Forum
Buying gear? Please use these links to help 14ers.com:

More info...

Other ways to help...

Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Info on gear, conditioning, and preparation for hiking/climbing. Gear Classifieds
User avatar
Posts: 49
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 1:48 pm
Location: Erie, CO

Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby mtn114 » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:05 am

Hi, I'm looking for opinions on how well my old crampons fit my new boots, and whether I should drop for a new pair of crampons. I bought the Nepals for ice climbing, so I would probably get an ice climbing crampon like the cyborg if I was to buy a new pair. I've been told the secondary points are what really counts, so they need to contact the ice before the front of my boots. It seems like a pretty close call to me.

Thanks!
Attachments
flat front side.jpg
flat front side.jpg (175.03 KiB) Viewed 497 times
back.jpg
back.jpg (152.08 KiB) Viewed 497 times
front side.jpg
front side.jpg (153.46 KiB) Viewed 497 times
I see no reason
why our dear Baron's wisdom
should ever be forgot.
Continuing to spread his wisdom on:
Rock Climbing, Climbing Shoes, Rappelling, Layering, Eddie Bauer (nice try), Pants, Helmets, Ropes, Ice Axes, Tri-Cams, Carabiners

User avatar
Posts: 582
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 4:38 pm
Location: Boulder

Re: Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby I Man » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:10 am

I have the same combination of crampons and boots and after having some issues on some serious routes, I have figured it out and agree with others that the BD Sabretooth and the LS Nepals are a PERFECT fit. I have no problem climbing ice or mountaineering with this combination.

The BD Sabretooths are just fine for ice climbing unless you climb at a really hard level. I can top rope in the WI4/5 range and Lead WI3 in the Sabretooths no problem. The Cyborgs have a slightly better system for front pointing, but I like the Sabretooths for overall mountaineering.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

"I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.

User avatar
Posts: 385
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 9:35 pm
Location: Wheat Ridge, CO

Re: Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby schrund » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:17 am

Have you looked into adding toe bails to those crampons? Can't tell from the photo but it looks like that might be an option?
We did not think of the great open plains, the beautiful rolling hills, and winding streams... as "wild". Only to the white man was nature a "wilderness".
-Luther Standing Bear, Oglala Chief

User avatar
Posts: 201
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 2:42 pm
Location: Cascade, CO

Re: Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby shearmodulus » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:59 am

Or using the extender bar? I have the BD Sabertooth's and use them for general mountaineering with my Trango Alps, but they were too short for my Spantiks (I wear a 46.5). I ordered the BD extender bar and bought a set of Petzl Sarkens for steeper climbs that need more front pointing ability.
"Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads...."

User avatar
Posts: 49
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 1:48 pm
Location: Erie, CO

Re: Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby mtn114 » Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:18 pm

I have 48's so ya, I already have the long bar/extender bar. The crampons are obviously clip style; I've never heard of putting the front bale on them; I'll look it up.

Mostly I was concerned about the metal tabs in the back not contacting the boot heel and how far forward the front of the boot seemed to be relative to the front and secondary points. I suspected this was a popular boot/crampon combination though and I'm glad to hear it worked for others.
I see no reason
why our dear Baron's wisdom
should ever be forgot.
Continuing to spread his wisdom on:
Rock Climbing, Climbing Shoes, Rappelling, Layering, Eddie Bauer (nice try), Pants, Helmets, Ropes, Ice Axes, Tri-Cams, Carabiners

User avatar
Posts: 265
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 5:52 pm
Location: Wisconsin

Re: Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby herdbull » Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:39 pm

I have the same combination in size 42 that I bought a few months ago and your second picture was what worried me a bit. I had the same problem. The Evo's are so darn narrow I can't them to contact the rear of the pon. They lock down super tight though and after 15+ hours in them I haven't noticed any movement. I haven't done any ice climbing in them though.

This is a pretty killer combination and I'd give it a shot first before jumping on some new ones. I moved the rear attachment arm to the rear slots which moved the boot farther rearward as well. It might help in the rear of the boot making contact with the tabs.

User avatar
Posts: 310
Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:51 pm
Location: Cumming, GA

Re: Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby cushman » Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:58 am

An important aspect of crampon fit for vertical ice is the position of the secondary points. You should fit your crampons to your boots so when your heel is horizontal or slightly dropped the secondary points will engage the ice to provide a secure platform to stand on. Think about the physics of this:

1. more points = less chance of a point shearing out of the ice
2. with the secondary points engaged, the pivot point of the crampon is farther back on the toe making it slightly easier to stand on

Here's a comparison of the BD Sabretooth crampons (without a toe bail) with some BD Bionics which are predecessors of the BD Cyborgs. You can see that the Bionics have secondary points that stick out slightly more than the Sabretooths. Additionally, the Bionics have a toe bail adjustment where you can move the toe bail forwards or backwards depending on the fit of the boot. A finer adjustment can also be made by bending the toe bail.
points1.jpg
points1.jpg (161.31 KiB) Viewed 334 times

One option would be to buy a toe bail from BD to fit to the Sabretooths. The new stainless Sabretooths come with the attachment points for a wire toe bail already, although you would have to drill out the rivet on the existing soft toe bail and then replace it with a suitable bolt combination if you were to re-attach it again. It looks like Black Diamond has these parts in stock on their website, and the toe bails cost $10, but they are out of stock. If you live in a location where ice climbing gear is readily available you may be able to find these at a local shop. I know that Ouray Mountain Sports has a large amount of spare parts for ice climbing gear.
points_sabretooth.jpg
points_sabretooth.jpg (172.03 KiB) Viewed 334 times

The second option would be to buy a set of vertical ice crampons like the BD Cyborgs. This is my preferred choice because then you get the advantage of switching between mono and dual points depending on the conditions, and you also have a set of crampons dedicated for couloirs and then one for vertical (both which can be used in a pinch for either).
points_bionic.jpg
points_bionic.jpg (199.67 KiB) Viewed 334 times
Fourteener? I hardly knew her!
Mark Cushman

User avatar
Posts: 2145
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 8:16 am
Location: Broomfield, Colorado

Re: Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby d_baker » Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:22 pm

^ Welcome back from the MIA list. Hope to see you post more often.

User avatar
Posts: 163
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:55 am
Location: Arvada

Re: Fitting a BD sabretooth to a LS Nepal

Postby ebnhils » Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:57 am

I have the sabretooth and cyborg crampons, had the same concern on the rear of the boot. Once I got the front points set on the boots where I wanted them I took a hammer to the tabs and bent them in to tighten the fit. Also I noticed the crampon would slip side to side on ice giving me an unsecure feeling so I replaced the front bails with the ones from the BD stinger's, this helped tighten the front. I got them from Ouray Mountain Sports for $8.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests