- Drive to the town of Gardner, northwest of Walsenburg on Colorado 69.
- From Gardner, head west for about 1/2 mile on CO 69 and turn west on the road to Mosca Pass. There should be brown Forest Service signs on CO 69 indicating the turn.
- Just after the start of this road, a Forest Service sign states "Upper Huerfano - 21.5" and "Lily Lake Trhd - 22.5".
- After 7.0 miles the road turns to dirt.
- Continue 4.8 miles to a junction and stay left on Forest Road 580.
- Drive 3.4 miles and enter private property where a "Forest Access" sign reads "Upper Huerfano - 5.3 mi."
- Continue 0.5 mile and stay left at the entrance to the Singing River ranch. The road becomes rough, narrow, but still 2WD.
- Continue 0.9 mile and pass the entrance to the Aspen River ranch. The road becomes more difficult.
- Drive 3.4 miles to enter the San Isabel National Forest.
- Drive 0.8 mile and pass a small sign for the Huerfano and Zapata trails.
- Drive 1 more mile to the end of the road at the Lily Lake TH.
First, follow Mt. Lindsey Route #1 to the 13,150-foot saddle between Iron Nipple and Mt. Lindsey. From the saddle, the northwest ridge is in full view and may look intimidating to some. More than 1/2 way up the ridge a crux wall makes this route more difficult than the standard, north face route - Photo #1 and Photo #2. Finding a Class 3 line around the crux is possible but many climbers simply take a direct, Class 4 line up the brief pitch.
Hike southeast along the ridge on a small trail and near 13,200‘, where the trail turns east toward the north face, stay right and continue up the northwest ridge - Photo #3. As you climb higher, the terrain becomes more rugged and requires some Class 3 scrambling, especially on the ridge crest - Photo #4. As you scramble toward the crux wall (Photo #5), it‘s clear that the route is becoming more serious. Scramble across a steep area below the ridge crest, down to a notch and up to the base of the crux wall. Photo #6 and Photo #7 were taken in this area and show some of the rugged terrain features.
Photo #8 is a head-on view of the crux wall, showing several options. One way to keep the difficulty at (exposed) Class 3 is to bypass the wall on the left side. If you choose this option, regain the ridge right after the crux wall to avoid loose terrain. If you‘re comfortable with brief Class 4 climbing, the best option may be just left of the large, vertical crack in the center of the wall - Photo #9. Carefully pick your line and regain the ridge on easier terrain - Photo #10.
Above the crux, continue up the ridge - Photo #11 and Photo #12. As you ascend, the standard route is directly below, so be careful not to tumble rocks off the ridge - Photo #13. Continue to the 14,000-foot false summit on the northwest end of the summit ridge - Photo #14. Hike southeast for nearly 0.2 to reach the summit - Photo #15. Taken from back at the 13,150-foot saddle, Photo #16 is another look at the ridge.
The route is much more stable than the standard, gully route.
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.