Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

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Scott P
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by Scott P » Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:59 pm

NathanRL wrote:
Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:29 pm
If you went from Wilson to Gladstone, would it be an interesting climb up? Or too loose for the climbing crowd?
I would think that all routes in that area would be loose. Good luck finding anyone who has climbed the route and can answer the first question though. I doubt it has seen many ascents. Mountain Project (erroneously) says that route is unclimbed and the fact that no climbers seem to have taken the author to task for that statement seems to indicate that finding beta would be tough at best.

If it was one of George Bell's early 70's routes then my guess would be that it is loose and insane. All his other routes from that time period seem to be at least.

Maybe ask Monster5. If anyone on this site knows someone who has climbed that ridge, it would be him.
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by DaveLanders » Tue Jan 12, 2021 11:25 pm

handonbroward wrote:
Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:14 pm
DaveLanders wrote:
Tue Jan 12, 2021 8:17 pm
The ridge was done in 1971 by George Bell. He also did the first ascent of Sunlight Spire, and was on the 1953 K2 expedition.
Is there an existing trip report from that 1971 effort anywhere?
Bell's ascent is referenced in Bueler's "Roof of the Rockies" and in Rosebrough's San Juans guide, but neither one of them says where the info came from. I would start with Trail and Timberline or the American Alpine Journal
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by justiner » Wed Jan 13, 2021 12:01 am

I remember a T&T story of at least the FFA by Charlie Fowler, I'll try to dig it up,
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by justiner » Wed Jan 13, 2021 12:06 am

From,

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/1 ... -hellinger
107771190_large_1494210426.jpg
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by Hiking_TheRockies » Wed Jan 13, 2021 7:44 am

We could install a zipline. Would only be a one way trip, though.

Thanks you all for answering my question! Maybe I'll try the route at some point in the future.
Last edited by Hiking_TheRockies on Wed Jan 13, 2021 3:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by geojed » Wed Jan 13, 2021 7:58 am

Did Wilson - Gladstone and descended from Gladstone down to glacier. The ridge from Wilson to Gladstone wasn't bad at all. Just stay on crest or within 20' and the rock is pretty solid. I don't remember that gully down from Gladstone being too bad. I have several pictures of it in this Trip Report: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=14273
Was really tempted to go for Mt Wilson - El Diente as well since I still had a good amount of daylight left but storms were forming. Glad I didn't since they hit an hour later.
Here's a picture of Gladstone's W face with descent gully and cliff.
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by cedica » Wed Jan 13, 2021 9:39 am

There are some pictures in this report, along with interesting rating system, but direction of traverse was from Peak to Diente:
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=15549
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by justiner » Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:31 am

But Jed, you're an animal! That gully is at least 3 Jed-points.
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by stephakett » Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:34 am

justiner wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:31 am
But Jed, you're an animal! That gully is at least 3 Jed-points.
can i get a mere mortal's comparison for a single jed-point?
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Re: Mt. Wilson-Gladstone ridge

Post by d_baker » Wed Jan 13, 2021 12:05 pm

stephakett wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:34 am
justiner wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:31 am
But Jed, you're an animal! That gully is at least 3 Jed-points.
can i get a mere mortal's comparison for a single jed-point?
His real name is Jedi.
Not sure there can be a mere mortal comparison.

Would like to see that Jed(i)-point scale though.
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