Shitty.

CB takes a dozen or so lives a season. Its an amazing place to climb though.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
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Presto
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by Presto »

by SkaredShtles » Mon Dec 22, 2014 3:23 pm
I've always enjoyed Bell's report of their '86 climb of Denali's East Buttress: http://home.comcast.net/~gibell/trip_reports/punks.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Excellent ... and, I appreciate their play on words from "White Punks on Dope" (having seen The Tubes a couple of times live). George does have a way with trip reports. Thanks for adding to the topic.

Happy trails! :-D
As if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM
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Brian C
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by Brian C »

I Man wrote:...Sadly, Ben, along with Gil, climbed their last route in Peru, summer of 2012. RIP.
I stumbled across a small memorial plaque to Gil in the Flatirons about a month ago. Very nice surprise. Not attached to anything though so hopefully it doesn't blow away.

PS - One of my favorites is Noah's report recapping the Fishers. A nice view into the mind of a maniac depressive and others with similar mental disorders.
Addicted to Fear - https://daring8000dreams.wordpress.com/ ... e-fishers/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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SkaredShtles
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by SkaredShtles »

You gotta have to be a bit mental to climb the Fisher Towers...
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kansas
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by kansas »

Great thread, Presto!

I had seen that first report when I was researching for a trip up there. While sitting below Huntington's north face for nine days watching almost constant serac collapses, my partners and I sat there trying to visiualize any non suicidal route from that side, I still cant believe they survived the route they took. The definition of alpinism right there, absolutely amazingly hard men.
"In the end, of course, it changed almost nothing. But I came to appreciate that mountains make poor receptacles for dreams."
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SkaredShtles
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by SkaredShtles »

This recent account of Mt. Alberta's north face is good: http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/2014/1 ... lberta-nf/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: EPIC Trip Reports - Revisited

Post by Presto »

Ah, Mr. SkaredShtles: My favorite story of Mt. Alberta is the first ascent of a Japanese party in 1925 (very well described in detail in the "Climbing in North America" book by Chris Jones ... Pages 91-99 to be exact :wink: ).

The group of 14 men (believe it or not, with a film camera) along with 39 horses left Jasper on July 11, 1925 taking six days just to get to base camp. On July 21st at 7:00 pm, nine men made the summit after 16 hours of climbing. Not by the north face ... that was way too technical with the gear they had ... they climbed via the east ridge (the most "penetrable" route at the time). This first visit by Japanese climbers was remarkable. They took the finest unclimbed peak in the Canadian Rockies and established the most demanding climb in North America.

A number of noted climbers responded to the romance of Mount Alberta; British climber Frank Smythe remarked, "I can only say of Alberta that I know of no alpine peak so difficult by its easiest route, and but one or two alpine routes to compare with the pitiless limestone slabs with no belays and few resting places".

That route was not climbed again until 1948 ... 23 years later by American climbers, Fred Ayers and John Oberlin. The two found the ice axe left on the summit by the leader Yuko Maki and his written summit record which ends with the statement, "we came from Japan so far called by this charming great mountain".
As if none of us have ever come back with a cool, quasi-epic story instead of being victim to tragic rockfall, a fatal stumble, a heart attack, an embolism, a lightning strike, a bear attack, collapsing cornice, some psycho with an axe, a falling tree, carbon monoxide, even falling asleep at the wheel getting to a mountain. If you can't accept the fact that sometimes "s**t happens", then you live with the illusion that your epic genius and profound wilderness intelligence has put you in total and complete control of yourself, your partners, and the mountain. How mystified you'll be when "s**t happens" to you! - FM
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