Anyone following the winter action on K2?

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oliver303
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by oliver303 » Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:57 pm

cottonmountaineering wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:12 pm
oliver303 wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:05 pm
I enjoyed following this historic expedition the past few weeks. I do have a logistics question about 8000m mountaineering that I'm not finding an answer to online. Perhaps someone on here can help me out despite this being a question about peaks 2x the elevation of 14ers.

So the reports said that different groups fixed the rope lines on K2 this winter between the different camps with the Nepalese group fixing the camp 4 to summit ropes. My question is do these ropes just get left up on the mountain for later groups to use? Or are they taken down at some point? I'd imagine on K2 and Everest if the ropes were left in the death zone there would be a mess of damaged old ropes on the route. But it also seems like it would be difficult the coordinate their removal in such a challenging place with an unclear end of season date. Thanks in advance!
in the himalayas they use really cheap ~8 mil rope, similar to what you'd take water skiing. All of the rope is left there, however if ice screws are used those are sometimes taken on the way down. There is a mess of old ropes on all big mountain routes, the old ropes are useful in setting up the route for the next year, because you can grab a bundle of them and at least one should hold.
Thanks for the answer cotton, I appreciate it. It also answered a side question I had about the cost of the thousands of feet of rope and anchors they used.
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by OldTrad » Mon Jan 18, 2021 6:40 pm

cottonmountaineering wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:12 pm
oliver303 wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:05 pm
I enjoyed following this historic expedition the past few weeks. I do have a logistics question about 8000m mountaineering that I'm not finding an answer to online. Perhaps someone on here can help me out despite this being a question about peaks 2x the elevation of 14ers.

So the reports said that different groups fixed the rope lines on K2 this winter between the different camps with the Nepalese group fixing the camp 4 to summit ropes. My question is do these ropes just get left up on the mountain for later groups to use? Or are they taken down at some point? I'd imagine on K2 and Everest if the ropes were left in the death zone there would be a mess of damaged old ropes on the route. But it also seems like it would be difficult the coordinate their removal in such a challenging place with an unclear end of season date. Thanks in advance!
in the himalayas they use really cheap ~8 mil rope, similar to what you'd take water skiing. All of the rope is left there, however if ice screws are used those are sometimes taken on the way down. There is a mess of old ropes on all big mountain routes, the old ropes are useful in setting up the route for the next year, because you can grab a bundle of them and at least one should hold.
Does grabbing the bundle of ropes invalidate the ascent, like for those who touch the rope(s) in the hourglass on LB? : :wink:
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by CaptCO » Mon Jan 18, 2021 6:41 pm

OldTrad wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 6:40 pm
cottonmountaineering wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:12 pm
oliver303 wrote:
Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:05 pm
I enjoyed following this historic expedition the past few weeks. I do have a logistics question about 8000m mountaineering that I'm not finding an answer to online. Perhaps someone on here can help me out despite this being a question about peaks 2x the elevation of 14ers.

So the reports said that different groups fixed the rope lines on K2 this winter between the different camps with the Nepalese group fixing the camp 4 to summit ropes. My question is do these ropes just get left up on the mountain for later groups to use? Or are they taken down at some point? I'd imagine on K2 and Everest if the ropes were left in the death zone there would be a mess of damaged old ropes on the route. But it also seems like it would be difficult the coordinate their removal in such a challenging place with an unclear end of season date. Thanks in advance!
in the himalayas they use really cheap ~8 mil rope, similar to what you'd take water skiing. All of the rope is left there, however if ice screws are used those are sometimes taken on the way down. There is a mess of old ropes on all big mountain routes, the old ropes are useful in setting up the route for the next year, because you can grab a bundle of them and at least one should hold.
Does grabbing the bundle of ropes invalidate the ascent, like for those who touch the rope(s) in the hourglass on LB? : :wink:
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by peter303 » Tue Jan 19, 2021 8:49 am

Long article about Sherpa & friends success:

https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/19/spor ... e=Homepage
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by CaptCO » Fri Feb 05, 2021 1:37 pm

RIP Atanas Skatov... leaves behind a 12 year old son & one great legacy
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by kushrocks » Fri Feb 05, 2021 3:43 pm

K2 winter attempts are not over. This needs a bump right now as climbers Ali Sadparra a Pakistan legend along with John Sonorri attempted K2 over the last few days trying to be the second group ever to summit in winter. There was lots of misinformation and preemptive congratulations due to Sonorri's spot going all over the place and his wife thinking it looked like they the summit but so far nothing is confirmed. All their radios and ways of communication have failed due to the cold. They have not been heard from for close to 16 hours and sun is just about to rise with really high deadly winds increasing every hour. Ali Sadparra's son who turned around is in Camp 3 waiting to hear the fate of his father. It is currently around -50f with -76f wind chills and winds increasing to near -90 to -100 wind chills. They need to get down fast.



Also Athanas Scotov with 11 8000 meter peaks summit died in a fall near camp 3 sometime in the last 24 hours. His body was recovered at 5500 meteres meaning he fell around 5 or 6000 feet. RIP
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by osprey » Fri Feb 05, 2021 4:11 pm

Colon O'Brady returned to basecamp yeaterday after a failed summit attempt.
There is no mention of Dr. Jon.
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by highpilgrim » Fri Feb 05, 2021 4:16 pm

osprey wrote:
Fri Feb 05, 2021 4:11 pm
There is no mention of Dr. Jon.
Last seen rolling rocks down the bottleneck.
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by weakenedwarrior » Fri Feb 05, 2021 4:22 pm

osprey wrote:
Fri Feb 05, 2021 4:11 pm
Colon O'Brady returned to basecamp yeaterday after a failed summit attempt.
There is no mention of Dr. Jon.
He returned to BC a couple of days ago while the other SST climbers were on their way to Camp 2.
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by I Man » Sat Feb 06, 2021 7:22 am

kushrocks wrote:
Fri Feb 05, 2021 3:43 pm
K2 winter attempts are not over. This needs a bump right now as climbers Ali Sadparra a Pakistan legend along with John Sonorri attempted K2 over the last few days trying to be the second group ever to summit in winter. There was lots of misinformation and preemptive congratulations due to Sonorri's spot going all over the place and his wife thinking it looked like they the summit but so far nothing is confirmed. All their radios and ways of communication have failed due to the cold. They have not been heard from for close to 16 hours and sun is just about to rise with really high deadly winds increasing every hour. Ali Sadparra's son who turned around is in Camp 3 waiting to hear the fate of his father. It is currently around -50f with -76f wind chills and winds increasing to near -90 to -100 wind chills. They need to get down fast.



Also Athanas Scotov with 11 8000 meter peaks summit died in a fall near camp 3 sometime in the last 24 hours. His body was recovered at 5500 meteres meaning he fell around 5 or 6000 feet. RIP
No news going into the 2nd night for Ali Sadpara and team. Not looking good, very sad. Ali is an amazing climber and all around guy. Below is a photo of him on his way to Camp 3 on Broad peak, around 7,100m on one of our acclimitization rounds in July 2017.
Ali is a professional climber, having climbed all 5 of Pakistan's 8000m peak, including making the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016. He has also climbed Manaslu and Everest. If anyone can make it down from K2 in winter, it's Ali...hoping for the best
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by CaptCO » Sat Feb 06, 2021 7:57 am

:/

-dawa

Sajid now at base camp awaiting his fathers return..
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Re: Anyone following the winter action on K2?

Post by CaptCO » Sun Feb 07, 2021 6:59 am

No sign of the climbers.. absolutely devastating. High res pictures taken back to Skardu for scanning
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