This is one of the best snow routes on Mt. Blue Sky but should only be climbed when it has full snow coverage. From Summit Lake, the summit and north face are clearly visible to the south -
1. The route ascends through complicated terrain, so take some time to study the face and locate the couloir on the left side of this face -
2. It ascends this steep couloir to reach a "shelf" which provides access to the summit ridge.
From the parking area, walk south to the east end of Summit Lake -
3. Leave the road and hike southwest to the base of a broad slope. Climb 500' up this slope (
4) to reach a small bowl below the North Face -
5. Again, study the terrain ahead so you know the exact location of the couloir -
6. If you haven't already turned on your beacon and strapped on the crampons, this is a good place to do it. Bypass the bowl on the left and then traverse right toward the north face -
7. After passing beneath cliffs and rocks, turn left and begin climbing steeper terrain below the entrance to the couloir -
8. Continue above 13,700' to reach the more-defined couloir -
9.
Above 13,800', the couloir narrows and there are rocks towering over each side -
10. Keep climbing toward what appears to be a dead-end above -
11. At the top of the couloir, the terrain opens up a bit and becomes a bit steeper -
12. Turn right and climb steep snow to reach the exit and easier terrain -
13 and
14. Move to the right a bit more, turn left, and continue up to a saddle on the summit ridge -
15,
16 and
17. Turn left (east), walk over to the summit trail and ascend the final 100 feet to reach the summit -
18. If you're hiking, you can return to Summit Lake via the West Ridge route, over 13er Mt. Spalding.