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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:05 pm

KentonB wrote:
Dancesatmoonrise wrote:Be sure to have a current valid permit, and read and follow the rules. The TG is notorious, and for good reason.

New seasonal closures affecting North Gateway went into effect as of April 1, 2012. Written information is provided with the permit.

Front Range Climbing is also a very knowledgeable and experienced resource regarding the Garden; highly recommended.

Thanks! And much appreciated. I've heard numerous stories of folks being rescued from that gully... including one in The Gazette just last week! As I stated earlier, my technical climbing skills are pretty limited. I've got a couple (more experienced) friends who will be going with me... but one of them has a torn calf muscle so we likely won't make it until next Fall.

Out of curiosity, I noticed Lists of John classifies Grey Rock to the south as a Class 5.0 climb as well. Any idea of the best approach to keeping it at that level?



The south summit of Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten, aka Cathedral) is class 4 if done from the south - in my opinion. I seem to recall that you want to start to the right of the practice area to keep it 4th. Or you can do an easy pitch of 5th off the ground to some anchors, then unroped the rest of the way. Here's a TR from New Year's day, last year.

http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=9522&parmuser=Dancesatmoonrise&cpgm=tripuser



Of course I have to slip a photo in here just b/c I love this one... : )

Image

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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby d_baker » Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:12 pm

KentonB wrote:Out of curiosity, I noticed Lists of John classifies Grey Rock to the south as a Class 5.0 climb as well. Any idea of the best approach to keeping it at that level?

You could try contacting Kevin Baker, he was working on a grid for that. I think he's been able to keep it at class 4. But there's one area that is a fun low class 5 for about 15' or so. Solid but steep. It's near the top before the summit as I recall.
Climb it up or down, just take your time and look for your feet & hands. The exposure is real, and a fall off of that particular section wouldn't end well.

Edit: the class 5 area that I'm talking about Kevin has been able to avoid by going climber's left in a gully.

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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby KentonB » Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:18 pm

Thanks guys! Appreciate all the tips!

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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:45 pm

PS - This area may be closed right now. I've got a call in for clarification. Bumped into a couple folks on the road and they said there was a sign there at the practice slabs (south side) posting the closure. The new rules (this year) post closures for Greyrock, but I'm unclear as to exactly where the closures are, and hopefully will have some clarification within the week.

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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Thu Apr 19, 2012 10:33 pm

Dancesatmoonrise wrote:PS - This area may be closed right now. I've got a call in for clarification. Bumped into a couple folks on the road and they said there was a sign there at the practice slabs (south side) posting the closure. The new rules (this year) post closures for Greyrock, but I'm unclear as to exactly where the closures are, and hopefully will have some clarification within the week.



Follow up. They are setting up to enforce closures when raptors are nesting, but currently, there are no closures on K-rock. The plan is to post any closures at route access points and at the route itself. So from the discussion today, gathered that if it's not posted, we're probably ok. (Didn't specifically discuss east side of N Gateway, or North end, but presume those are closed April 1-July 31 as usual, and as the rules currently say.) Hope that helps...

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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby KentonB » Fri Apr 20, 2012 5:47 am

It does! And thanks again! Since I live in the Springs, I'm not tied down to any particular dates. I'll just keep tabs on when they open. :-)

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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby Chipper » Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:41 am

d_baker wrote:
KentonB wrote:Out of curiosity, I noticed Lists of John classifies Grey Rock to the south as a Class 5.0 climb as well. Any idea of the best approach to keeping it at that level?

You could try contacting Kevin Baker, he was working on a grid for that. I think he's been able to keep it at class 4. But there's one area that is a fun low class 5 for about 15' or so. Solid but steep. It's near the top before the summit as I recall.
Climb it up or down, just take your time and look for your feet & hands. The exposure is real, and a fall off of that particular section wouldn't end well.

Edit: the class 5 area that I'm talking about Kevin has been able to avoid by going climber's left in a gully.


I think that the climb at the end of the gully is still a 10 or 15 ft class 5. I have rapped down that section rather than downclimbing. Consequences here are not horrific, but after the 15 ft, you would bounce down the gully a little ways.
We make no greater mistake than when we do nothing, because we could only do a little.

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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby KentonB » Sun Nov 25, 2012 11:26 pm

This is a long time coming, but I finally made it up North Gateway and Grey Rock this last week. Absolutely the most fun I've ever had climbing! Thanks everyone for the Beta... Just wanted to let you know it was not in vain!

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Re: Above the Camels...

Postby Dancesatmoonrise » Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:59 pm

Cool.

Congrats! =D>



What great fall weather for climbing this year!

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