Combination Route

This route involves difficult, exposed Class 4 climbing, and a fall on the final pitch would almost certainly be fatal. Unless you've climbed numerous Class 3 and 4 routes and are comfortable with exposed terrain, climbing the Crestones separately via their standard routes is likely a safer option. On the crux wall below the Needle's summit, keeping the difficulty below Class 5 requires careful route-finding, and the exposure is significant. If you get the heebie-jeebies from exposure, the wall might make you cry or crap your pants.

Take Colorado 69 south from Westcliffe. Drive 4.5 miles and turn right on Colfax Lane. Drive 5.5 miles to the end of Colfax. Turn right and drive 1 mile on a dirt road to a junction. Continue straight up the 120 Road for 0.3 mile to the Lower 2WD Trailhead at 8,800'. To reach the Upper 4WD Trailhead, continue 2.7 miles to parking/camp spots before a river crossing, near 9,950'. Note that in 2009, the South Colony Lakes road was permanently closed at this point (with a gate), and the official trailhead was established here. The trail begins next to the trailhead kiosk located in the main parking area.

The following route is described from Peak-to-Needle, as most climbers approach it in this direction and typically climb it without the use of rope. However, it can be climbed in reverse, with the route beginning with a rappel down the crux wall, which is highly recommended.

Taken from west of Cottonwood Lake,  1 shows an overview of the traverse. Begin by following Crestone Peak's South Face Route to reach the summit of Crestone Peak. Descend the same route until reaching approximately 13,650'. On the east side of the gully, find cairn(s) on angled rocks just outside the gully  2. Locating this entry to the traverse is crucial as it leads to the easiest path across. Scramble east out of the red gully onto slightly easier terrain, descending a bit to begin the traverse  3  4. Look for cairns and avoid climbing higher until necessary. After descending briefly and encountering a few ups and downs, reach an obvious rock rib  5. Follow cairns and climb 100 feet of easy terrain to a break in the rib.

On the rib, look down at a red-colored rock gully. This red gully , distinct from the one leading to Crestone Peak, marks the halfway point of the traverse. Look across to spot your next obstacle: another rock rib  6. Descend 150 feet into the gully and cross it to reach a rubble-filled chute  7  8. Cairns will guide you to the base of this chute, which features angled slabs on its right side. Climb about 150 feet in this chute until it transitions into large rocks at its center. Stay to the left where the gully becomes more defined for another 100 feet  9. Continue to the top of the gully and through a break in the rock rib around 13,700'. From here, you'll see another rock rib  10. Descend slightly and hike over it  11, at which point the view changes significantly  12. The first two-thirds of the traverse, with its zigzag pattern, ends here, and the next section deals with the challenges below the Needle's summit.

Identify the prominent Black Gendarme , which rises from a low point in the ridge  13. Without losing too much elevation, traverse beneath the Black Gendarme and locate a steep, narrow gully on the east side of the gendarme  14. This gully includes the "bulge," the route's most technically difficult spot (Class 5.2). Continue below the Black Gendarme until reaching the base of another gendarme. Turn left and ascend to the bulge  15  16. Many climbers struggle with these initial moves and may look to bypass to the left, but this alternative increases the exposure. Take your time, find holds on the bulge and to the left, and proceed  17. Past the bulge, continue up the steep gully  18 to a wall. Angle right and climb onto this wall, which narrows into a short knife-edge ridge. Traverse this exposed 10-foot section to reach stable ground on the opposite side  19  20. Next, climb onto a jumble of rocks  21 and scramble higher until the route opens up. From here, you'll see much of the remaining route. Locate cairns and aim for the white rock visible in  22. Descend slightly, cross to this white rock area, and ascend to another small gully  23. Climb about 100 feet until you're just below the ridge crest. Turn right to follow a ledge  24 leading to a flat spot  25. Turn left here and climb a bit higher to reach the final pitch  26.

This is the infamous, Class 4 crux wall, where a fall would likely be fatal. If the rock is dry and the winds aren't howling, choose your line and begin climbing  27. Swing slightly left toward the ridge crest, as it generally has better holds and is the easiest line  28  29  30  31  32. Near the top, you'll find easier climbing and possibly a rappel station  33. Finish with a short scramble to the summit of Crestone Needle  34. Descend using the Needle's standard South Face Route.

IMPORTANT: This route enters the Sangre De Cristo Wilderness area. Designated wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.