Anyone following the winter action on K2?

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Scott P
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by Scott P » Fri Jan 15, 2021 2:34 pm

timewarp01 wrote:
Fri Jan 15, 2021 1:21 pm
I can't imagine what it's like to face that hanging serac in the middle of the night during winter.
I'd imagine that the serac would be pretty stable in winter. Of course the rest of the dangers would be greater in winter.
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by RobLowe » Fri Jan 15, 2021 2:50 pm

Scott P wrote:
Fri Jan 15, 2021 8:00 am
CaptCO wrote:
Fri Jan 15, 2021 7:30 am
Credit: Nims
Breaking records :)
Not broken, but tied. That altitude was reached in 2018. If they get above camp 4, then the record will be broken.

I wish them safety and luck.
Wrong.

2018 elevation at turnaround was “around” 7600M. 2019 elevation before turnaround was 7634M. They established lines up to 7800M.
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by Scott P » Fri Jan 15, 2021 11:29 pm

RobLowe wrote:
Fri Jan 15, 2021 2:50 pm
Scott P wrote:
Fri Jan 15, 2021 8:00 am
CaptCO wrote:
Fri Jan 15, 2021 7:30 am
Credit: Nims
Breaking records :)
Not broken, but tied. That altitude was reached in 2018. If they get above camp 4, then the record will be broken.

I wish them safety and luck.
Wrong.

2018 elevation at turnaround was “around” 7600M. 2019 elevation before turnaround was 7634M. They established lines up to 7800M.
It appears that you are correct. Strangely it was Nims own team who claimed that the record was matched (maybe a miscommunication).
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by Dayute » Sat Jan 16, 2021 6:19 am

"Around 5:00 pm on Saturday, January 16, 2021, the team of Sherpas and Nepalis stood on the summit of the world’s second-highest mountain, K2, on the border of Pakistan and China. They are positioning the summit as a victory for Nepal and the Sherpa nation. All ten climbers stopped 30-feet below the summit on a relatively safe spot (still on a 40-degree snow slope at 28,200-feet) so that they could summit together in a sign of solidarity. No individual was listed as first."

=D>
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by CaptCO » Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:07 am

Dayute wrote:
Sat Jan 16, 2021 6:19 am
"Around 5:00 pm on Saturday, January 16, 2021, the team of Sherpas and Nepalis stood on the summit of the world’s second-highest mountain, K2, on the border of Pakistan and China. They are positioning the summit as a victory for Nepal and the Sherpa nation. All ten climbers stopped 30-feet below the summit on a relatively safe spot (still on a 40-degree snow slope at 28,200-feet) so that they could summit together in a sign of solidarity. No individual was listed as first."

=D>
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by Scott P » Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:13 am

Congrats. Wishing everyone a safe descent.

5 PM summit in winter? Must have been a brutal descent.
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by CaptCO » Sat Jan 16, 2021 9:15 pm

Credit - Nims IG
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by CaptCO » Mon Jan 18, 2021 10:50 am

RIP to the Spanish climber that is tragic...

In other news Nims is confirmed to have summited WITHOUT the use of o2. Boo-yah x2 what a legend
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by kushrocks » Mon Jan 18, 2021 12:11 pm

I'll be honest I wasn't super stoked on this as much as I should have been when it was summited because it sounded like everyone used oxygen which is still very impressive. But it is confirmed Nims seems to be the only one to get it WITHOUT oxygen in winter. My level of respect just skyrocketed through the ceiling.

They way they summited as a group was awesome as well. Well done everyone!
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by oliver303 » Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:05 pm

I enjoyed following this historic expedition the past few weeks. I do have a logistics question about 8000m mountaineering that I'm not finding an answer to online. Perhaps someone on here can help me out despite this being a question about peaks 2x the elevation of 14ers.

So the reports said that different groups fixed the rope lines on K2 this winter between the different camps with the Nepalese group fixing the camp 4 to summit ropes. My question is do these ropes just get left up on the mountain for later groups to use? Or are they taken down at some point? I'd imagine on K2 and Everest if the ropes were left in the death zone there would be a mess of damaged old ropes on the route. But it also seems like it would be difficult the coordinate their removal in such a challenging place with an unclear end of season date. Thanks in advance!
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by cottonmountaineering » Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:12 pm

oliver303 wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:05 pm
I enjoyed following this historic expedition the past few weeks. I do have a logistics question about 8000m mountaineering that I'm not finding an answer to online. Perhaps someone on here can help me out despite this being a question about peaks 2x the elevation of 14ers.

So the reports said that different groups fixed the rope lines on K2 this winter between the different camps with the Nepalese group fixing the camp 4 to summit ropes. My question is do these ropes just get left up on the mountain for later groups to use? Or are they taken down at some point? I'd imagine on K2 and Everest if the ropes were left in the death zone there would be a mess of damaged old ropes on the route. But it also seems like it would be difficult the coordinate their removal in such a challenging place with an unclear end of season date. Thanks in advance!
in the himalayas they use really cheap ~8 mil rope, similar to what you'd take water skiing. All of the rope is left there, however if ice screws are used those are sometimes taken on the way down. There is a mess of old ropes on all big mountain routes, the old ropes are useful in setting up the route for the next year, because you can grab a bundle of them and at least one should hold.
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