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Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Info on gear, conditioning, and preparation for hiking/climbing. Gear Classifieds
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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby Dave B » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:10 pm

This is all far too complicated. I agree with RoadMtnMan. Get fit, spend as much time at altitude as possible before you trip and spend many nights above 9,000 feet before leaving.

After that details are superfluous, subjective and entirely dependent upon you schedule and acclimation on the mountain.
"There is no cheating in climbing, only lying." - Semi-Rad

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby gdthomas » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:38 pm

RoanMtnMan wrote:
gdthomas wrote:
It's no secret uber fit climbers can suffer from AMS due to rapid ascents. Regardless of your training regimen in Colorado, you're more likely to summit if you ascend slowly and limit your altitude gain each day.


True. But "uber fit" certainly helps because one sweats less and thus stays more hydrated. Hydration is so important at altitude due to the fact that dehydration exacerbates AMS. I also agree with the comment from MountainHiker about repetition using your gear, it is about as important as anything on a long expedition. When stuff goes bad you don't want to be fumbling around with a tent or stove in an oxygen deprived state.


I wasn't suggesting one shouldn't be fit starting the climb. I was responding to the OP's comment about Colorado climbers bonking more often than the average.

Dave B wrote:This is all far too complicated. I agree with RoadMtnMan. Get fit, spend as much time at altitude as possible before you trip and spend many nights above 9,000 feet before leaving.

After that details are superfluous, subjective and entirely dependent upon you schedule and acclimation on the mountain.


I disagree. The "details" are critical once you're on the mountain.

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby pbakwin » Wed Dec 05, 2012 9:19 pm

I climbed the Big A twice, each time going from base camp (14k) to the summit and back in one push, i.e., no camping on the mtn. If you have time, I advocate the "acclimate in Bolivia" method. In La Paz or Potosi you can be having a beer in a bar at 4000+m, and you can do easy day hikes to 5000+. On a nice tour of the southern altiplano you can climb easy 20000' volcanos. After a couple weeks of this (which is extremely cheap, and fun!) you zip down to Aconcagua, wait for the weather window & go. On my last trip we walked to base camp on Tues, rested Weds, summited Thurs & were out on Fri.

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby RoanMtnMan » Wed Dec 05, 2012 10:14 pm

pbakwin wrote:I climbed the Big A twice, each time going from base camp (14k) to the summit and back in one push, i.e., no camping on the mtn. If you have time, I advocate the "acclimate in Bolivia" method. In La Paz or Potosi you can be having a beer in a bar at 4000+m, and you can do easy day hikes to 5000+. On a nice tour of the southern altiplano you can climb easy 20000' volcanos. After a couple weeks of this (which is extremely cheap, and fun!) you zip down to Aconcagua, wait for the weather window & go. On my last trip we walked to base camp on Tues, rested Weds, summited Thurs & were out on Fri.


That is an impressive itinerary and it can obviously be done in this fashion, but I would not advocate it. Of course it should be said that our bodies all react differently to altitude and it is important to understand how your's works.

P.S. No argument from me gdthomas, I was only trying to add a little to your good thoughts.
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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby Dave B » Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:20 am

gdthomas wrote:
RoanMtnMan wrote:
gdthomas wrote:
It's no secret uber fit climbers can suffer from AMS due to rapid ascents. Regardless of your training regimen in Colorado, you're more likely to summit if you ascend slowly and limit your altitude gain each day.


True. But "uber fit" certainly helps because one sweats less and thus stays more hydrated. Hydration is so important at altitude due to the fact that dehydration exacerbates AMS. I also agree with the comment from MountainHiker about repetition using your gear, it is about as important as anything on a long expedition. When stuff goes bad you don't want to be fumbling around with a tent or stove in an oxygen deprived state.


I wasn't suggesting one shouldn't be fit starting the climb. I was responding to the OP's comment about Colorado climbers bonking more often than the average.

Dave B wrote:This is all far too complicated. I agree with RoadMtnMan. Get fit, spend as much time at altitude as possible before you trip and spend many nights above 9,000 feet before leaving.

After that details are superfluous, subjective and entirely dependent upon you schedule and acclimation on the mountain.


I disagree. The "details" are critical once you're on the mountain.


Semantics. Of course the details are critical. But the best you can do before leaving is:

Dave B wrote:Get fit, spend as much time at altitude as possible before you trip and spend many nights above 9,000 feet before leaving.
"There is no cheating in climbing, only lying." - Semi-Rad

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Re: Altitude Prep - Aconcagua

Postby kushrocks » Thu Dec 06, 2012 8:21 am

Regardless I hope this provides the original poster enough helpful info without starting another argument.

ThnkSno . . I hope you crush it down there. Looking forward to the trip report.

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